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Aeolian Sailing Trip & a bit of Etna
Eolian Islands
Tasted August 22, 2014 - August 31, 2014 by Papies with 684 views
Introduction
A great week of sailing and an opportunity to sample as many local wines. We avoided where possible chardonnays and foreign grapes.
In general we should have tried more reds but the heat of the summer was not really red wine friendly. Shame really as the reds we came across were far more interesting than the whites which many of them felt generic and lacked real character. We did of course come across some excellent Carricante and Grillo which are ones to look out for but the majority was pretty much ok wines, in no way memorable. With the exception of the Pietra Marina (Carricante) we would go away remembering the excellent pure reds of Tenuta della Terre Nere.
Small note on old vintages of white wines. Unless from a great source they are to be avoided as the Sicilian summer does not help them at all.
Flight 1 - To Begin (1 note)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Taittinger Prelude
91 points
By the glass at the BA lounge gatwick.
Once again a pretty soli, round and rich NV champagne . Similar in a way of richness and depth with the Bollinger grande cuvée . Toasty nose, rich yeasty profile, ripe fruit. solid structure and very enjoyable. 90-91
Once again a pretty soli, round and rich NV champagne . Similar in a way of richness and depth with the Bollinger grande cuvée . Toasty nose, rich yeasty profile, ripe fruit. solid structure and very enjoyable. 90-91
Flight 2 - La Siciliana, Catania - http://www.lasiciliana.it/ (1 note)
Old school classic but very good, traditional food.
Red
2005 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Duca Enrico
91 points
100% Nero D'Avola,maybe sees some old oak in its elevage. Quite open and feels ready to drink. We had 2 bottles both popped and poured and were very consistent. Open on the nose, light violet feel, dark fruits . Tannins are Firm yet on the round side. Good ripe fruit core yet not overripe and controlled on the extraction. Very good expression of the grape and very nice to drink now. 91
Flight 3 - Za Pippina, Santa Agata di Militello (1 note)
Good generic Tratoria but that's about it
White
2013 Corvo Grillo Irmana
86 points
Not a proper TN as we had this for lunch on a very hot day in Sicily. Well made wine but lacked depth is all we remember. Worth setting up in CT though.
Flight 4 - Filippino, Lipari - http://www.eolieexperience.it/it/home-filippino (2 notes)
A pretty good traditional and well run fish restaurant on top of Lipari. Very solid. Worth the walk up.
White
2009 Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore Pietramarina
92 points
Had 2 very consistent bottles. Very mineral, full of Etna, volcanic character, overplayed with citrus fruits, touch of green apple. This is a wine of character and quality, well made, pure and really enjoyable. No oak of course just pure volcanic, mineral wine. 92 and very good
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White
2010 Marco De Bartoli Zibibbo Pietranera
89 points
Quite an interesting wine, 11.5% alc and although it give a sweetish start it evolves into a waxy , light mineral side. Very specific wine. Quite a bit of ripe fruit, round and feels like it needs to be drunk sooner than later. 89
Flight 5 - Da Pina, Panarea - http://www.panareadapina.it/ristorante.asp (3 notes)
Seems like along with Raya this is the place to go for dinner. Very good.
White
2012 Marco De Bartoli Grillo Grappoli del Grillo
91 points
Pretty and pure wine, mineral, firm and with good depth. Green fruit, apple, lime and with a waxy feel to it . Has Chenin blanc "light bitterness" to it. 91 and well worth it.
White
2009 Marco De Bartoli I Bianchi "Sole e Vento" Grillo e Zibibbo
87 points
The addition of zibbibo here plus the age adds a sweet fruit core to the wine which throws it a bit off balance, the nose especially feels closer to a passito di panteleria rather than of a dry wine. Interesting but lacks structure. 87
White
2010 Benanti Etna Bianco Superiore Pietramarina
92 points
Once again this proves to be one of he better wines we have come across on this trip. Lovely minerality, green apple, limes. Good depth and complexity and a style that will stay with us for a long time. 92
Flight 6 - Capofaro, Salina - http://capofaro.it/en/restaurant-sicilian/ (2 notes)
Go early and catch the views, then enjoy a pretty solid dinner.
White
2013 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme Salina IGT
87 points
Dry Malvasia , aromatic, not sweet, could use some more acidity. Mineral.Green fruit, apple , short and drops away quickly. 2 second finish... 87
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Tasca D'Almerita Capofaro Malvasia di Salina
88 points
Aromatic, expressive wine, round rich but a touch on the too sweet.
Flight 7 - La Baya, Santa Agata di Militello (3 notes)
Ok tratoria by the sea, Wine list was good though
White
2012 Cottanera Etna Bianco
89 points
Quite ripe, green fruits, citrus mostly . Well made and with good palate presence. Some feel of oak here. Crowd pleasing wine but low on complexity.89
White
2012 Planeta Fiano Sicilia Cometa
90 points
Set aside their oaky monsters, planeta makes gems like this Cometa, full of volcanic character, mineral, pure wine. Pretty solid wine. 90
Red
2004 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Duca Enrico
91 points
Third vintage of this wine in the last few days and this was more the right type like the very good 2005(Papies 91) and away from the ribena feeling of the 2007(Papies 85). Good smoky character, nice ripe fruit but not overdone in any way. Very good. We wonder if they changed their winemaking post 2005 or if it's just how he wine feels when young. Both he 05 and this 04 though were very good wines. 91
Flight 8 - Monaci Delle Terre Nere, Etna - http://www.monacidelleterrenere.it/en/ (6 notes)
A true gen of a boutique hotel/ Agrotourismo on the foothills of Etna. Simply stunning location and very well run. Excellent wine list just a bonus!
Red
2012 Frank Cornelissen Munjebel MC
90 points
2012 Harvest, and with a label resembling sake...
natural wine, interesting, good open nose but really a touch too sweet ( has 4g of residual sugar apparently) and we didn't really get it. Interesting but that's about it. 90 for the novelty
natural wine, interesting, good open nose but really a touch too sweet ( has 4g of residual sugar apparently) and we didn't really get it. Interesting but that's about it. 90 for the novelty
Red
2000 Benanti Etna Serra della Contessa
91 points
Had two very consistent bottles of this wine, sourced by the producer by the Monaci della Terre Nere. A true crowd pleaser of a wine, well mature and round, open on the nose with rich dark fruits and light tobacco notes.However the use of oak here takes away from the character of the wine, mutes down the expression of the Nerello Mascalese and in a way makes it blunt and far away from that Burgundian character Etna reds can offer. A very good 91
Red
2006 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Guardiola
92 points
The wine starts with a lot of slap hour on the nose and needs quite a bit of aeration to get rid of that so we would suggest decanting for 30mins minimum. Post this though it develops into a very pure expression of Nerello Mascalese, smoky edge to it, Burgundian in a way but with a richer darker fruit side. Very good , elegant and with a long life ahead of it. 92
Red
2007 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso PrePhylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino
94 points
Needs decanting and we decanted for more than an hour. This is built for longevity and needs its time in bottle so even at this stage it is very young. Not austere but just like a proper Barolo it needs its time to deliver what it really can. Shy on the nose but still good dark fruits, light dark cherry. Quite deep, complex wine, pure and well made. Old vines of more than 115 yrs do add a depth to this. Very elegant and time will only help here.94
Red
2011 Masseria Setteporte Etna Rosso
92 points
Although young this shows a pure and fresh, vibrant side to Etna reds. Purity of Nerello Mascalese. Burgundian in so many ways or maybe baroloesque? Sometimes it reminded us of a well made, and by well we mean not overdone, new world Pinot .Vibrant dark fruit, firm tannin yet not angular and very giving even at this time. Drinks very nicely but will age for sure. One to look out but at like 50€ it's not really a cheap find. 92+
Red
2007 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito
92 points
Open from the pull of the cork. Very expressive and elegant. Has that smoky edge we saw in the quardiola, but has a rounder and richer side. Dark fruits, more Barolo than burgundy good length and complexity. Pretty solid wine and drinks very nicely now. Time is its friend too. 92+
Flight 9 - Dinners & Lunches during Sailing (28 notes)
White
2013 Graci Etna Bianco
88 points
70% Carricante, 30% catarratto. The nose is condrieu-esque, with a feel for banana and other exotic fruits. Definitely not expecting this! The palate continues in the same style, light on the acidity and more a round wine, on the rich side but with ought being overripe. Good but not great but that being said not bad for the price tag . Don't expect a mineral well defined we one from Etna though,more of a modernist expression here. 88
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White
2012 Planeta Carricante Sicilia Eruzione 1614
90 points
Carricante complimented with a bit of Riesling . Named for the legendary eruption of Etna in 1614 which lasted for 10yrs.
A mineral, well structured wine full of the volcanic feel, stony feel, complemented with a green apple profile.floral at times. Good acidity adds a structure and backbone. Nice well made and full of local character. Quite enjoyable and fresh. So much better from all the Chardonnays planeta makes.. 90-91
A mineral, well structured wine full of the volcanic feel, stony feel, complemented with a green apple profile.floral at times. Good acidity adds a structure and backbone. Nice well made and full of local character. Quite enjoyable and fresh. So much better from all the Chardonnays planeta makes.. 90-91
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White
2012 Marco De Bartoli Zibibbo Pietranera
90 points
Quite an interesting wine, 11.5% alc and although it give a sweetish start it evolves into a waxy , light mineral side. Very specific wine
White
2012 Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo
85 points
Not a full TN here unfortunately. From memory a good wine, well defined but not in any way memorable or complex. Good for summer drinking by the beach though. 85
Red
2007 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici
89 points
Still shows a bit of oak and the fruit is on the young side. Tannins are firm but on the round side, not harsh but still with a grip. It's a good wine for its price but that's it. Time would do it no harm. 89
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Red
2008 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi
85 points
Quite a young and fresh fruit profile, firm tannin. Made in a way to be enjoyed young and fresh. Good but not memorable and on the entry level side for this producer
Rosé
2013 Tasca D'Almerita Sicilia Le Rose di Regaleali
82 points
Thin and simple light, not confectionary, but with no real presence. Sort of flies away easily with no memory left behind. Not fake at least, and u get what u paid with ur 8 euros. 82
White
2012 Tenuta Di Castellaro Bianco Pomice
88 points
Quite of a ripe, dense waxy feel to it with a full core of fruit. Maybe a touch too much oak?88
White
2010 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro Bianco Guardiola
89 points
Very puzzled with this wine as it did not have the designation "Guardiola" on the label so not sure if its a local label or another white, a generic sicilia from Passopisciiaro... As no other white is listed on the winemakers website we assumed its the correct one. Pls reach out to us if u have info. Will also email the producer.
Dense, waxy wine. Rich fruit, mineral full wine. Oak dynamic too. 89
Dense, waxy wine. Rich fruit, mineral full wine. Oak dynamic too. 89
White
2010 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro Bianco Guardiola
91 points
Second time we come across this in 2 days and definitely a much better show. Had 3 very consistent bottles too. The addition of oak give a waxy side to the wine ( no vanilla thanks God) and depth. Reminded us a bit of south african lightly oaked chenins at times, mineral, ripe, full and with good length. Solid. 91
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White
2008 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Chiarandà
87 points
Dark colour, shows age, maybe more than it had. Oaky, oxidative but we are not sure if oxidative by design or just because it was kept in a hot environment in Lipari. Quite a rich wine and well mature, rustic at times. 87
White
2009 Marco De Bartoli Grillo Grappoli del Grillo
flawed
This wine in good condition is very good. We loved the 2012(Papies 91) but this 2009 has seen one too many summers in Sicily and was oxidised. Shame but a good lesson
Red
2009 Passopisciaro Passopisciaro
92 points
A slight modernist take here on the local reds with definitely a good ( adds to the wine for sure) addition of oak. Rich ripe fruit, smoky at times, firm tannin yet with silky edge to it. Well made and very good. 92
Red
2007 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Duca Enrico
85 points
After the excellent 2005 (Papies 91) we were expecting more. This had a lot more oak and a lot of sweet fruit, like a ribena juice drink.... 85
White - Sparkling
2006 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage
89 points
Well having this with a view of Stromboli adds to the experience.
In general a good champagne but nothing to talk about at this stage.
In general a good champagne but nothing to talk about at this stage.
White
2009 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Bianca di Valguarnera
Had after a long flight of wines but felt pretty generic and average.. No rating this time
White
2009 Duca di Salaparuta Sicilia Bianca di Valguarnera
flawed
One too many summers in Sicily killed this cork..
White
2008 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Chiarandà
flawed
Old whites, hot climate.. Oxidation is a high risk. 2 bottles here gone. We should have stuck to new vintages
White
2013 Donnafugata Contessa Entellina Vigna di Gabri
86 points
Generic and not special, round and easy to drink but does not leave a lasting feel behind. 86
White
2013 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme Salina IGT
Total 5 bottles over 2 days, consistent. Nice wine to have at any lunch on a hot seaside day
White
2012 Azienda Agricola G. Milazzo Sicilia Selezione di Famiglia Grand Cuvée
90 points
We believe this is Chardonnay , un or lightly oaked, ripe, good wine. Light on the nose, quite full, round but with acidity. Solid wine. 90
White
2013 Cantine Colosi Bianco Salina IGT
Blend of Catarrato and Inzolia. Cheap and cheerful. Used it for cooking
White
2013 Tenuta Tascante Etna Bianco Buonora
87 points
Of the many wines under this stable. Felt sort of generic and we were left indifferent. Maybe they should have kept more acidity vs ripeness.. 87
White
2013 Tasca D'Almerita Grillo Mozia Fondazione Whitaker
90 points
Fondazione Whittaker grillo magnum, 2013 mozia
A lot of hype here, special packaging, only bottled in magnums and with a decent price. Would have preferred it more structured, better on the acidity that is. Maybe ripened the grapes a touch too much. Oak has been used we believe. Good grillo, mineral, citrusy. A nice wine but more talk than action. 90
A lot of hype here, special packaging, only bottled in magnums and with a decent price. Would have preferred it more structured, better on the acidity that is. Maybe ripened the grapes a touch too much. Oak has been used we believe. Good grillo, mineral, citrusy. A nice wine but more talk than action. 90
White
2013 Cusumano Etna Alta Mora Bianco
91 points
Ripe, round, mineral. Touch of oak? Apple notes, light citrus, crowd pleaser.good to see 12.5 alc too.91
Red
2009 Tasca D'Almerita il Tascante
91 points
Burgundian in a way, light tannin, good ripe fruit, red fruits, fresh wine and drinks very nicely now. Elegant. 91
White
2012 Tasca D'Almerita Regaleali Nozze d'Oro
87 points
Easy, straight forward and forgettable in a way.