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Dinner at Tonny's

Tonny Restaurant, Geylang Lor 3, Singapore

Tasted May 3, 2017 by Paul S with 55 views

Flight 1 - WHITES (2 notes)

White
2004 Domaine Leflaive Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
90 points
Quite a strong showing for a 13 year-old Bourgogne blanc. Served blind, I thought it was at least a village wine. The nose was typical mid-2000s Leflaive, all smoky and flinty and minerally, with a touch of ripe melons and fragrant yellow fruit along with a some flowers and lanolin. There was just something rather unusual and milk powder smelling about that bouquet, other than that, almost everyone on the table guessed Leflaive just on that nose. The palate was rather simpler, with sweet, ripe melons and lemon curd flavours all swept along on a strong spine of acidity until it finish with a little lick of minerality. Thus just lacked some of the complexity of Leflaive's better wines, but it was an astoundingly sound showing for a Bourgogne at its age. Drinking really well on the night too.
White
2007 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu
This was very good - a strong showing for the wine tonight. It had complex, but very focused nose, with a beam of chalk, cream and smoke, alongside notes of white fruit and some burnt butter. A very intriguing bouquet. The palate was round and fleshy, showing some power and ripeness in its notes of cream and white fruit and lemon zest; nut it was also very balanced and focused, with a very clean and elegant feel to its cutting through any suggestion of blowsiness. Very good - a yummy wine perched just between Burgundy and the New World. Drinking nicely at 10 years of age.

Flight 2 - REDS (6 notes)

Red
2007 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
92 points
A nice wine. This had a lovely bright nose to it, with violet flowers floating around a core of darkish fruit - think blueberries - and then a nice touch of spice at the sides. Very perfumed; this was a lovely nose. The palate was drinking in a lovely fashion too - a whole lot more open than darker-toned, slightly more rustic seeming bottle last year. Very clean, pure, in the way many of the best 2007s are showing, with blueberries at the fore, chased by a bit of orange peel, and just touch of bittersweet herb and some lifted spice notes at the finish. Drinking nicely though, this was a yummy Champans.
Red
1993 Prince Florent de Merode Corton-Renardes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
A little tired. This was still solid enough, but at this point of its evolution, it felt high on structure and rather low on charm. The nose had a sweet fragrance of sweet red-fruited raspberries and a drifts of sandalwood, along with meaty, bacon notes and a little whiff of smoke and burnt rubber. Not bad. The palate seemed to be thinning out somewhat though. A roast chicken dish managed to coax out some sweet red fruit, maybe dried strawberries, but without food, what stood out most was its firm structure, with a backbone of fine tannins, leading into a finish of stone and spice. It was clear that this used to be a rather big, sinewy wine, with a nice bit of clarity lent to it by nice acidity. Today though, while still solid enough, it was clearly tiring fast, with the fading fruit leaving behind some of the hardness of the terroir.
Red
1999 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
92 points
A nice wine, just about starting to open up. It had a lovely nose - a darker shade of Savigny I thought - with blueberries, earth and wet stone aromas floating over deep-seated undertones of spice and florals. The palate had a nice fine grip to it, with well-shaped tannins framing otherwise a really round, clear expression of blueberry fruit, maybe some sour plums after awhile in the glass. There was both a lovely fresh sweetness to this, along as well as a really nice sense of transparency. It finished with a real mouthful of spice, with a lovely grip that bodes really well for its future. A classically shaped Savigny 1er Cru. Enjoyable now, but with the potential to get quite a bit better with a few more years in the bottle.
Red
2004 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
92 points
This was one of those 2004 wines that have not quite shed their green meanies. If you can live with those though, you will get an otherwise well-made and enjoyable Chambolle 1er Cru. The nose was typical 2004, with notes of powdered Chinese herb and other green brambly tones floating around aromas of dried flowering fruit - think sour plums - spice and earth. The palate had another little touch of green bramble and herb to it, maybe ginseng, but past that, there was a nice bit of sweet red fruit and a kiss of spice framed by fine, powdery tannins and some juicy acidity. A nicely refined structure. There was a good sense of power and depth to this as well, all leading into a nicely full, and quite fine finish. Green aside, this was a fine Fuees, drinking nicely now.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1990 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
92 points
Pretty good. This had a nice nose; very Gevrey in character, with notes of fresh red-fruit, like sweet raspberries and strawberries, and then a dried floral hint and a blush of herb. The palate had more sweet dried strawberries, and then little sprinkles of herb and spice, all held up with a nice chew of structure. A juicy and delicious and delicious wine, nothing super complex, but still nicely interesting. About time to drink up though.
Red
2002 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
92 points
Consistently good, this held up a nicely savoury nose of spice, earth and toast, alongside a waft of dark berries. The palate was fresh, juicy and chewy, with a nice structure of fine tannins and juicy, orange citrus acidity forming a backdrop for notes of dark berries backed up by more savoury notes of meat and mineral, maybe a twist of dried orange orange peel. This felt very whole, very full in the mouth - a nicely complete wine. Nice finish too, with a hint of spice, and a lovely deep-seated minerality. While showing decently on the night, there is a long way to go with this yet - it should be even better in another 5-6 years.

Flight 3 - SWEET (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Château Guiraud France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
92 points
Very nice without quite being spectacular. I have had bottles of the 2005 Guiraud which were both a little poorer and a little better than this one. Still though, a nice sweet ending to the meal. I liked the nose. It led with sweet notes of honey and dried stone fruit surrounded by more savoury notes of spice, cloves and pepper. Really interesting. The palate was marked by a lovely juiciness that kept the wine really fresh in spite of showing plenty of good weight in its notes of apricots and honey, spice and toast, all leading into nicely satisfying finish. Still youthful, with just a bit of secondary complexity starting to show. It has the freshness and depth to age very nicely into the next few decades though.
4 people found this helpful Comment
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