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Colares @ Aldea

NYC

Tasted December 18, 2013 by mdefreitas with 807 views

Introduction

A tasting of rare Colares direct from the winery. Put together by Vintry Fine Wines in NYC.

Flight 1 - FLIGHT 1 (3 notes)

White
1997 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Branco Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
95 points
An intriguing wine with a slightly oxidative character, much like a Jura white or a Lopez de Heredia white Rioja. If you can live with the slightly sherry note, this was a great wine with wonderful vibrancy. Great acidity, with a citric and salty sensation. Tangy and savory with superb length. Unique and enjoyable and very food friendly.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2006 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Genuino Branco Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
92 points
Vibrant wine with citrus, orange oil and a pithy note. A bit rounded and accessible compared to the 1997 and 2010, but this was indeed quite sharp and precise. Gets better with air.
White
2010 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Genuino Branco Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
93 points
These white Colares are so vibrant, and this one is no exception. A bit of a floral note here to go with the lemon and lime flavors. A hint of peach as well and a slight bread crust note in the finish. This was so pure and crystalline in texture. Complex, steely, electric and lengthy.

Flight 2 - FLIGHT 2 (3 notes)

Red
1996 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
93 points
A bit milky on the nose, with a very lifted, high-toned palate. Sour cherries, iron filings and rocks. Doesn't sound appealing, but this was fabulous. A bit of a saline edge to this wine, with a palate scraping finish. Hard and stoney in the best possible way.
Red
1997 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
92 points
A bit riper and more accessible than the 1996 version. Ripe, tart cranberry and crunchy minerals. Sharp cut with a whiplash finish that comes and goes in waves. Make no mistake, although more accessible than the 1996, this still has a stiff tannic spine and could use time in the cellar.
Red
1999 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
93 points
Very similar to the 1996 and 1997 in regards to the tart red fruit and mineral palate, but this also had a bit of a refreshing herbal note as well. Sharp and well defined. Burgundian, but with tannins.

Flight 3 - FLIGHT 3 (3 notes)

Red
1965 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
95 points
The color was surprisingly deep red. A bit of developed flavors here, like dried flowers and dried red fruits. Great minerality here, with some iron and gun metal notes. This was deep , earthy and lively. Juicy, mouth-watering finish.
Red
1967 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
flawed
Odd flavors; seemed TCA tainted. A second bottle was better, but it was sampled from the same glass, so not really able to accurately access.
Red
1969 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
95 points
This was flat out gorgeous. Still youthful and full of life. The fruit here is a bit more plump and fleshy than the other bottles, but this still has great precision and poise. Cherry fruits, rose petals a hint of anise and tar. Deep wine and quite velvety, given the super fine tannins. Almost Gevry-Chambertin-like.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 4 - FLIGHT 4 (3 notes)

Red
1931 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
93 points
Are you kidding me? The color here is dark red with a slight rust edge. Doesn't Romisco ever lose it's color? A bit more development here, with some mushroom, mint, forest floor and quinine notes, but the red fruit is still there. An odd rubber note detracted a bit, but this was very enjoyable, especially given its age.
Red
1934 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Velho Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
97 points
Just like the 1931, this was deep red in color with a slight rust rim. A bit more pure than the 1931 (no rubber note). Dried, tart red fruits, but lots of secondary notes of chestnut, iodine, antique wood and spice. Layered, complex and very lengthy. The tannins were fine and filigree. So much going on in this wine. It almost sounds crazy, but this could probably age more, given the deep color, quantity of fruit and still-clinging structure. My wine of the night.
1 person found this helpful Comments (3)
Red
2005 Viuva José Gomes da Silva & Filhos Colares Reserva Tinto Portugal, Lisboa, Colares
92 points
Similar to my previous note, except with the luxury of tasting this with bottlings over 80 years old, it had some citrus, orange zest character to it. A wine for rock-heads, with a high-toned, gravelly palate. So much freshness and lift here. Needs time; based on the older wines tasted this night.... LOTS of time.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

These wines seem immortal.

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