Delicious, simple bubbly that is focused on strawberry fruit quality (slightly tinted, thanks to the Pinot Noir), and easy accessibility. Very well-made, and commercial, but it also offers an excellent texture, and reasonable concentration.

A brilliant example of Pinot Gris - totally typical with exceptional stone fruit character. The nose is totally varietal, with the fruit quality and mineral aspects to the fore. In the mouth, this wine is beautifully ripe, and strikes a balance (too often missed) between richness and verve. The palate is totally taut in nature, but thanks to the fruit quality, it never becomes too angular. Long finish. Very primary at the moment, but still offers a complex tasting experience. Very fine.

Extraordinary wine at what I imagine is its apex of development. Opulent nose of peach, green veggies, wet stone, caramel, and white flowers. On the palate, certainly oxidative in style, but the enormity of the wine is something to behold at the moment. Rich, creamy, nuanced, and extraordinarily complex. Minute-long finish. A transfixing experience.

Last bottle, best bottle. Drunk after a profound 1999 Chave Hermitage Blanc, this wine had a lot to live up to, and it completely delivered. The cork was in perfect shape (came out in one piece - always a good start for a wine of this age), and the wine opened tightly, with a palate structure and youthful fruit quality that totally belied its 34 years of age. On the nose, perfection in old-school Napa Cabernet. Very curranty and earthy, with masses of graphite and smoke - but not at all in a Bordeaux style - this is extraordinary wine based on a very unique interpretation of Cabernet, based on its terroir. The palate feels like maybe a 15 - 20 year old wine, at most. Everything about the palate is under absolute control. The intensity level is close to off the charts, with the earthy and graphite notes very much to the fore. This has been a wine that has appeared to me to have a photo-cult style at the beginning, to a bottle which felt like its best days were either behind it, or fast approaching, to the place where this particular note is - essentially a perfect balance of fruit to tertiary development. Sad to drink this final bottle, as bottles in this condition will continue to grow in stature, I think. 98+?

Ageing effortlessly, though most likely at its peak of maturity. Stunning interpretation of Gewürztraminer - the clarity of the bouquet is quite something, and the layers of tertiary complexity, alongside the botrytis really makes this a pleasure to behold. The palate has brilliant focus - while (of course ) very sweet, the spice of the variety and the acid structure adds up to a wine that is refreshing. Not as opulent as some SGNs, but a complete wine.