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2007 Burgundy, round 2
Noize
Tasted October 8, 2020 by NickA with 140 views
Introduction
Another opportunity to luxuriate in some 2007 Burgundy
Flight 1 - Aperitif and gougeres (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2007 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année
92 points
A few years since I've tried this, and (no surprise) it's in a much nicer place than back then. Succulent but with a mineral backbone, and an overriding sense of balance. Doesn't seem young, but I'm not sure this bottle was at peak yet either. Slipped down all too easily - that's a compliment!
Flight 2 - Pan-fried Red Mullet, Spaetzle Nero, Shiso, Ginger and Chilli (2 notes)
White
2007 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
92 points
Some concern in advance about how this bottle would show, but no doubts whatsoever once poured - relatively pale straw colour and exactly what you'd want on the nose. Nice structure, plenty of lemony fruit and attractive scents of butterscotch and vanilla (from tertiary development and oak treatment, respectively). Delicious.
White
2009 Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet
91 points
Loved the vibrant yellow colour on this. As expected, a big wine, with a viscous mouthfeel; there were hints of residual sugar, and it verged on a white Rhone in style, but (like many successful whites from that region!) ultimately things finished in a cool and stony fashion.
Flight 3 - Duck Breast, Trompette Purée, Jerusalem Artichoke, Salardaise, Duck Sauce (3 notes)
Red
2007 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
94 points
Killer Burgundy - probably a touch richer and spicier than a stereotypical Volnay, but it really worked. Felt completely a point, and perfect with the duck.
Red
2007 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
flawed
Magnum - and unfortunately corked!
Red
1997 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Ursules Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
93 points
This was so youthful and easy tonight, and didn't seem nearly twice as old as the 2007s. That said, this wine definitely generated more savoury notes than the Volnay, if no sous bois/earth - tremendous accompaniment to the food. Will drink well for 5-10 years yet.
Flight 4 - Slow Cooked Beef Cheek, Pomme Purée, Red Wine Sauce (2 notes)
Red
2007 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays
92 points
That trademark Lambrays rich nose and juicy palate. Seemed right in its drinking window, and a pleasure to drink, but somehow never quite ignited or excited. May well give more pleasure in a few years, with additional complexity.
Red
2007 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Baulet
95 points
Drinking perfectly, and showing the quality of the producer - all the balance and joyous approachability of the 2007s with an extra (Bretty) aromatic twist that kept me coming back for more.
Flight 5 - Selection of Cheeses (2 notes)
Red
2007 Lucie & Auguste Lignier Clos de la Roche
93 points
Drinking really well - some tertiary elements coming through on the nose, not too full-bodied, plenty of finesse. Probably deserved more attention than I gave it.
Red
2007 Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche
92 points
Previous experience with Bernstein was a bit bruising and not hugely enjoyable, but this wine was excellent tonight - plenty of fruit and the trademark solidity of Clos de la Roche without any sense of over-extraction.
Closing
Consistent vintage character tonight: integrated sweet tannins, an easy balance, a forgiving drinking window. Perhaps a lack of stature - let alone grandeur - but so much pleasure that this hardly matters.