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Alex's 'Top Burgundy' 2012

The Medlar, London

Tasted November 27, 2012 by SimonG with 616 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

Gougeres & Pig's head fritters

White - Sparkling
2002 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
92 points
Quite rich on the nose, nice depth. Positive attack, nicely mineral and with good depth. Opens up to a touch of honey. Mineral, long, interesting. ****

Flight 2 (3 notes)

Crab raviolo with samphire, brown shrimps, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce

White
2003 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
92 points
Mid to full straw. Full and a sense of fatness on the nose with a touch of aniseed lift. Fat in the glass, far richer and more viscous than the Chablis. Quite tight on the mid-palate initially, but this does open up nicely, more expansive and richer across the mid-palate. ****
White
1993 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Monts Mains France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
92 points
Mid gold. Quite expressive on the nose, richly mineral. Slightly iodine-scented. Quite rich and full. A sense of underlying tension. There's GC weight here. Minerally on the fairly long finish. ****
White
1983 Albert Pic Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
93 points
similar mid gold colour to the Raveneau. Nicely mature, slightly mushroom nose. Rich, rounded, nicely fresh with a good weight and length. Lovely. Rich, slightly leesey nose. Full and long and lovely and proper. ****

Flight 3 (3 notes)

Chargrilled english veal rump with violet artichokes, aubergine caviar, crisp brain, gremolata and roasting juices

Red
1994 Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
93 points
Ruby to deep garnet at the rim. Nicely expressive and fragrant on the nose, gamey red fruit, a touch of sous-bois. Quite bright and nicely focused on the attack. A gamey edge that transitions to a mineral, fresh mid-palate and finish. Good line. Mineral. A slight sweetness on the finish. After an hour or so, there's a good dollop of sweet herb- thyme coming through on the attack; really quite vibrant. ****
Red
1994 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
94 points
Higher toned with more lift and sweeter-fruited fragrance on the nose opening up to a more evolved, gamey edge. Rounded and fatter on the attack than the Faiveley Beze. Sweet fruit, quite lacy across the mid-palate, tightening up to a more mineral edge on the long finish. Long, expansive and silky. ****1/2
Red
2001 Domaine Francois Lamarche La Grande Rue France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Grande Rue Grand Cru
93 points
Denser, slightly tighter but still giving nose with a slightly sweet-cure bacon edge to the nose. Quite seductive. the bacon thing evolves to a more synthetic 'Frazzles' nose. Gorgeous! Tighter and more minerally on the palate, less open and showy than the nose. Wi a bit more air the Frazzles dissipates and moves to the edge and there's a core of deep cherry-scented fruit. Opens to a sweet-fruited silky to finely velvety. To be critical, lacks a bit of flair or excitement cf the Rousseau, but... ****

Flight 4 (3 notes)

Roast mallard with confit leg, buckwheat pancakes, beetroot, star anis and pear

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Vacherin, Epoisses, Brillat Savarin & 24 month Gruyere

Red
1998 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
92 points
Dense but also nicely lifted nose with a sweet-fruited core. Very ripe, rounded and quite fat on the palate, positive attack and beautifully rounded across the mid-palate. Dense, velvety and long with a bright cherry-led fruit. Still quite minerally with a bit of bite on the finish. ****
Red
1991 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
93 points
Lighter, lacier, silky red-fruited nose, with a slightly menthol edge to the nose. Slightly brighter and more vibrant red fruit than the Richebourg. I'm a few notes short here, and the glass is empty. Not a bad sign. ****
Red
1979 Louis Jadot Musigny France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
93 points
The glass from the bottom of the bottle a bit sludgy and muddy-nosed, but a generous snifter from Alex, half way up the bottle, purer and fresher with a slightly funky, meaty nose with a bit of floral lift. Sweet-fruited attack, rounded, long and persistent. Pretty, with proper lift, but there's a persistence to this and a fine line to the finish. The muddy glass still showing well, but seems older and less well defined. Picks up a bit in the glass and certainly shines, but I don't think this has quite the depth or persistence of some. That said, it's very pretty and pretty good. ****

Closing

Apart from the Swiss @ Ledbury last week (bar the almost poxy Leflave then) I'm not sure I can remember an offline where all the wines showed so consistently well. Stylistic differences, but quality and consistency. Bravo!

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