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Riesling SWAG 2017

Restaurant Vlet, Hamburg / Speicherstadt

Tasted April 1, 2017 by NoTrollingerPlease with 461 views

Flight 1 (19 notes)

White - Off-dry
1988 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
Medium, golden yellow color. Medium intense, fully developed and elegant nose with some petrol, fine yellow fruit, mineral notes.
Dry, medium+ still perfectly integrated acidity, medium- body. Medium intense flavors: spices, herbs, firn. Very nice and elegant, still at a very good condition.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
1976 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
96 points
I had the chance to drink this wine twice this evening, from two perfect bottles straight out of Zillikens cellar. What a beauty!
Clear, pale, amber color with an interesting red hue. Wonderful, clean, fully developed and complex nose: Smoke, flint stone, herbs, peat, botrytis (honey).
Off-dry, sweetness has perfectly blended into the wine, acidity is still medium+ and also perfectly integrated. Beautiful, elegant taste with layers and layers of different aromas and flavors. Very long and lingering. Certainly at its peak. Great and memorable experience!
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
1996 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune France, Alsace
93 points
Medium, golden yellow color. Medium+ intense, developing nose. Surprisingly fresh and young, without the so common heavy petrol notes. Very mineral, fresh, some baked apple.
Bone dry, medium+ acidity. Lots of pressure and tension, very precise, salty, clearly driven and dominated by minerality, yellow stone fruit in the back. Only a few signs of ageing and quite youthful. Very long. Has years ahead.
White
2007 Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Nahe
93 points
Clear, pale citrus golden color. Clean, muted nose. I guess, we should have given this wine more time to open up. Dry, very elegant and powerful. A textbook example of a dry Riesling. Fruit is in the back, you can taste the fine and elegant notes of the Halenberg with its saltiness and slate notes. Very structured and precise. One of the best dry wines usually, but unfortunately this evening it has to compete with the very best, therefore “only” 93pts. It has years of potential for further development, so no need to hurry.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
Drunken parallel to the 07 Halenberg. Very comparable in structure, finesse and quality. IMHO this evening a tiny bit better than the Halenberg. Clear, pale citrus golden color. Clean, muted nose. I guess, we should have given this wine more time to open up. Dry, very elegant and powerful. A textbook example of a dry Riesling. Very nice balance between ripe, sometimes exotic fruit (pineapple) and salty, stony flavors. Very structured and precise, surprising for this warm and opulent vintage. One of the best dry wines usually, but unfortunately this evening it has to compete with the very best, therefore “only” 94pts. It has years of potential for further development, so no need to hurry.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Emrich-Schönleber Riesling A. de. L. Germany, Nahe
94 points
Much like the 07 Halenberg. Very comparable in structure, finesse and quality. IMHO this evening a tiny bit better than the Halenberg. Clear, pale yellow color. Clean, muted nose. I guess, we should have given this wine more time to open up. Dry, very elegant and powerful. A textbook example of a dry Riesling. Very nice balance between ripe yellow stone fruit and salty, mineral flavors. Very structured and precise, surprising for this warm and opulent vintage. One of the best dry wines usually, but unfortunately this evening it has to compete with the very best, therefore “only” 94pts.
I would say, that this wine is still too young and should be kept for at least a few more years. It has years of potential for further development, so no need to hurry.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2004 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Germany, Pfalz
96 points
From Magnum. Clear, youthful pale yellow. Wow, what a wine! So much tension, vibration, pressure and length! As most of the other GG’s I tried this evening, the Kirchenstück also dominated and scored with its mineral notes, its purity and laser like focus. Perfectly integrated, ripe and high acidity. Almost no signs of ageing, very little petrol notes. Left me sitting silent and stunning. Must have been my dry WOTN, if there hadn’t been even better wines. Potential for 10-20+ years and it will certainly gain complexity. Great!!!
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2011 Wittmann La Borne Riesling Alte Reben Germany, Rheinhessen
94 points
From Magnum. Clear, youthful pale citrus color. This is a stunner and a beast in the making! Very elegant and fine yellow stone fruit in the nose, layered with citrus, freshness and saltiness.
Bone dry, lots of chalky minerality. Very good acidity, not yet perfectly integrated. Has a lot of tension and vibrant energy. Will be really great in a few years and I am so lucky that I have a bottle
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Auslese trocken "R" Germany, Pfalz
91 points
From Magnum, straight from the vintners cellar. This wine had the bad luck to be served after 09 Kirchspiel and 11 Wittmann La Borne. It is certainly a very good, still youthful dry Riesling. But it was light years behind those two regarding tension, power, vibrancy and raciness. Much broader, more fat. Certainly not yet fully developed, but I heavily doubt, that it will gain this vibrant pressure and tension of Kellers 09 GG e.g. It will certainly loose fat and gain some more flavors, but that’s all.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2009 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheinhessen
97 points
From Magnum. At first I barely wanted a glass of it, because we already hat 09 AbtsErde. Stupid me! That was my dry Riesling of the night without ANY doubt! Clear, pale, youthful golden color. Nose was not fully developed yet and a bit muted, but very nice with herbs, mineral notes and fine yellow and exotic fruit. Much more open than the AbtsE.
The first sip made me shiver: Electrifying tension, vibrant acidity and a thrilling combination of yellow fruit infused by chalky mineral notes. Spicy, herbal notes, very deep, intense and long. I don’t say, that it is in general better than the AbtsE, but this night it certainly was! Drinks very well now, but will certainly continue to improve for 5+ years. Awesome!
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
1975 Joh. Jos. Prüm Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
92 points
Quite youthful color, nose without much ageing notes though you can smell that it is a mature Riesling. Off-dry, medium+, perfectly integrated acidity. Nice fruit, combined with elegant firn notes and petrol. Quite long. Very nice and young for over 40years of age.
White
1983 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
Straight of the Scharzhof cellar. Perfect bottle. Clear, pale yellow-golden color. This wine and the 94er Kabi we had this night are the archetype of a Saar Riesling at its very peak: Pure, fine, elegant, perfectly integrated, racy acidity, very nice combination of ripe yellow and exotic fruit with slate. Very good length. Nothing more to add, there is no better. Only Müller can “beat” Müller…
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
1994 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
92 points
Straight of the Scharzhof cellar. Perfect bottle. Clear, pale yellow-golden color. This wine and the 83er Kabi we had this night are the archetype of a Saar Riesling at its very peak: Pure, fine, elegant, precise, perfectly integrated, racy acidity, very nice combination of ripe yellow and exotic fruit with slate. This wine was surprisingly almost dry. Would have been a very good Aperitif. Very good length. On the nose some petrol and lactic notes, herbs and spices. Almost closed. So I guess it is still not at its full peak. Nothing more to add, there is no better.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Off-dry
2005 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Auction Germany, Nahe
93 points
Clear, pale amber color. This is certainly a very good wine, but compared with all ripe wines we had this night it still felt too young, unfinished and clumsy. Keep it in the cellar for 10-20+ years and I guess you will be highly rewarded. At the moment you get a very good Auslese with medium+ intense and complex nose: Lots of herbs, honey and freshness.
Sweet, high acidity, not fully integrated yet. Creamy, ripe fruit, herbs, salt. Very nice and very good. I guess you can compare it with the young George Clooney: handsome and with great potential, but not fully developed and at its peak 
White - Off-dry
1969 Schloss Eltz Rauenthaler Gehrn Riesling Auslese Germany, Rheingau
93 points
What a privilege to taste this wine. Clear, medium amber color with a rosé hue. Medium+ intense, fully developed nose with fantastic aromas of black tea, spices, speck and smoke. Extremely complex and multi-layered.
Unfortunately the palate could not keep up with the nose, but still was beautiful: Cold black tea, good acidity, still good integrated, long. Nose: 96+, palate: 90+. A real experience!
White - Sweet/Dessert
1971 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Beerenauslese Eiswein Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
98 points
What a privilege and pleasure to taste this wine. Straight out of the vintners cellar as 0,75l bottle. Clear, medium amber color. The nose was nice, with fine botrytis notes, but not as expressive as I thought. (Nose: 91)
But the palate was an epiphany! Best noble sweet wine in my life so far! Layers and layers of complex aromas: Black tea, honey, tobacco, raisins, dried fruit, combined with salt, slate and hundreds of other aromas. The high sugar level was perfectly balanced by the extreme, but perfectly integrated acidity. Everything was at its right place. The finish was almost never ending. Unbelievable! And I guess it has not even reached its full peak. This wine is immortal and I envy everyone who has a bottle of this wine in its cellar. (Palate: 100)
Every other wine thereafter was just fermented grape juice!!!
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)
White - Off-dry
1990 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auslese Nr. 92 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
95 points
Clear, pale, bright amber color. Off-dry rather than sweet due to the high, but perfectly integrated acidity. Complex aromas of black tea, fresh fruits combined with herbal notes and chalky minerals. Long, very elegant, vibrant. That’s an Auslese style I really like. I could drink the whole bottle without getting sticky fingers or teeth  Very nice and with enough life for another 5+ years.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1986 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Pfalz
91 points
Dark brown, oxidized color. Like a PX sherry. Extreme acidity, quite nice, but drunk after the out of this world BA from Müller it simply couldn’t compete.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1933 Sanitätsrat Dr. Ronde Neumagener Rosengärtchen Riesling feine Auslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
My oldest Riesling so far and what a beautiful experience:
Clear, medium golden-amber color. Medium intense, fully developed nose with some fresh cut white mushrooms mixed with tangerine and some sweetness.
Very fine, elegant sweetness on the palate. Must have been extremely sweet in his youth. Good, still very well integrated acidity. Very soft and velvet taste with a long finish. Very beautiful. Hard to rate it properly. Wine like this, aged in dignity cannot really be rated. Wonderful. BTW: This estate does not exist anymore.

Closing

This was the most exiting wine event I ever attended so far in my life. Fantastic wine, fantastic people: what can you expect more?

One great Riesling after another. And the unique chance to taste multiple vintages of the same wine or compare a wine with others from the same vintage. Absolutely fantastic.

Only tiny pitfall: the 5 course dinner served by the Vlet could not stand the quality of the wine. Overpriced and quite mediocre. But hey, who care’s when he can get these wines?

I have drunken much more wines than I described as tasting notes. And it was hard to stay focused when bone dry wines were followed by noble sweet followed by off-dry and back to dry ones. Therefore all notes a certainly biased and not as good as they could be. But hey, I enjoyed it.

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