This is one of the greatest white Burgundies out there. A really rich nose, with a slight hint of oak but also some creamy citrus and lots of minerality. This just kept getting bigger and more expressive over the course of the evening. It's a massive, concentrated, and expansive wine, with so much complexity and raw power. And as much as I hate to talk about premox and all, this is drinking extraordinarily well right now, so it's hardly a shame to open them.

Definitely something you don't see much of these days. The nose shows a bit of apricot, but also a bit of nuttiness that is more representative of the age. The palate's better than the nose, and there's that ripeness and almost a hint of botrytis that gives this wine some breadth to go along with the high acidity. Fairly complex for the level, but I'm certainly not keen on aging this any further.

This wine doesn't explode until it contacts air, and then it just goes crazy. Clearly there are still some potent sauvignon blanc notes, but this is spicy, honeyed, and slightly resiny. There's a waxy quality here as well, but there's acidity and spice to keep this from getting heavy. Light on its feet, with lots of complexity on the palate. Overall, I like the intoxicating nose more here, but that's picking nits with an incredible aged example of white Bordeaux.

There's a little bit of green here, but otherwise the nose and palate were fairly dumb. This is a tautly structured wine, with plenty of the 1996 acids, though it's not too angular. Overall I got the sense that this was a bigger wine than the 1996 Lafarge Ducs that I had a week or two ago. Then we repoured this wine later in the evening and the TCA showed up.

This is as textbook as it comes from de Montille and Pommard. The nose is slightly stinky, but also shows some of the lovely red fruit of the vintage. You can almost smell how backwards this wine is -- there's a leathery note here that's almost more Bordeaux than Burgundy. Nevertheless, this is unmistakable pinot on the palate -- that hint of rust, massive dirt notes, and the beautiful 1993 fruit again. A lovely wine that would be a treat to drink on its own, but sadly it was overshadowed by the Leroy.

Red capsule, so you know this is the legit shit. That nose -- Leroy just smells like Leroy. It transcends terroir. A crazy amount of spice here, something that feels more Vosne than Pommard. Incredibly textured and rich, with a fruit character that matches the de Montille. But overall, this just has way more intensity, concentration, and raw power. Maybe, if you let yourself be convinced, you can see the tannins being a little more rustic and backwards here, pointing to the commune, but I think that's just more the label bias talking.

Off vintage? Not this wine. The nose is classic Burlotto with that hint of green olive and that seductive red-fruited elegance. The palate admittedly is a slight step down from the nose here, but it's still an absolutely stunning, entrancing Barolo. There's a slight bit of the green stem thing on the palate, but it's not overbearing. This has always been a special Barolo, and this edition of it is no exception.

Opened quite late in the evening as a foil to the 2014 Monvigliero. Pretty much a foursquare wine. The fruit is still youthful with a blend of red and black, and whatever oak there is here, it has integrated well. The acidity is right for the vintage. Overall, there's nothing distinctive here -- it checks all the boxes, but it's not something I'm seeking out to put in my cellar.