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An Offline for Luke

28-50, London

Tasted May 8, 2012 by SimonG with 544 views

Introduction

A few of us gathered to wish Luke well following his departure from The Ledbury and to thank him for his patience and good-humoured professionalism in the face of a multitude of WIMPS, offlines and private dinners...

Flight 1 (1 note)

White
1946 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
75 points
Deep, slightly dull gold. Very full, pungent nose. Oaty, appley. Quite spritzy on the attack, an astringency too. Grabs one by the throat. Lots of freshly cut green apple, and a slightly cider vinegar note too, through the middle and finish. Not much weight/development/complexity through the middle. Searing acidity. Hmm 50 years too late or just not my thing? * for historical interest.

Flight 2 (4 notes)

White
2004 La Granja Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
91 points
Pale gold to mid straw. Nicely interesting nose. Slightly waxy lanolin. Very clean, quitecomplex and long. Good line and length. ****
White
2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
flawed
Fairly advanced colour. Adelhydic nose. Not as badly gone as it could (and will) be, but just off the top of the cliff and starting its freefall. A replacement 04 has more of the same.
White
2004 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
flawed
Opened to replace an oxidising 02. Even further off the cliff.
White
1999 Tyrrell's Sémillon Vat 1 Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley
89 points
Pale straw with a slightly lemony tint. Lemony on the attack too. Linear and elegant with really quite prominent acidity. Needs to calm down a bit - a slightly gawky teenager but I think there's something here. **(*)

Flight 3 (3 notes)

Red
2000 Felton Road Pinot Noir Block 3 New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
91 points
Nicely maturing, mellow nose. A touch of sweet fruit with some caramel and sous bois. Cherry fruit poking through. Wet hedgerow too. Proper! Lovely attack, a little light on the finish cf the attack but this is very nice indeed. Sweet-fruited and overall a very nice style. ****
Red
1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
92 points
Possibly a little reduced initially with a slightly rubbery nose, but this soon blows off. Nicely mineral, quite grippy, but there's a lacy elegance through the mid-palate to the finish. An edginess/nervosity here. Lovely but a little shy at this stage. ***(*) This has tightened up since last tasting in 09 and is showing far more class.
Red
1973 Berberana Rioja Reserva Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
91 points
Slightly caramel, orange peel and a little volatile initially. Proper old Rioja. Sweet fruit, long and lovely, but I do like this style of wine. ****

Flight 4 (4 notes)

Red
1999 Vérité La Muse USA, California, Sonoma County
92 points
Quite a plush, full nose. Ripe and rounded. Can't quite place it but a fairly complex and nuanced nose. Really lightens up with an hour or so of air to show really well and with plenty more in reserve. ***(*)
Red
1998 Mount Mary Quintet Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
92 points
Quite a redcurranty nose. Surprisingly bright red-fruited on the attack and across the mid-palate. Sweet redcurrant jelly through the finish. Surprising and really quite engaging. Pretty. Long, fresh and elegant. A different style to the Verité but just as engaging ****
Red
1986 Mount Mary Cabernets Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
88 points
Blackcurrant leaf nose. Cool and leafy. Slightly dusty even. Similar on palate. Cool, fresh, leafy blackcurrant, interesting and refreshing but no real depth or complexity. ***
Red
1990 Henschke Shiraz Hill of Grace Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
89 points
Wow, a very distinctive, slightly cool, minty mouthwash nose. Interesting, cool and quite complex but I keep coming back to the mintiness. Minty fresh attack with a nicely mellow dark red-fruited background but I can't get past the eucalyptus/mint thing. I wonder if this would I've been better in a different shaped glass? (ie not burg). *** but more if this is your thing

Flight 5 (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
90 points
Fairly deep burnished old gold. Deep, quite dense barley sugar nose. Obviously sweet and ripe. Lots upfront but it lacks development and persistence through the mid-palate and finish. A bit too ripe really - needs some acidity to hold its line - doesn't liv up to its initial promise. ***1/2
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