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World's Greatest - Night I

Eleven Madison Park

Tasted May 11, 2017 by The Vines That Bind with 782 views

Flight 1 (28 notes)

White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
94 points
Creamy nose with white acacia flowers and lemon meringue citrus. Interestingly the colour is darker than both '90 and '88. Really beautiful, pure. Palate has precise lemon citrus with tart orange in the core. This is striking with laser acid that drives a powerful finish. Maybe out of sync on palate...
White - Sparkling
1990 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
95 points
Nice barley and smoked cereal grains on the nose here. Different than both '96 and '88 which both have more Chardonnay cream. Definitely a more developed palate than the '96 but still is a major strike of citrus fruit. Different than '88, which is is more brawny and powerful.
White - Sparkling
1988 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
96 points
Somewhat oxidative nose, wet slate, lemon lime citrus, creamy. This is very subtle and elegant. More developed and ripe orchard fruit as opposed to intense citrus. Best of the three, '96, '90, '88. Beautifully fresh.
White
1986 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Beautiful and big nose that has wet slate and gravel, sulfur, tangerine, and lemon merengue. Expansive palate with a good dollop of green and yellow apple and big acid up front that fades away quicker than the others.
White
1986 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
95 points
Nose is comparable to that on the Blanchot but amplified and with more reduction and sulfur. Big and bright and highly expressive. Nose is the best of the three (Blanchots, Valmur, and Clos). Big and striking on the palate with rich red and yellow apple juice. Powerful. Dynamite tonight, a gear ahead of Blanchot. Most complex and integrated. Distinctly Chablis still, not just like Puligny or Meursault.
White
1986 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Definitely the quietest nose of the three Raveneaus, ripe yellow orchard fruit, a snicker of oxidation, warm and ripe. Candied yellow citrus. This palate is flavorful but lacks the density and richness of both Blanchot and Valmur, unfortunately. Still fairly mouth coating.
White
2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
97 points
Gorgeous nose of white flowers, lillies, honeysuckle, and peonies (flower, check spelling). Unbelievably expressive and showy bouquet. Palate is subtle up front and crescendos into a ripe and expansive mouthful of beautiful chardonnay fruit. Kapon said '01 is a bruiser '00 is a ballerina. Ripe and opulent.
White
2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
96 points
White acacia flowers, honeysuckle, and trace sulfur on a delicate and gorgeous nose. A true bouquet here, elegant, subtle, lingering, gorgeous. Kapon said '01 is a bruiser '00 is a ballerina. The nod probably goes to the '01, but this is one of the most beautiful things I've ever smelled and tasted.
Red
1982 Château Lafite Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
94 points
Lead pencil, forest floor, horse hoof. Huge projection out of the glass. Palate is lush and juicy. Lots of mature blackberry and damp leathers.
Red
1982 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
96 points
Similar but bolder nose than that on the Lafite with more blue and blackberry fruit as opposed to rustic earth. This palate is bigger than the Lafite as well with more structure and stuffing. Showy for Latour, but also pretty true to forum. Deep, dark, and rich. A beauty but still a bruiser.
Red
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
94 points
This is an all-time favorite of mine and unfortunately this nose is not on the same level the '82 Lafite and Latour served alongside. Reading closed with red cedar and spice but not too much else. Exotic. This is showing more with coaxing. Palate is more mature than it should be, soily and mushroom. Not totally sure what to make of this tonight.
Red
1928 Château Palmer France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
96 points
Unbelievable how fresh and juicy this nose is. Lead pencil, damp soil, and red cedar. The juice on this palate is amazing. This bottle blind could be mistaken for '82.
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Red
1928 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
97 points
Like the Palmer, it is unbelievable how fresh and juicy this nose is. Whereas the Mouton was the weakest of of the '82 flight, this Mouton is winning the '28 flight. Red cedar, lead pencil shavings, and horse hoof. Spectacular.
Red
1928 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
96 points
Unbelievable how fresh and juicy this nose is. More age showing than on either the '28 Palmer or Mouton with leathers and dusty old cigar box. Sweet red cherry on the palate with touches of tertiary soil. Baking spice and cinnamon.
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Red
1990 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
90 points
[Mag] Tar, creosote, clove, and pine. Palate is a little more approachable but still pretty gritty and austere.
Red
1985 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Nose has a lot of herbal spice. Palate has much more nuance and a variety of intriguing tertiary flavours. Decidedly superior to the '90, but not showing like the '78.
Red
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Speciale Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Fully tertiary nose, red and black licorice, fennel, dry dusty leathers, distinctly old Italian. Complex and intricate palate, savory with many distinct spicy flavors.
Red
1988 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
96 points
Nose is supremely elegant, clean, and pure. The '88 is the most expressive out of the flight and has some soily notes coming through. Fresh Strawberry and raspberry fruit. This is spectacular. This finish on each of these these Jayer Cros Ps is like a French kiss. With more time the '88 has serious vosne spice too.
Red
1991 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
98 points
Nose is supremely elegant, clean, and pure. Red cherry kiss. Huge lacquered black cherry. On the palate there is bigger with punchy bright red fruit. Delicate structure but red berry fruit has more pop than you might expect. Cola note. A magnificent bottle of wine...
Red
1986 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
96 points
Like the '91 and '88, the nose here is supremely elegant, clean, and pure. While each of these wines is hard to describe, this is reminiscent of the '86 Murgers a few months ago. Beautiful, but out of all of these this definitely shows tannin a little more and is perhaps a touch dirtier.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
94 points
Big unapologetically whole cluster nose with stalky cellulose in addition to soft cherry and cranberry fruit. The steaminess shows up on the palate too. Classic DRC and classic Echezeaux here. A particularly strong showing out of this bottle which is challenging both the RSV and Riche for pole position. Awesome, especially if you're into this style.
Red
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
93 points
Gorgeous nose that is highly floral with pure concentration. Showy and racy. Gorgeous on the palate as well, very silky but still has juice and spice. Give it more time and espresso notes emerge. Less striking and impressive than the Echz overall though.
Red
1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
94 points
The nose here is bigger and cooler than that on the RSV. A lot of spice in here too though. Roasted and clumsy nose. Better on the palate. Much better actually.
White
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
92 points
First experience with any Chave Blanc, and really many blanc Northern Rhones at all. Stonefruit and cheese on the nose. Prickly pear. A kick of ginger and cayenne too. Oily and viscous. Curious but fun.
Red
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
flawed
Musty nose... not looking good. Ahhh, heartbreaking. You can sort of see the juice that is underneath, but unfortunately this bottle is corked.
Red
1990 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Some argument as to whether this bottle was heat damaged, but at least to this amateur taster the nose was spot on Chave with acrylics and ceramics, smoked meat, and charred embers. Yeah, it seems like there is a lot more red berry juice on this nose than the bottle last week. Rubbery note on the nose too... Hard to say, 92+/-
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
96 points
This was a Goldkapsel, and I believe also an Auction bottle, to close out an insane evening.

Oily diesel nose, focused apricot, overripe mango. Thick and super syrupy palate. This is thicker than any young Yquem that comes to mind. Haven't really experienced any Riesling close to this level.

Quite something.
White
2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
flawed
Looks pretty brown in the glass... unfortunately this is toast. Thankfully '01 and '00 are on.
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