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Sommelier Appreciation Dinner 2020
The Brown Residence
Tasted February 9, 2020 by dcwino with 435 views
Introduction
Two years ago, Reginald started a dinner to honor Nadine Elizabeth Brown, the former head sommelier at the Charlie Palmer. Last year it was Andy Myers of Jose Andres’s ThinkFoodGroup. it is becoming an annual event and the honoree was Karl Kuhn of St Anselm. Reginald was incredibly generous in the first two renditions. This time, it was beyond anything that I could have ever imagined.
Flight 1 - Italian (6 notes)
There was a lot of great champagnes in the kitchen counter, all in magnum or larger formats. I started with Italian wines served in the porch. The 02 Monfortino once again shined.
Red
2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
98 points
Incredible concentration, ripe forward red fruit, noticeable but fine tannins. A lot of Monfortino iron. Though incredibly youthful, generous fruit makes it really enjoyable. A long life ahead. I guess Robert knows what he is doing.
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Red
1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto
94 points
Warm, round and soft red cherry fruit, a hint of cedar, still a hint of tannins at the end. A classic Giacosa. The warmth and red fruit remind me the 85 Burgundy a bit. A classic Giacosa style and clearly expression the warm vintage.
Red
1995 Gaja Barbaresco
90 points
There is a hint of oxidative note. Soft red fruit, caramel, cedar/oak and still noticeable tannins. A bit hollow in the middle and showing Gaja oak. My least favorite wine of the Italian flight.
Red
1990 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia
94 points
Incredibly youthful example. Concentrated ripe yet cool cassis fruit. Ash and a hint of petrol that I often get in Italian cabs. Still showing noticeable oak/cedar. Lead pencil. This is drinking well but can improve further. Some may find the cedar/oak note bothersome. Close to cool climate Cali cab than Bordeaux.
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Red
1990 Gaja Barolo Sperss
96 points
Classic Gaja, big and rich, concentrated black fruit, dark spices and tar. Mostly masked tannins due to opulent fruit. Drinking beautifully. Unless one really doesn’t care for Gaja, it is hard not to like this wine.
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Red
1986 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto
91 points
The fruit expression is slightly overripe, cherry liqueur. Warm and soft. There is a hint of bitterness at the end. If this is correct, the fruit is too ripe.
Flight 2 - White (9 notes)
I would love to savour the 90 Raveneau Clos. The PYCM was a crowd pleaser. The 90 Chevalier de Sterimberg was really fascinating.
White
2014 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or
94 points
Beautifully expressing Lafon's opulent concentrated fruit and the 14 vintage precision. Initially served a bit too cold. Lemon curd, beeswax and strong mineral. Succulent yumminess.
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White
2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
92 points
Clean and fresh, no premox. Very precise and linear. There is a hint of fizz. Medium acidity of the 12 vintage but nice Les Clos mineral expression. Nice showing.
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White
1990 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
96 points
Fully mature expression of Chablis. Showing the 90 ripeness yet incredibly refined palate. Smoked oyster, oyster shell, lemon oil, peach, mint and crushed rock. Beautiful complexity and harmony. Drinking beautifully but better to drink sooner than later.
White
1996 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets
92 points
Very fresh example, slightly lean and cool. Fully mature but still showing good energy. Oyster shell, lemon curd and lemon oil. Drinking really well in a classic mature Meursault way.
White
2015 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne
97 points
Opulent concentrated white and yellow fruit. Coche like flint, beeswax, saline and strong wet stone. Exceptional concentration and richness yet also energetic, precise and pure. Love to serve this next to the Coche version.
White
2012 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc
94 points
En magnum. Surprisingly elegant and precise. Strong honey note, lemon and white peach, oyster shell, beeswax and fine stone dust. Rich yet energetic and fluid, good acidity and strong mineral. Showing really young and remains very fresh.
White
2005 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc l'Ermite
90 points
From 3L. Golden color which is typical. Strong orange rind, clementine, oyster shell, burnt sugar, beeswax and almond cookie. Perhaps slightly closed but I doubt it will regain energy and freshness.
White
2011 Domaine & Selection Meursault Coche-Dury
93 points
The first time I am drinking this bottling. It taste like Coche. Apple and pear, a hint of flint, beeswax and mineral. Succulent, good balance, energy and precision. Bright acidity and mineral. Delicious.
White
1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Sterimberg
93 points
Incredibly fresh example. Honey dominates with some background white fruit, also lanoline. Good balance and precision. Mouth puckering acidity. I am really liking it but Keith really doesn’t care for it. Very unique and interesting expression.
Flight 3 - Champagne (2 notes)
I decided to try the Cristals, both were brilliant.
White - Sparkling
2008 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
97 points
Combining incredibly finesse and energy. Fresh white fruit, granny smith, pear and a hint of lemon curd. Excellent concentration, fine generous mousse, bright acidity and strong mineral. Drinking exceptional well but a long life a head.
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Rosé - Sparkling
2006 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut Rosé
97 points
Perfectly harmonious nose, light red and yellow fruit, also copper, smoke, oyster shell, sweet spices and limestone. Exceptional concentration yet airy and weightless, generous fine mousse, beautiful sweet fruit, bright acidity and strong limestone mineral. Drinking beautifully in a youthful way.
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Flight 4 - Red Burgundy (9 notes)
The 91 DRC RSV was a textbook example of perfectly mature red Burgundy.
Red
1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg
97 points
Expressive youthful nose displaying intense red fruit with a hint of black, strong stem that has not been fully resolved, more animal than usual, Vosne sprice, rose, Chinese medicine, cedar and crushed rocks. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated red and black fruit, dense yet refined, perfect amount of acidity, strong mineral and a long concentrated red and black fruit driven finish with stem and Chinese medicine at the end. Still needs time.
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Red
1991 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant
97 points
Absolutely gorgeous perfectly mature Burgundy nose that we love, fully developed sous bois, fully mature red fruit that is slightly turning to yellow, essence of raspberry, strawberry water, Chinese medicine, sweet spices, shiitake, light caramel, tree bark and earth. Epitome of elegance yet expressive and harmonious. Drinking perfectly.
Red
1998 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant
93 points
Really masculine and structured Burgundy. Cherry, strong cedar, white button mushroom, only a hint of sous bois and earth. Very good concentration, a bit angular, still noticeable tannins, good acidity, earthy mineral and a medium to long slightly dry red fruit driven finish. For my palate, it still needs another decade to gain additional tertiary notes.
Red
1993 Domaine Leroy Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
94 points
Classic Leroy style with beautifully concentrated red fruit and caramel. I get cherry liqueur and strangely Chinese lacquer. Exceptional concentration, concentrated sweet red fruit, rich and dense without being heavy, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long decadent red fruit driven finish. Really delicious yet pretty serious wine, very Leroy signature but not much Chambolle.
Red
1988 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche
94 points
Medium expressive youthful nose displaying slightly dry sweet red fruit with a hint of black, strong stem, dill, Vosne spices, a hint of soy and earth. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled red fruit, slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet red fruit driven finish with stem at the end. This is a bit masculine at the moment. Perhaps wait for another five to ten years?
Red
1993 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
96 points
Expressive nose displaying decadent concentrated red fruit, raspberry, strawberry jam, Vosne spice, caramel, truffle and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of decadent red fruit, rich and dense, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a seamless long decadent red fruit driven finish with Vosne spice and caramel at the end. I love Beaux Monts from Leroy. It used to be the best value Leroy at around $250. Really yummy wine.
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Red
1995 Claude Dugat Griotte-Chambertin
97 points
Explosive hedonistic nose displaying concentrated red fruit, very meaty, sous bois, caramel, sautéed cep and earth. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated decadent red fruit, rich yet nicely detailed and precise, perfect amount of acidity, earthy mineral and a long concentrated red fruit driven finish with lingering sweetness at the end. This used to be more expensive than La Tache as it was rated like 99 by TWA. The young sommeliers were not familiar with the domaine and seem to love it. Apparently John Gilman rated the wine 72 points. Now that is funny.
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Comments (1)
Red
1999 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts
94 points
Clear purple color. Very youthful nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry and black cherry, caramel, tree bark, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled clean black fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. Another incredibly youthful example. Needs another decade as not much sous bois has developed.
Red
2001 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux
93 points
En magnum. Medium expressive nose displaying slightly dry red fruit, sous bois, sautéed mushroom and mineral. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated red fruit, rich and dense, bright acidity, strong mineral, noticeable slightly coarse tannins and a medium to long sweet red fruit driven finish. It lacks the detail that I typically get in M. Gibourg wines.
Flight 5 - 2011 La Las (3 notes)
The 11 La Landonne displayed the 11 LBT like greeness. The 11 La Las didn't show well.
Red
2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Turque
93 points
Still way too young. Primary blue fruit, beacon fat, ash, liquid smoke and earth. Very good concentration, slightly coiled blue fruit, medium acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated blue fruit driven finish. Still needs a decade or more. Perhaps the weakest vintage?
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Red
2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
91 points
Medium concentration, red and black fruit, coffee, mocha, strong green/pyrazine/LBT and earth. Medium concentration, hollow mid-palate and a medium to short finish. Reminds me some of the 11 red Burgs.
Red
2011 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
93 points
I don’t fine any green/pyrazine. Medium expressive nose displaying generous soft red fruit, a hint of olive, black pepper, lavender and mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered red fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity, good mineral presence and a medium to long warm red fruit driven finish. Still needs time.
Flight 6 - Afterwards (4 notes)
Reginald generously pulled a vertical of La Landonne. Unfortunately, I had no more energy to taste. However, I got to try the below four wines.
Red
1998 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
96 points
Intense nose displaying ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry liqueur, crushed blackberry, black cherry, raspberry concentrate, lavender, dark spices, ash, caramel, cedar and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, rich and unctuous, medium acidity, nicely integrated tannins and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with lavender at the end. It is drinking beautifully in a youthful way but a long life ahead.
Red
2003 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg
93 points
Clearly expressing the 03 ripeness, cherry liqueur, dry cherry, leather, sweet spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, rich and fat, medium acidity, earthy mineral, and a medium to long very ripe and slightly dry red cherry fruit driven finish. It taste more like Rayas than Richebourg.
Red
2009 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
97 points
Youthful intense nose displaying concentrated black fruit, a hint of roasted meat, mocha, dark spices, black pepper, lavender and crushed rock. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, silky and unctuous, good acidity and strong mineral, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with black pepper and lavender at the end. This really needs time. I imagine this will develop like the 90.
Red
1998 Noël Verset Cornas
94 points
Classic meaty Cornas, tapenade, leather, licorice and earth. Very good concentrated, layers upon layers of black fruit, silky and warm, medium acidity and strong earthy mineral, and a long sweet black fruit driven finish. Drinking beautifully.
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Closing
My sincere gratitude goes to Reginald B. There were forty to fifty guests and no one was thirty at the night's end.