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Zachys Icons of Italy Tasting

Zachys

Tasted September 19, 2006 by trankin with 1,235 views

Introduction

Zachys put on a nice Italian tasting tonight. I was fortunate enough to be able to attend both the main tasting and a pre-tasting event with Antonio Galloni where I was able to enjoy some other wines with more time to contemplate them.

The first 4 flights are from the earlier tasting. In most cases, I didn't bother rating the wines - they were just too young and tannic for me to be able to get a really good read on them. I have to say I was a bit disappointed in the showing of the older vintages. To a one, they came across older than they should have IMO.

The last three "flights" I organized based on the table layout at Zachys. Take these all with a big grain of salt. Not only did they follow the prior 4 flights, but they were very small pours and quick tastes with some brief notes jotted down.

Flight 1 - The first flight (3 notes)

A treat to try these wines, but they're all so young they're difficult to call. My understanding is they were opened but not decanted at 11am for a 5pm tasting.

Red

2000 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Gorgeous, ethereal nose. Elegant red fruit and limestone, with a touch of cinnamon or nutmeg.

On the palate, this is a tannic monster. Everything is in perfect balance and harmony, with the striking exception of the tannins. Beautiful aromatics, great bright red fruit, a touch of cedar, some great acids. Needs many, many years. Probably would give this a low-90's score based on this showing but given how young it is I have difficulty knowing.

Comment

Red

1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

A less pronounced nose than the Monprivato. Some alcohol, some good fruit, a bit of tree bark. Over the 20-30 mins or so, the nose improved and became a bit more perfumy. On the palate, lots of fruit, with a touch of something sweet - some cherry maby. Loads of tannin (although less than the Monprivato). Almost rounded yet somehow not. Needs a decade or more. Probably a low-90's score based on this showing but it's too young to know.

Comment

Red

1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Nose is bigger again, though not as big or beautiful as the Monprivato. More fruit, more power. A strong dark red fruit on the nose with just a touch of spice. On the palate, this is the most approachable of the 3. Great big strawberries, cedar. Lovely elegant wine with loads of acids and fruit. Needs at least 5-10 years, has alot longer than that to go. AG suggested the 99 of this would be very similar to the 78. Based on this showing, probably a low- to mid-90's score but this is too young to evaluate IMO.

Comment

Flight 2 - Second Flight (3 notes)

Now we're getting to some really interesting stuff. These were at least beginnig to be approachable. The Rocca e La Pira I'm very glad I have a few bottles to go through in the next couple decades.

Red

1996 Roagna Barolo Riserva La Rocca e La Pira Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Nose of leather, dark red fruit, and subtle spices. This is very dark red, apparently a result of the cool vintage. On the palate, this is drinking with big, but not oppressive tannins. The fruit has taken over at this point and is maybe even a touch too much. To my taste, this should come together beautifully with an appropriate balance and harmony of tannins, fruit, acids, etc in about 5-10 years and will be very elegant then. Darker fruits, earth, some structural tannins, tobacco, dark strawberries, leather. A beautifully constructed wine. Probably low- to mid-90's for this.

Comment

Red

1997 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Only the 3rd vintage this wine was made. The nose is big acidic fruit, with some forest floor. The palate is totally different. Bright red, and sweeter. Cherries, strawberries. Lots of dark earth hidden under the fruit. This is beginning to come out of its shell but still needs time. Lovely balance, except the acids are still a bit overpowering (at least without food).

Comment

Red

1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Nose of light red fruits - cherries - and a little white pepper. On the palate, it's gorgeous pure fruit with acids, tannins and not alot else at this point. The purity of the fruit is really just wonderful, and there is a touch of darkness underneath - but will this evolve into something sufficiently complex to be great? Quite round for a young nebbiolo. Drinking reasonably well, but will clearly improve with time. I've only had one other wine with purity of fruit this striking - very intriguing, but I really don't know how it will shape up over time.

Comment

Flight 3 - Third Flight (3 notes)

I expected more from these wines. I did like the Cascina Francia quite a bit, but I'm really hoping the bottle I have for an off-line in a few weeks shows even better - or at least younger.

Red

1997 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

92 points

Lush, earthy nose. Quite approachable. Great round fruit, with some wonderful structure underneath. The tannins are integrated and softer. 92+

Comment

Red

1990 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

91 points

Dirt and sous-bois on the nose. On the palate, an elegant caramel and old fruit, with some earth. Candied fruits. Figs. Im amazed the fruit is as weak and old-tasting as it is. If I were to guess, I'd guess this is an 82 or older. Very nice, but not a truly great wine. I suspect this wine had less than perfect storage conditions, which is disappointing given the tasting.

Comment

Red

1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

93 points

Quite an earthy nose, with a touch of barnyard. On the palate, it's soft, full, earthy, and luscious. AG pointed out and iron-like, meaty element, which he was spot on. This bottle was well into its maturity window, but not yet fully mature. Will go 5-10 years more based on this bottle. Like the 90 Giacosa I think this bottle had less than optimal storage conditions and suffered from premature maturity as a result. I'll find out in a few weeks when I pop another bottle. Still, a really nice wine and I'm glad I have one to open soon.

Comment

Flight 4 - Flight Four (2 notes)

The Rinaldi was nice, but past prime, the Gaja was way over the hill IMO.

Red

1967 Francesco Rinaldi e Figli Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

89 points

Earthy, forest floor on the nose. A touch of funk as well. On the palate, this is a smooth, gentle wine. Round and elegant, with caramel, fruit, and cola. Holding together but definitely time to drink up based on this bottle. I wouldn't be surprised if there are bottles showing better than this, based on the condition of some of the wines tonight. I suspect this bottle would have been much better 5 years ago.

Comment

Red

1971 Gaja Barbaresco Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

This is thin and brown. Gradually becomes a darker brown. like a nut. Very caramel, not alot of fruit. This bottle is over the hill. NR

Comment

Flight 5 - Table 1 (1 note)

I only tried a single glass from table one. Meant to go back for a couple 01 barolos but never made it.

White - Sparkling

N.V. Charles Ellner Champagne Grande Réserve Brut France, Champagne

89 points

Lovely fruit, slightly sweet, with a nice full texture.

Comment

Flight 6 - Table 2 (8 notes)

Tried most of the wines at this table. The Roagna Nebbiolo was my clear QPR winner of the night And the 01 Cascina Francia was just a joy and my WOTN.

What I find most amazing is how well the CF was able to show tonight, poured straight from the bottle (I believe) while so many other wines were so incredibly tight and even closed down. That CF is clearly going to be a wonderful wine though. Picked up a 6-pack!

Red

2004 Fattoria Le Pupille (Elisabetta Geppetti) Morellino di Scansano Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Morellino di Scansano

88 points

Huge fruity nose. Very round, lots of fruit. Easy to drink.

Comment

Red

1998 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Too oaky and modern for my palate.

Comment

Red

2001 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

91 points

Thick red fruit, silky and smooth. Very nice, lengthy finish. Could use a few years.

Comment

Red

2001 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

93 points

Very very nice, very rich. Chocolate, licorice. Great finish. Needs time. Really nice. 93+

Comment

Red

2001 Roagna Langhe Rosso Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

Nice, easy drinking wine. Some structure, great red fruit. Has a few years to run, but doesn't need it. Great quaffer and QPR.

Comment

Red

1997 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Langhe Status Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

89 points

The nose is muted by the champagne I just had still lingering in the glass. Thick, intense fruit, some herbs. Needs 5 years. 89-90

Comment

Red

1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Villero Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

Muted nose. Still tight, but well made and very nice.

Comment

Red

2001 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

95 points

WOW! Beautiful, sexy elegant wine in total harmony. will drink well and improve for a very long time. Amazing how much this out-shined everything else of a similar age. 95+

Comment

Flight 7 - Table 3 (10 notes)

Some nice stuff on this table. I was a bit disappointed in the Brunello's, excluding the Pertimali. I thought the Bartolo Mascarello 01 was just gorgeous stuff, but then I followed that up with the Santo Stefano and the Gaja SSL. I'd take the Bartolo over the Santo Stefano (at least at this point) but the SSL would take precedence if I didn't care about the price. $ for $, the Bartolo has the others hands down.

Red

2000 Giovanni Manzone Barolo Bricat Le Gramolere Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

93 points

Nice, floral nose. Really nice, well built. Could use time but drinking pretty well now.

Comment

Red

2001 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

89 points

Huge fruit, a little sweet. Not enough structure but a nice drink.

Comment

Red

2001 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

93 points

Lovely, full wine with some earth and soft tannins.

Comment

Red

2001 Enzo Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

flawed

Not much nose. A bit sweet and tannic. An off bottle?

Comment

Red

2001 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

94 points

Light in color. Goregeous fruit, great structure, lovely wine. 94++ will definitely improve with time

Comment

Red

2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

94 points

Serious mushroom and tannins on this wine. Great structure but a lovely package as well.

Comment

Red

2001 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì San Lorenzo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

Awesome nose, loads of stuffing. Needs alot of years. Clearly better than the Bartolo I just had, but also clearly not worth the extra $.

Comment

Red

1997 Giuseppe Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico Superiore

89 points

Huge fruit, well made, nice but not great wine.

Comment

Red

1997 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia

95 points

Young and tannic, but gorgeous.

Comment

Red

1988 Antinori Tignanello Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

Beautiful big nose. Lovely round integrated tannins. Harmonious.

Comment

Closing

A very nice night. Got to run into a few others from this BB. Met Antonio Galloni. Drank some good wines. What more could I want?

Zachys Icons of Italy Tasting

Zachys

Introduction

Flight 1 - The first flight (3 notes)

Flight 2 - Second Flight (3 notes)

Flight 3 - Third Flight (3 notes)

Flight 4 - Flight Four (2 notes)

Flight 5 - Table 1 (1 note)

Flight 6 - Table 2 (8 notes)

Flight 7 - Table 3 (10 notes)

Closing

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