1671/3206. Random addition in the 1989 lineup, this 1993 aroma is however a lot more Leroy than the rest; cherry-driven acidity, plum, high toned spice, toasted wood, all the wonderful bouquet that makes this a classic vintage for Madame. Crispy if drying on the palate, time to drink up. 93-94

1197/3876. Nose is a lot more reserved than later vintages, more earthy and woody character, purple fruit, less flamboyant spice. The palate however displays what this vineyard can achieve, with tremendous energy and layers building up back and forth. Finesse and power. 94

4082/9064. Consistent with the vintage, this does not offer the classic Leroy spice and cherry fruit, but shows somewhat even firmer tannin than the CdV on the side, and is certainly of grand cru on the palate. Interesting comparison from the early days. 93

10079/20532. Not sure if a bottle condition problem but where is my pronounced LT spice and elegance? Dark fruit, baked plum, woody, somewhat tired. However, very good structure, somewhat regal even, and notable among the same vintage lineup. (Questionable provenance as discovered on second day.) 92?

Huge surprise given my lower expectations of the earlier Mugnier vintages. Minty, herbal, cool, quite refreshing among live red fruit flavors. Quite a grip on the palate, displaying tremendous energy and elegance quintessential to the vineyard. Not a big wine but quite a charming one. 93-94

PnP, huge again, with time in glass resolving into superbly clear juice. Just a touch of leathery woodiness for the road. 95+

Sesame, white flowers, peach, yellow fruit. Just classic classic 90s Leflaive, opulent, sweet and with those characteristic creamy flavors. Rich, sweet and precise on the palate supported by the perfectly balanced vintage acidity. Pinching sharp finish. More please. 94-95

Delicious. So young still, compact black fruit, spice, touch woody. Super clean and complete. Silky smooth revealing great backbone. What did Jadot do in 85? With that said, sure not as layered if one puts a Rousseau the side, but everything else is delicious here. 94-95

Cheese wine. Blue cheese then gruyère according to a friend, which is awfully specific. With time showing some acidity on the palate, thankful to the maker’s style, and some earthy notes behind the cheesy ones. Even lightly sappy. Very high fill and purchased from a reputable cellar (quite a rare production, too,) so I don’t know what happened, but then this is the wine life!

Served blind, 05305/5440. Only correct guess of the flight. My initial reaction is a big smile from how perfumed the wine is, so opulent, so much rose, so lacy, and so different from some of the early vintages Leroy drank three days prior. With every new pour it offers a cooler and toner profile, some blue fruit hidden there, even slight meatiness, while staying sappy and grippy. Now it is definitely less Vosne, and drinking in the zone. Great dimensions all around. 95

Served blind, 18629/20405. As with rest of the flight, it started very Leroy, lychee, cherry, oh-so-spicy. New pours isolate some different characters, even higher & more lacy acidity, linear, drier tannins. It is Vosne but not so much more so than the rest on the nose, so we really had to rely on the palate to guess, and were all wrong. I was deciding between Chambolle and NSG, and it was hard to tell from the tannin structure that this is what happens from mixing Richebourg and a lot of village juice. Great wine, of course, but totally different from my experience where I used to like this cuvée the most. 94-95

Served blind, 01898/7857. Dark horse, truly, blew everyone’s mind and explained why we decided to serve these blind. Nobody guessed NSG, the usual stony or even any slightly rough characters are so far in the background that all one can focus on is the pure sappy spicy red-fruit juice. No grand cru in the blend here; who cares? Incredible amount of energy and dimensions on the palate, just containing itself and kept growing bigger. Best drinking wine today, so good. 95-96

Served blind, 02839/3313. Last of the flight and everyone got it right (because the other three had been revealed…lol) Three months ago PnP I thought this is an intellectual & shy wine, and today I learn it is more than that, that with enough air/age, it is a mindblowing. Early pours suggested red fruit, spice, lychee, a touch of woodiness (briefly I wondered whether this was the Vosne,) but it really woke up after the third or fourth round. Like wow, I didn’t find that meatiness earlier, and this elegance, and this balance with the high-toned acidity! So many flavors are just hidden under plain sight. It has a huge structure underneath to encapsule all the nuances still developing. Not a surprise tho, really, what Musigny can do… So what 2004? Green? Acidity? Grassy? Fresh? No problems, all handled. This bottle is simply an exceptional piece of art. BS it can’t age. 96-97+