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Simon Beatty Memorial Dinner - Chablis Le Clos
Noizé
Tasted February 22, 2023 by lozatron with 156 views
Flight 1 - Gougères (2 notes)
White
2014 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard
Served from magnum - poured first as the Champagne was held up underground. This was lovely, some lemon, lemon curd, precision and acidity. This was the wine that won the famous chardonnay shoot out and one could see why. Promising start.
White - Sparkling
2010 Caillez-Lemaire Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Cuvee Jadis Millésime
On the nose, lots of zip. Veering towards the natural but very well put together - linearity, some bite, just a hint of bruised apple.
Flight 2 - Smoked Haddock Mousse (2 notes)
This was like some kind of steamed dumpling, absolutely delicious. Feels like something I should try at home...
White
1996 Domaine Francois et Antoine Jobard Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Deep yellow colour that may make one wary. No need to fear though, this is just as if should be - more poise than I usually associate with Meursault, a hint of candied lemon perhaps and some richness in the mouth. A reminded of just how fulfilling aged white burg can be...and cheers to you Mr Beatty.
White
2011 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
I rarely drink Chablis these days, and this wine suggested I perhaps should more often. Pale colour, "pure and charming" is how a fellow diner described it, and I agree. The nose in particular was understated in a way that made it easy to pick out the different elements of it, in particular the faint ecclesiastical whiff which I assume comes from a sensitive oak treatment. This was a treat.
Flight 3 - Wild Boar Ragout (2 notes)
Red
1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
My notes show I tried this just a couple of months ago, and believed that to have been a good bottle. Well - this was even better. Just everything you want from a mature claret. Has this got much more to give? Not sure - I don't think it's going to get much better, but this is just great right now. Served as an excellent partner to its grander flightmate.
Red
1996 Château Mouton Rothschild
This was my red wine of the year last year, and I think this bottle was even better. Just transcendent - still on the upslope, and this ever so slightly unresolved spice from the oak that suggests this could go on forever. Thank you MH for sharing, this was the vinous highlight of a superb dinner.
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Flight 4 - Beef Rump (3 notes)
Red
2000 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale
Stand out favourite of the Cornas trio. Blood and iron there, a spine tingling zing of acidity. This was lovely.
Red
2005 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale
Hmmm - somewhat disappointed with this. My wine, and looking at previous notes, i think that something was not quite right with this bottle. Just a bit too glossy and polished - it's hard to know what kind of fault, though, would leave a wine like that? A vinous mystery - I would have opened my backup but we were very well served by this point. I will drink the backup in the next few weeks to see if it performs as it should.
Red
2006 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale
Ah that's more like it. Not where the 2000 is, hard to know whether that is youth or just that this wine doesn't have *quite* the stuffing of its millennial flightmate - perhaps just a little less of that thrilling acidity. Anyway - top marks and thank you.
Flight 5 - Cheese (2 notes)
Red
2000 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
We are getting deep into the evening now - it's not so much that the senses are dulled, but rather the conviviality and spirit of the evening is more joyous than contemplative. With that said, it's a savoury treat to go back to red Chateuneuf, something I loved earlier in my wine career. I was struck by how much the pleasure this gives is similar to that of Musar - a kind of non-tannic, non-acidic structure.
Red
1989 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes
Again, a savoury treat, and the type of wine that I don't drink anymore, and they don't make anymore. Certainly on the downslope and falls away a little quickly, but a treat to drink and share.
Closing
A thoroughly lovely evening spend with friends. Huge thanks to G for organising and paying such a lovely tribute, to my tablemates for their generosity and to all of my dining companions for a wonderful, convivial evening.
Chapeau too to the restaurant, who did a sterling job.