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Burgundy WIMPS 2022

La Trompette, Chiswick

Tasted July 29, 2022 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 137 views

Flight 1 - Fizz (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2013 Breaky Bottom Cuvée Cornelis Hendriksen United Kingdom, England, Sussex, West Sussex
89 points
Lovely stuff to start the lunch, this was a rare chance to try an ESW with a bit of bottle age, this opens up with a charming lemon and honeysuckle nose with some lightly toasted white breadcrumbs. Palate is pleasingly dry with a flinty, wet stone minerality and good length. With time some lime cordial emerges and then some gooseberry fool. I don’t normally think about mousse and persistence of bubbles but this wasn’t very bubbly to begin with this became a still wine after an hour or so in the glass. This is still very pleasurable and has a lemon Barley water character. “New balls, please!” A lovely start to the afternoon.

Flight 2 - Whites (4 notes)

White
2005 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
91 points
Second bottle in the last couple of weeks and very similar bottles. There is a little reduction on pouring but that blows away in seconds revealing a very well balance and fully mature Chablis ; this could be nothing else. Really like the texture here, great bredth and focus. With time in the glass some tangerine emerges and then some kumquat. Good stuff.
White
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
92 points
Grapefruit pith and wet stones on the nose, palate is perfectly poised and understated. This is so classy and one senses with time ahead although lovely right now. With some time in the glass and as it warms slightly a peach kernel character emerges and some chalkiness. Very good.
White
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin La Pucelle Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin
93 points
Charming purity to this, there is a wet stone character and a capful of Rose’s lime cordial in a litre of water. Once more this is beatifully balanced and a lovely match for the Zander. With time a really distinctive Lime Tree (Tilleul / Linden not citrus) character emerges on the nose and I am transported back to Kayersberg in early June where an avenue of blossoming Lime trees greeted me with the same aromas. There’s not much in it but I slightly prefer this PYCM today. Excellent wine.
White
2011 Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
92 points
Some toasted brown breadcumbs with a buttery edge greets this wine which is rich and poised. Palate has the broadest feel to it of any of the whites. This really opens out and with time a little grapefruit juice freshness emerges with the subtlest touch of vanilla. After an hour in the glass there is a little rose water and some bruised taragon leaves. Lovely.

Flight 3 - Junior Reds (2 notes)

Red
2005 Domaine Denis Mortet Marsannay Les Longeroies France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
92 points
This is a joy. It opens with some icing sugar dusted blueberries on the nose. There is a little almondy sweetness almost in the Bakewell Tart spectrum and something spicy, someone suggests star anise – they’re bang on. The oak is well done and on the modern side but not OTT or particularly new worldy. With some air a grated dark milk chocolate note emerges with a little coconot from that oak. After an hour in the glass there is something ever so slightly resinous. Pine nuts ? A little strawberry bon-bon too. Fab.
Red
2010 Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Arvelets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
91 points
First bottle not right and the reserve was summoned from the subs bench. The nose has some iris and morello cherry. Later some freshly sliced plum and freshly ground white pepper. Palate is refreshing and cool fruited and has great length. Some sous bois and and cinnamon casia bark emerges. Later some green bell pepper and a little breasaola emerge. Have plenty of these from more recent vintages but these two were my only 2010s – if I had more I would think they have at least a decade of improvement ahead.

Flight 4 - Senior Reds (3 notes)

Red
2007 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
93 points
This is great from the first sip. Sous bois with the caramelised redcurrants on the nose to start as well as some charred cherries. Palate has good bite and the acidity is perfectly balanced with the fine and more-ish tannins. There’s some bacon fat too and a suggestion of blood orange marmelade. A little rhubarb emerges in time. A lovely drop.
Red
2006 Domaine Francois Lamarche Clos Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
93 points
This is also fabulous. There is a charming florality that complements the power that underpins this. Rose, maybe some iris. Underneath there is a beef tea richness and some redcurrant fruit tartness. Lovely with the beef. With some air there is something a little spicy, cinnamon I think and the slightest hint of peppermint oil and some crushed almonds. After an hour in the glass there is a little apple and blackcurrent squash. Has time ahead.
Red
1996 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
flawed
There is a cool blueberry coulis character to this wine with a little iodine but also a suggestion of TCA. Sadly with time this just doesn’t move on. Only a 1/10 taint but very persistant. Grrr lovely wine underneath.

Flight 5 - Brucey Bonus Fizz with Pud (1 note)

Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Premier Cru Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
90 points
A lovely and generous bonus wine from Tom. I am brought back to my childhood with a distinct Corona cherryade character to the nose. There is a freshly cored Bramley apple thing too. Strawberry bonbon. Lovely.

Closing

Thanks to all for their wines

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