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Loek's birthday lunch and tasting
Restaurant Bak, Amsterdam
Tasted January 5, 2020 by FransS with 175 views
Introduction
For lots of years we went to Texel in January to celebrate the birthdays of Loek and Saskia. This time Loek has chosen a nice place in Amsterdam to enjoy with e few friends some very special gems from his wine cellar.
Flight 1 (13 notes)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Tarlant Champagne Zero Brut Nature
91 points
A serious champagne, firm, good mousse, balanced, with a kind of voluptuousness, even without a dosage; the elegance remained due to a fresh backbone.
White - Sparkling
1982 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut
95 points
A whiff of oxidation in the start, hardly no mousse, very interesting and friendly bitters, peach, vanilla, bit waxy, dry and very long aftertaste.
Ten minutes later, a bit more mousse, the refreshing backbone is more obvious and there is more transparency in the taste. Disgorged in '94.
A perfect example of a delicious and classic champagne.
Ten minutes later, a bit more mousse, the refreshing backbone is more obvious and there is more transparency in the taste. Disgorged in '94.
A perfect example of a delicious and classic champagne.
White
2011 F.X. Pichler Riesling Unendlich
94 points
It is a wine you do not taste frequently (normally), a difficult to describe bouquet with some caramel, a whiff of botrytis; the taste is ethereal with a very elegant, refreshing acidity underneath. The aftertaste grows with aeration. What will the future brings?
White
2009 Arnaud Ente Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts
92 points
A good wine, needs air, even after an aeration of about 4 hours. The acidiy is a bit rough, as is the wood, but overall it is an expressive, masculin Puligny to dine with, still very lively.
White
2009 Benoit Ente Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatières En la Richarde
97 points
Compared to the '09 Les Referts from Arnaud Ente, this wine shows more freshness, a very refined, super elegant backbone, persistence, but light on its feet. This is a copybook wine, tight in a three-piece suit.
Benoit seems to me not the guy to make wines with a whiff of exoticism, The aftertaste stays very long and very precise; super quality.
Benoit seems to me not the guy to make wines with a whiff of exoticism, The aftertaste stays very long and very precise; super quality.
White
2009 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères
98 points
On a par with the '09 1er Cru Les Folatières En la Richarde from Benoit Ente (the Les Enseignères is very often as good as any 1er Cru). Why a point more? This wine is also super intense, also super refined, but just a tad more thrilling in its bouquet (in its vanilla and little flowers) and in its ripe acidity. Here, also, a superb and super long aftertaste.
The trio 2009 Puligny's show the quality this vintage can offer (but not always does).
The trio 2009 Puligny's show the quality this vintage can offer (but not always does).
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Red
1990 Harlan Estate
96 points
Its first release, so a very special bottle; the colour is lively , but ripe (of course), soft vanilla, a whiff of mint, black currants, smooth and juicy, no edges, but still a lot of complexity, but no 'electricity'. With aeration the wine grows in the glass. The power is very gentle and subtle and the finish is excellent. After 29 years I think the wine has reached its ceiling, or maybe did some years ago.
Red
1982 Château Léoville Las Cases
98 points
This wine shows a bit more expression than the '90 Harlan Estate; A superb colour and the red and black fruit still pushes in your nose and mouth; in the taste lots of minerals, however just behind the first impression in the mouth I missed a bit the concentration that returned in the second part of the taste. The overall expression is one of youth.
This wine still has a life ahead of 15 to 20 years. Absolutely one of the best wines of '82.
This wine still has a life ahead of 15 to 20 years. Absolutely one of the best wines of '82.
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Red
1953 Morin Pere & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
91 points
A very ripe colour with lots of brown (but still lively), you smell cocoa, but also a certain decay, the sweetness, however, keeps the wine alive. It is a charming wine of village level that has survived perfectly, maybe with a dose of Algerian or Rhône wine, but who cares?
Red
1953 Château Troplong Mondot
94 points
A surprise, still a red core, the bouquet is 'winy', smooth, not specific, but than comes a very fresh and juicy taste with a good and firm backbone. This wine, at least this bottle, is full of life and has an inspiring aftertaste.
Red
1953 Château Cos d'Estournel
93 points
Darker in colour than the '53 Troplong-Mondot with a not completely fresh bouquet, but than the taste is quite firm, also a bit dusty and a tad less expressive than the T-M. The aftertaste is good, but there is some age showing in the overall performance; however a very good wine considering its age.
White
1997 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek
96 points
Loek had opened the bottle 18 hours before the tasting and the wine needed it. A gentle sweetness in the nose, soft spices and minerals. the taste is superbly dry and there is an excellent fraicheur from start to finish underneath. How will this wine taste in 10 years??
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White - Off-dry
1971 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel
98 points
A miracle! The colour is complete orange, the wine starts like a sauternes with perfect Edelfäule, but quite fast the subtle and super refined acidity makes the difference. In the nose you also have a green sensation and a slightly earthy impression. After 48 years you have a glimp of heaven in your glass. The aftertaste lingers extremely long in the mouth; what an experience with the illustrious 1971 German vintage.
Closing
A super collection of wines and of illustrious names that will stay for a long time in my memory. Where do you find three super 2009 Puligny's and the first Harlan release and, and, and? In Loek's cellar! The restaurant did a fine job supporting the wines.