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Dinner at Yan

Yan, National Gallery, Singapore

Tasted November 7, 2015 by Paul S with 397 views

Introduction

Dinner with Alex, Fiona and Kel with blind, BYO wines as usual. William was at another table with a few friends, and the wines were shared liberally around. I would have said that the whites stole the show, but the reds were no slouches either. As sometimes happened, we ended up with a serendipitous symmetry in our line-up, with two very good 2001 white 1er Crus, two red 1er Crus from off the beaten path villages, and two Les St Georges.

Flight 1 - WHITES (2 notes)

White
2001 Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
Really enjoyable. This was surprisingly every bit as good in tropical Singapore as the bottle we had in Burgundy with Fabrice Amiot. It had a lovely nose, gentle but insistent, with deep-set aromas of white fruit and the lightest touch of honeysuckle interwoven with absolutely minerally scents of chalk and hot schist. Not quite Chablis - this was not salty smelling enough - but it was not far away with that nose. We were more at home in Chassagne on the palate though, with a round attack of pear and white apple flesh lightly laced with a gentle streams of stony minerality and a little kiss of honeyed notes trailing away into a chalky and ever so slightly spicy finish. This had a nice creamy texture and weight, yet was also very nicely balanced and absolutely precise. A subtle wine, yet a very complete and quite delicious one. This is drinking beautifully well now as well.
White
2001 Louis Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
94 points
What a beautiful wine. This had such a glorious nose, with shades of butter and sweet cream, floral notes and honeyed tones, and then deep but subtle mineral notes, all floating about a core of sweet yellow-fruited aromas. Really lovely. On the palate, this was really complete and beautifully integrated, having the seamless feel and wonderfully mellow depth of a great mature white Burgundy, yet still possessing a wonderful freshness and energy that rang through beautifully pure flavours of red apples citrus kumquats infused with a gentle honeyed sweetness. There was an ethereal depth to the wine, with real show of effortless strength as it stretched into a long, subtly minerally finish, leaving a nice grip of dry extract lingering on the back-palate. This did not quite have Grand Cru weight, but it really did not need that to wow. Beautiful stuff - this had everything I look for in a great 1er Cru white; drinking incredibly well too. My wine of the night. As good as the 2001 Guy Amiot Chassagne 1er Cru Macherelle that came before it was, this was in a different class altogether.
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Flight 2 - ODD-BALLS (2 notes)

Red
1991 Domaine Bertrand Bachelet Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Maranges 1er Cru
90 points
Wow. This was surprise - it was as good as Maranges as I have ever had. I really enjoyed this, and actually guessed it to be a pretty good Gevrey 1er Cru when blinded. It had such a lovely nose, with cool notes of red cherries and strawberries, a touch of meatiness, a little earth, a little spice, a dash of boiled herbs - a lovely translucent Burgundy nose. The palate was really nice too. Completely resolved, soft and silky, but still held up nicely by softly juicy acidity, it fanned out gently in the mouth with clear, pure flavours of red cherries and berries laced with a bite of stony mineral and a little touch of earthiness in its underbelly. Nice finish too, still with the lightest grip of fine tannins and a shadow of spice lingering in the distance. It perhaps lacked the depth and conviction of a top 1er Cru further up the Cote d'Or, but this was fully at peak and quite enjoyable indeed.
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Red
2002 Domaine Pierre Gelin Fixin 1er Cru Clos Napoleon France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Fixin 1er Cru
92 points
About as good a Fixin as I have ever had. Blind, I actually thought it was a pretty good Vosne-Romanee her Cru. A lot of that had to do with the lovely spicy character on the nose, with its deep-seated motes of earth and wood spice curled around higher-toned aromas of dark cherries and flowers - really quite pretty. The palate was very enjoyable as well. All very juicy and succulent, with dark cherries and berries bedded down with earth and stony mineral along with a gentle spiciness at the finish. This was still layered with a dusting of fine tannins, but otherwise, everything seemed very integrated and wonderfully balanced. A really pleasurable wine that is coming into its own now - I was very impressed.

Flight 3 - LES SAINT GEORGES (2 notes)

Red
2004 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
Lovely. This is really coming into its own now. The green meanies from youth have faded somewhat, leaving behind a really elegant expression of Les St Georges. On the nose, gentle wafts of red plums and soft berry notes drifted out of the glass alongside a subtle earthiness, some minerally notes and just that hint of boiled herb and a stalky, flowery lilt that made it seemed almost Chambolle-like. I just loved the palate on this too. There was still a hint of sinew in its structure, but otherwise, this had a velvety elegance that belied the terroir, with lovely freshness and purity showing in its flavours of dark cherries and wild berries, all seasoned with a little spice and stony mineral. That floral character on the nose showed up again on the finish along with a little twist of orange peel and a little honeyed glow, just before a gentle chew of fine tannins set in right at the very end. Such a lovely wine, at a brilliant place now, although it still has the structure and balance to go on for a long time yet.
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Red
2006 Domaine Chevillon-Chezeaux Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
91 points
Only two years apart but a world away from the resolved and elegant 2004 Robert Chevillon Les St Georges. This came across as a harder edged, rather more rustic cousin. Overall, I thought it was pretty good, but far from being ready to drink. It had a really nice nose, as I have often found with Chevillon-Chezeaux's wines, with classic NSG notes of minerally spice and wet stone, damp earth and shades of red berries and darker cherries. On the palate, the first things that struck me were fine but grippy tannins and some lovely clear acidity - both not being facets that I normally associate with the softer 2006 vintage. There was certainly a good amount NSG muscle and structure to the way the wine was constructed, but in a graceful way, like an athlete in full fight, all tense sinew and clean focus underlying otherwise full, fleshy notes of dark cherries and red berries, with a bit earth and mineral popping up in the firm, almost slightly tough finish. A solid, nobly structured wine, with the potential to be very good, but it seems 10-15 years away from being ready yet. 91+

Flight 4 - THE LONE GRAND CRU (1 note)

Red
1998 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
92 points
Enjoyable, but this is not one of the strongest Lambrays. Consistent with the bottle I had last year, I found this to be pretty good but not altogether great. It did start with a lovely nose again, with a warm waft of Morey spice alongside a touch of bramble, some funky earth and a little meatiness coming out alongside a core of dark cherries and plum aromas. Masculine yet gentle, this was your typical Clos des Lambrays bouquet – really nice stuff. The palate was a little weaker though. It had a delicious flavor profile of dark cherries and berries draped with a nice meaty earthiness on the midpalate and a warm flush of spice and mineral at the finish. Good balance too, with a real juicy freshness that I liked. However, the wine also showed up some of the weakness of the 1998 vintage. In terms of weight, it was clearly a Grand Cru, showing more breadth and depth than either of the two bottles of NSG 1er Cru Les St Georges (a vineyard oft mentioned as a candidate for elevation to Grand Cru status) that we had on the night. A bit of a contrast with the last bottle, which felt a bit light to me. On the other hand though, this also felt more rustic, lacking the clarity and cut that one would expect of a great Cote de Nuits Grand Cr, or even from one of the better vintages of Clos de Lambrays, so that the structure felt a bit muddied at points. Nevertheless though, a nice wine, in a good place now and drinking quite deliciously. I am not sure it has much more room to improve though.

Flight 5 - BUBBLY ENDING (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Imperial Rosé France, Champagne
92 points
A lot more advanced than it should be, but this was actually really yummy. In the glass, it had already taken on a deep, orangey amber colour of a much older Rosé, and this was reflected in the nose too, where slightly oxidative hints of browned apples mingled with matured aromas of dried strawberries, cherry liquer and wafts of treacle and molasses. It all came together really nicely to make a gorgeous bouquet though. The palate was really delicious too. Rich and full, with a slight sweetness indicative of some dosage, it unfolded in beautifully integrated flavours of molasses, malt and marasca cherries, all still lightly wrapped in a fresh, fine mousse and lively acidity. The freshness was perhaps the only thing that showed the wine's relative youthfulness actually. Otherwise, this drank like something from the late 1970s or early 1980s, with hints of rancio coming out at points. Hurtling downhill fast, but on the night, this was very enjoyable indeed.
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