Seriously dark burnt Demerara sugar colour but transparent. Gorgeous nose of burnt rubber, burnt brown sugar. Incredibly piercing acidity on the palate, so nutty, fresh grated nutmeg, very dry. Heady and resonant. Quite mind expanding. One glass is probably enough because it is very rich and concentrated. A special treat - thanks so much, David!

An old bottle from a US importer, probably at least 40 years old judging from the retro label. Almost Sauternes golden colour. Nose is almonds, almost a fermented element, aged Comte cheese that has been in the sun. Stinky socks. Palate is much more delicate and nuanced… really nice, almost like a Jura. Lots to like. Thanks Alexandria!

Clearly a well-stored bottle. Briefly opened before serving. Semi transparent jewelled ruby with no sign of bricking. Muted nose but good fruit - cranberry. Quite lifted. Palate is beautifully light, fresh and femininely elegant. Really good. It stood up well and even improved throughout the lunch. Thanks Annie!

Decanted for an hour and then re-bottled before taking to the lunch. Fully opaque, almost black cherry in colour. Nose is lovely spice box of dried powdered spices. Sandalwood. Palate is beautifully fresh and jewelled with super refreshing acidity. Very elegant. Deceptively massive resonance and reverberance that sneaks up on you gradually. Endless length. Perfect bottle I bought at a charity auction and donated by a friend who had sourced it directly from the Bodega.

Almost obliterated front label which was not surprising as it had travelled at some stage to Hong Kong via a US importer in California. Opened briefly before serving. Darker red cherry colour than the preceding 1985 and 1964 Riojas . Nose is lovely red plum fruit, oak, spice. Palate is similar but with real richness and weight. Packs a punch. Heady and resonant. Muscular. Really good and stood up exceptionally throughout a long lunch. This was the masculine member of the older Riojas. It seems bulletproof in terms of keeping for another 10 years of more. Thanks, Alexandria!

Decanted maybe an hour or two before serving (it needs much longer). This is a curiosity known amongst afficionados as a modern style Rioja where the winemaker uses a bag method to press the grapes for gentlest possible extraction. Impenetrable black/red colour. Nose is WOW….powerful new French oak, real depth of purple fruits, cocoa pod, dark and powerful and surprisingly all in balance and proportion. Palate is deep, thick, rich and very deep fruit framed in new oak. Hedonistic. Really good. Come back in 5 years, maybe 10 would be better. All the more impressive because the preceding 1964, 1975 and 1985 Riojas we drank are much more my normal preference. Thanks, Patrick!

Decanted briefly (much too briefly as it turned out) as the last wine of the lunch but drank alongside the remainders of the preceding wines (1964, 1985 and 1978 'old school' plus a 2011 'new wave' Riojas). No detailed notes except that it was lovely and seemed to be somewhere between the two preceding styles. It is still very much in its youth so I have extended the suggested window from 2020 to 2032. Thanks, Soo!