Some serious champagnes
Tasted December 10, 2021 by melvinyeowq with 192 views
Introduction
With the festive period approaching, we decided to take things up a notch a little with a serious champagne theme. The dinner reiterated why I love champagnes so much - they can be serious, contemplative wines that are so easy to pair with food. If you haven't had the opportunity to try a good champagne, there is a remarkable wealth of options now beyond the awful mass-market ones from DFS that most people are used to. To me, it is the most exciting wine region at the moment with both houses and growers making great strides in the quality of their wines. In my notes, I ranked the wines in order of preference but at this level really it is splitting hairs and a matter of stylistic preference.
And we were lucky enough to have two Krugs on the same night. Based on my experience so far it also reinforced the fact for me that out of the big three houses, Krug is the easiest to understand, followed by Dom and Cristal (which admittedly I still struggle with).
Flight 1 (8 notes)
White - Sparkling
2004 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
Thought this was very similar in style to a Billecart Nicolas Francois that I had last year but even better which made me think it might be a Krug. Opened a couple of hours in advance, this was rich and toasty, with a nose of mushrooms and brioche. Very young still, this showed only a glimpse of its potential. The volume of the wine creeps up on you, the intensity and the drive of the finish was outstanding. Others preferred it with a little more air but I liked it a lot from the first pour. Another wonderful 2004 to cement the year as one of my favourite champagne vintages.
White - Sparkling
2010 Marguet Sapience
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Brilliant champagne that belied the weak vintage. Easy to tell that it was a high-quality grower - perfectly ripe fruit with very low dosage, was thinking of something like Prevost with the red apple note. Round and full mouthfeel but still retained elegance and sapidity. Another one that was too young but with enormous potential.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvee Edition 169eme
France, Champagne
This was so lean and racy that most people including myself thought it was a grower champagne. More immediacy than the Krug 2004, the crispness and zesty fruits were more apparent from the beginning. Yet to develop the creaminess and power associated with Krug but this was so delicious and balanced that it definitely wasn’t a crime to open this so young.
White - Sparkling
2008 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Got overshadowed by the two Krugs but when I tasted this on opening I was very impressed by the richness and purity of fruit. Still very tight, some hints of the signature Vilmart hedonism and sweetness that was kept in check by the acid from the vintage. Went very well with the seafood, this won't win a finesse contest but I love this producer for its forward pleasure.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Fût de Chêne MV12
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
This was way over the top compared to a MV07 I tried previously. A nutty texture that was a little too thick and creamy. Impressively built but needs time for the oak to integrate and to shed its baby fat. Think I also prefer more refinement compared to this bruiser of a wine.
White - Sparkling
2017 Chevreux-Bournazel Champagne La Parcelle Sans Sulfite
France, Champagne
100% Pinot Meunier. Didn't like this much, very natty almond nose. On the palate the fruit was ripe but ultimately it ended up rather thinand one-dimensional. The normal cuvee a while back was much better and more classicallyproportioned. Only 260 bottles produced so I presume the pricing is on scarcity rather than quality.
White
2020 Domaine Robert Sirugue Bourgogne-Aligoté
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Opened as an aperitif. I guessed Sauvignon Blanc on this based on a friend's mantra that if is not very good, it must be Sauvignon Blanc. Very green, high acid especially on the back end once the fruit faded, not the biggest fan of this.
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