Pin-prick bubbles; creamy lemon, harmonious, relaxed, dry and energetic but silky and rounded, hint of spicy minerality, very good length. A graceful Blanc de Blancs.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Medium copper orange; candied fruit and freshness, spices and flowers, perfect weight, silky and layered, perfumed, a lovely representative of its house style; very good length with lovely fruit.

Pale green-tinged white gold; very Coche on the nose, pure and precise, lots of new no-toast oak, lemon and lime, herbs, salty minerality, good depth; the palate displays surprising amplitude for an Aligoté, but the ripeness does not come at the expense of elegance or typicity, the acidity is fresh but ripe, the balance is impeccable, harmonious and silky, creamy lemon, perfectly integrated oak; good length. Wonderful Aligoté.

Superbly classical Barbera d'Alba, lifted nose opens up beautifully, complex, roses, violets and smoke (from the stalks), black cherries, liquorice, hints of cocoa and truffle, spicy wood, perfumed and deep, complete; the polished palate has impressive power and weight (14.5% ABV), but it is carried effortlessly by its vibrant acidity and mineral energy, velvety tannins, juicy fruit of amarena cherries, touch of beef stock; complete finish, intense and long. Wow!

Half bottle. A blend of 70% dry PX (solera started in 1964) and 30% old PX sherry (solera started in 1918), Carrascal vineyard, TA 5.9 gr/l, 17% ABV. Vibrant amber gold; toasted nuts, vanilla, soured butter, wood, intense, candied fruit, herbs and spices; salty minerality rounded off by delicate sweetness (45 gr/l), milk chocolate, tangy acidity, wonderful bitters from the wood; excellent finish, long and intense.

Mature but fresh and mineral, ripe and rounded but tightly wound and energetic, ripe apple, lovely weight but surprisingly not a lot of tension, hint of fresh almonds, very solid but just a bit low on oomph and definition. It does seem to have improved with a few years in bottle, though.