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Dinner at Osteria Langhe

Chicago, IL

Tasted July 29, 2021 by acyso with 165 views

Flight 1 (20 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Édition 168ème France, Champagne
93 points
119004. Very solid bottle of Krug, probably in the middle of the pack as far as the relatively recent releases have gone. Very Krug-like with its bready, brioche qualities, as well as some baked apple. If I don't sound excited about this, that's just in the context of Krug -- every bottle of Krug is exciting by default.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
95 points
The 2004 Krug just keeps getting better each time I taste it. It may well be reaching some sort of local peak. Spectacular intensity with generous white fruit and some scintillating acidity. At the same time, there still is plenty of the requisite breadth. An exciting bottle to the point where I may pull a few for near-future consumption.
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2002 Vincent Dancer Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Tête du Clos France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
88 points
Not a bad wine per se, but getting a little long in the tooth and tiring out. Lacks the racy acidity that I like, though there is lots of formerly fat but now browning fruit (from both the vintage and the village).
White
2015 Jean-Claude Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
93 points
An outstanding bottle of Ramonet. Very 2015, and really exemplifies why I'm bullish on the vintage. This was both racy and fat at the same time. A good dose of oak here, and not that much reduction. I didn't pick up any of that Ramonet mint (nor the egg custard that I commonly find in Ramonet's wines) today. On the palate, despite the breadth of the fruit here the acidity keeps this very fresh.
Red
1990 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
flawed
Done in by a loose cork.
Red
1969 Delas Frères Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
93 points
Not the highest hopes for this bottle given its age, though I had acquired it as a curiosity because honestly, how often do you see Hermitage with some real age on it? Incredible density and black fruit that is still somewhat fresh and not desiccated. Very meaty and somewhat smoky; this does lack some of the elegance that I prefer in my syrah, but it is quite stereotypically Hermitage.
White
2006 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
85 points
So my last note on this said that this bottle didn't suffer from the vagaries of the vintage. Well today it seems like that this bottle did. A little dirty with some rot here. A slightly off nose that presented like chlorine? It didn't seem corked to me though. Fat and honeyed. I just don't get Dauvissat.
Red
1980 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Méal France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
95 points
This was another flyer that I bought based on its sheer rarity. I didn't like this when it was opened, as it felt a little stinky and the palate was thin and acidic. But this just got better as the night wore on (despite, or in spite of, my whingeing that this wasn't a very good bottle). The fruit was fully on the red side of the spectrum, with just a hint of olive (though I would have liked more). Fully resolved with high acidity on the palate, but also no overt danger signs of decline.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1998 Cerbaiona (Molinari) Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
93 points
This bottle was far better than my last one; I'm glad that indeed the previous bottle was just off. Very dark complexioned, with just a little hint of VA that isn't too distracting. For my palate, I would have wished the fruit showed a little less stewy/old and fresher. It's possible that I got to these a few years too late as far as the fruit is concerned, but this is still quite brooding and tannic on the finish.
Red
1988 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
93 points
The rumour, I believe, is that this is one of the last Jayer wines at Méo-Camuzet. In any case, this is a wine that feels very true to the vintage. Red fruit (still moderately fresh) with some modest spice notes as well. The midpalate and finish are a little disappointing after the sweet fruit, because it thins out and there is too much tannin and acidity for the actual flavour that remains.
Red
1998 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
From magnum. Brilliant wine -- silky and svelte nebbiolo in a way that only Sandrone can do (seriously, I've never had any other "modernist" nebbiolo that I enjoy save for Sandrone's). An incredibly smooth wine with no rough edges. Perhaps lacks some of the cerebral enjoyment that I get from nebbiolo, but makes up for it in the form of visceral enjoyment.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1989 Gaja Barbaresco Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
88 points
Not too keen on this bottle; others I believe liked it more (and it did get a little better with more air later in the evening). Relatively dark fruit for nebbiolo on the nose, with a slight leathery quality. The palate is heavy but feels tired despite this bottle's relative youth. Perhaps poor storage?
Red
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
95 points
#5991. Finally, a bottle of this that I feel is truly correct. The nose is striking in its crystalline purity of red fruit (though someone quipped that there were some woodsy notes that evoked a "freshly cleaned gerbil cage"). The palate fulfills the promise of the nose perfectly; it's essentially the same crystalline red fruits with bright acidity and semi-resolved tannins. Complex and layered but never heavy or plodding, this is archetypal nebbiolo.
Red
1947 Fontanafredda Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
88 points
A little too stinky and dirty on the nose for me. The palate though is significantly better, with so much fruit on it that I would have guessed this was two or three decades younger. It's hard to imagine that this wasn't topped off or something along the way because of just how young this feels on the palate. There are even still some tannins here! At the end of the day, perhaps more a curiosity than a wine I'd truly want to drink -- there were some other more compelling nebbiolos at the table this evening.
Red
1967 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
The stemmy element I noted in the previous bottle of this I tasted isn't quite as pronounced on this bottle, but that olive/herbal lift is still clearly in this wine. This is the sort of old nebbiolo with that wonderful lightness without feeling dilute. The fruit is also still sweet; there are no signs that the palate is deteriorating at all here.
Red
1974 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
95 points
This spent about 7 hours in a decanter before dinner. While most at the table preferred the Burlotto for its beautiful perfume and lightness, I preferred the Conterno more for its weight and raw power. This is a hefty wine still showing ample concentration and lots of sweet fruit, though admittedly the fruit is starting to show some brown on the edges.
Red
1995 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
95 points
Hah - my last note on this said that this was the best bottle of Clape I remember having. Well, I'm going to revise that and say this bottle was. An absolutely explosive nose with a wealth of black fruit followed by all the things that you want in syrah with the olive tapenade being at the forefront. The palate is just the right balance of rustic, backwards winemaking and ripe fruit. This did get brettier towards the end, but those glorious initial moments with this wine more than make up for it.
Red
1959 Château Talbot France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
88 points
This is before Cordier took over, and maybe it's just me, but this definitely has some of that dirty Cordier flavour already. Some pyrazines here, but also the barnyard/bretty things. There is some black fruit, but not quite enough. The palate's pretty consistent; this indeed reminds me of my other experiences with the Cordier wines. Those aren't experiences I generally care for.
White - Fortified
1944 Cantine Florio Marsala Superiore Riserva Storica Italy, Sicily, Marsala Superiore
95 points
Bottled in 1989, #771. This is my first experience with a Marsala proper (the stuff you use for cooking doesn't count). Drinks like a fully dry, lighter-style Madeira but with more of a rounded texture on the palate and less alcohol and acidity. Fully dry, this would have been absolutely brilliant with a few dried figs and a handful of almonds. Mesmerizing.
White - Off-dry
1976 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Auslese Germany, Rheingau
93 points
#16-77. Initially I didn't quite like this because it had a bit of a bottle stink to it, but once that dissipated, it revealed a modestly sweet wine with tons of apricot/peach. Clearly some botrytis influence with the spice notes, and the residual sugar gives this a relatively unctuous texture. Given this is from the Rheingau (apparently there are other producers besides Weil!) the relative lack of acidity is not surprising, though I wouldn't say in the context of this wine that the acidity is missed too much.
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