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Northern Rhone Tasting

Brad's house, Seattle

Tasted April 21, 2007 by The Klipper with 700 views

Introduction

This wine group is composed of half professionals and half consumers, the two groups having met on Wine Therapy.

Flight 1 - St. Joseph, but no aspirin to be seen (2 notes)

An interesting contrast.

Red
1994 Domaine Durand St. Joseph Les Côteaux France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
88 points
Heavy duty empyreumatic (but of course not oak) smokiness, along with a spidery must, the latter blowing off to reveal some soy and iodine. Hefty hot vintage grip, with a bit of minty gritty toothpaste initially in the mouth -- stopped just shy of being astringent. More air time bizarrely led to a more floral quality. Quite nice some thought; others found it a bit rustic and simple.
Red
1995 J.L. Chave Sélection St. Joseph Offerus France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
88 points
The inaugural vintage. Bright, almost cabernet-like currant aromatics. Black olive notes as well: this wine is lithe and lean. We appear to have gotten a nice bottle, and any qualms I've had about the wine showing a green bean element in its youth is dissipated here. Later the wine seemed to fade a bit in comparison to the Durand SJ 94.

Flight 2 - 88 you wait the S1s will (2 notes)

The Chave performed -- the Jaboulet way overperformed.

Red
1988 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
91 points
Aromtically this appeared to be a milky reflection of the 94 St Joseph we just tried (both vintages known to show some gritty drought-related tannins). But in the mouth this wine had intense refreshing acids, purity of fruit, and decent length. Pulled from the bag, the crowd oohed and ahhed. Remarkable, as few of us give this appellation much credit -- perhaps reductivity is a good thing after all!
Red
1988 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
92 points
Tarry nebbiolo-esque nose. Flavors much more in line with mature Syrah. Like the Jaboulet Crozes Thalabert 88, quite high in acid, but with more buffering tannins and dry extract. Bloomed gloriuosly over 45 minutes to reveal peanut shell, but just a touch of bacon.

Flight 3 - The early 90s (3 notes)

A generic wine; a dark horse ringer; and a corked wine.

Red
1991 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
84 points
Solid, but uninspired, generic northern Rhone Syrah. Others reported it falling apart fairly quickly. Perhaps a victim of the massive crop in this vintage.
Red
1991 Guy Bernard Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
90 points
A crowd pleaser, for those preferring wines a little bit more on rustic or traditional side. I felt it shone in comparison to the previous wine Delas Freres CR 91, and that it had play dough-y volatility for the first 15 minutes. Nice depth, though, and still quite a treat. The host advises that you can find mature Bernard CRs on the internet for very nice prices.
Red
1992 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
flawed
2,4 TCA. What I call a "bloomer," as in, if we had decanted and not noticed, it would've been completely undrinkable. Poured straight from the bottle, Jon was the first to nail it to the wall. Still, educational enough. Probably would've warranted a low to mid 90s score.

Flight 4 - The mid 90s (3 notes)

A negoce shows his style; and two over the top roasty 97s.

Red
1995 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie Les Dames Brunes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
82 points
Sweet, bruising fruit, in a cooked vein. Turned into sassafras cola after 15 minutes in the glass. Blecch. What do you expect from a Pinot Noir producer?
Red
1997 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
94 points
Gorgeous, and expressive (decanted for one hour six hours before the tasting.) Dark toned, with a wash of Rotie-roast. Contained elements of a hard edged tightknit Cornas while also highlighting the intense heat of the vintage. When we returned to this wine, some commented about its over the top nature -- I understood them to mean the raunchy bacon element. Yum! But we can see the Jamet is definitely modernizing.
Red
1997 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
95 points
Decent expression of terroir, but quite sweet in fruit component, and with not a little oak. As with the Jamet CR 97 in this flight, did a demonstrable job in opening up -- perhaps more, as it had not been decanted. The more it opened, the more some attendees were willing to say that it was a Syrah that could be from anywhere (that would be anywhere, Walla Walla, WA.) Probably the one bottle opened ridiculously prematurely in the tasting.

Flight 5 - Beer down (1 note)

Time to sober up with a pre-Parker Bordeaux.

Red
1981 Domaine de Chevalier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
A super lean, terroir driven wine that no one failed to recognize as Bordeaux. Still linear, if not compact, and with the capacity to go another 15 to 25 years. Quite remarkable, and did its best to cleanse our Syrah-saturated palates.
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