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The Four Seasons Tasting Bordeaux First Growths
Aubergine Restaurant
Tasted July 28, 2015 by rikipedia with 55 views
Introduction
A look at a number of the left bank First growths, in particular Haut Brion. Introduction: Haut Brion established in 1585, 260 hectares, 38 under vine, was the most expensive at the time. Dillon bought it in 1936 and innovated stainless steel in 1960. Each hectare has 10-15 different clones. Competition with La Mission who bought it in 1983. 48 ha reds: Prod: 10-12,000 cases, 800-900 cases haut brion Blanc. 10,000 cases of second wines. 3 generations of winemaking.
Margaux: bought in 16th century and wine production. 18 century, 1/3 is vines, 87 hectares bought in 1976 by supermarket chain. ch. margaux 1787 broke insured for $235,000
Prod : 75% CS, etc. also 150,000 bottles 1st growth , pavillon, rouge 200,000 bottles,
Lafite: 1234 history, later purchased 16th , rothschild bought in 1698, $156,000 1787
107 ha. 35,000 cases of which 15-20000 1st growth.
Latour: 1330 occupied, sold to Pearson group invested heavily, 1989 sold to £110m to ?
18,000 cases grand vin, 11,000 forts de la tour
Mouton Rothschild: elevated in 1973, massive lobbying, prod: 203 ha, of vine.
Flight 1 - 2004 to 2008 Haut Brion (3 notes)
Red
2008 Château Haut-Brion
92 points
(Tasted Blind): 50 CS, 41 Merlot; 9 CF. Mid to deep ruby-coloured wine, the bouquet is intense with aromas of red cherry, blueberry, redcurrant, cedar, spices and toasty oak.
The palate enters with a pure fruit character, notable oak and whilst ripe, there has a tad of green elements suggesting a cooler year with cold, clammy clay joining some bright red-oriented fruits, almost slightly bipolar ripeness of sweet fruit and sour cherry skins and cherry stone. The acidity is more piercing than expected with a mineral lift, the texture is relatively thick, and the wine has decent fruit depth yet only medium length. Good concentration, I liked the line of the wine, and there are some lovely notes of cedar, cigar even ferrous with hessian tannins and a prickle of alcohol. This wine is still tight and primary, mineral-driven with a bright red fruit character and reasonable structure, but it needs more time to reach its full potential.
The palate enters with a pure fruit character, notable oak and whilst ripe, there has a tad of green elements suggesting a cooler year with cold, clammy clay joining some bright red-oriented fruits, almost slightly bipolar ripeness of sweet fruit and sour cherry skins and cherry stone. The acidity is more piercing than expected with a mineral lift, the texture is relatively thick, and the wine has decent fruit depth yet only medium length. Good concentration, I liked the line of the wine, and there are some lovely notes of cedar, cigar even ferrous with hessian tannins and a prickle of alcohol. This wine is still tight and primary, mineral-driven with a bright red fruit character and reasonable structure, but it needs more time to reach its full potential.
Red
2006 Château Haut-Brion
94 points
(Tasted Blind): A mid+/deep garnet colour running to a slight orange rim. The nose is more tertiary and complex, with some pomace & raisin, forest fruit (more black fruits than red), undergrowth and comes across as brooding.
An elegant wine on entry, there is a thick, powdery, sticky texture with herbal notes, very ripe sweet black fruit (almost overripe), cassis with a tertiary overlay more so than expected at 10 years old. A fresh lemon acidity rises underneath the wine and gives lift whilst the mid-palate has length and reflects classic Pessac with a little more muscle and power and width to the solid tannin structure. Full-bodied, with fair concentration, this feels denser in line with its quality. At this point the wood is well integrated giving a cedar edge, and balances the ripeness of fruit with an elegant feel. Fabulously long, the wine improved in glass and will still need more time to open further.
An elegant wine on entry, there is a thick, powdery, sticky texture with herbal notes, very ripe sweet black fruit (almost overripe), cassis with a tertiary overlay more so than expected at 10 years old. A fresh lemon acidity rises underneath the wine and gives lift whilst the mid-palate has length and reflects classic Pessac with a little more muscle and power and width to the solid tannin structure. Full-bodied, with fair concentration, this feels denser in line with its quality. At this point the wood is well integrated giving a cedar edge, and balances the ripeness of fruit with an elegant feel. Fabulously long, the wine improved in glass and will still need more time to open further.
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Comments (2)
Red
2004 Château Haut-Brion
91 points
A mid+ garnet to cherry coloured wine with a heady, aromatic nose of milk chocolate, sweet red fruits, and blackcurrant. The wine has less undergrowth and more tertiary notes, as well as a spicy, clean aroma than the 2006. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly youthful, but lacks mid-palate depth, with a more sinewy blackcurrant skin texture, crisp acidity and narrower yet coarser, seagrass tannins perhaps more gravelly as it opened. More medium-bodied than full with more red fruits than black, earthier, it feels quite athletic and finer boned than the 2006. However, I found the wine less integrated and not as long in the mid-palate nor exit and there is a metallic grasp to it along with a woody tree bark element and green, herbal edge that didn’t live up to the quality of wine 1 and 2. Perhaps reflecting the more classic 2004 vintage it certainly was fresher with a mineral edge and standing upright with a stronger spine. It did take time to open and improve but to me never quite as intense or deep as the first two wines.
Flight 2 - 2001 (4 notes)
Red
2001 Château Haut-Brion
96 points
(Tasted Blind): The 2001 is mid+ black garnet wine showing lifted red and black fruits, quite attractive with a tertiary element alongside bitter and milk chocolate. The entry is full-bodied, with more power than expected and a firmness to the texture. A solid structure with thick yet super fine-grained tannins encase plenty of tertiary forest fruit, ripe blueberries, chocolate and cedar - certainly red fruits to show more Merlot. Plenty of mouth coating material and structural building blocks, this is classic and deeply concentrated. Yet is maintains a fleshy, attractive core that shows power but restraint. Some felt it had a volatility that I didn’t pick up. Rather the wine had grace and an incredible length that showed its class and reflected the 2001 vintage. Superb! Made up of 45.4% Merlot, 43.9% CS, 9.7% CF, 1% PV.
Red
2001 Château Margaux
95 points
Medium black-red with garnet hints on the rim suggesting some evolution.
The bouquet opens with the enticing aroma of wafer biscuits and toast, showing noticeable new oak influence (roasted coffee beans). Fairly perfumed, the entry is a delightful dance of red and black fruits, exhibiting a lifted nature and allure that captivates. The texture is porcelain-like, svelte, and pretty. A juiciness emerges in the mid-palate, accompanied by fleshy yet firm tannins. The wine boasts fabulous fruit presence at its core, still displaying youthful qualities while slowly incorporating tertiary tones. I found red cherries, redcurrants, and a hint of blackcurrants as well as earth, spice, cedarwood, coffee grinds and toasty oak. There is decent concentration and I found the wine maintains a sense of fluidity with a lively acidity providing a supportive balance in the background.
Some may find the spicy oak slightly overpowering, but I found the overall impression enchanting.
In conclusion, expressing its potential requires more time and further integration. Compact yet elegant tannins, there is a svelte refinement over raw power and a fabulous length on the palate.
70 CS.
The bouquet opens with the enticing aroma of wafer biscuits and toast, showing noticeable new oak influence (roasted coffee beans). Fairly perfumed, the entry is a delightful dance of red and black fruits, exhibiting a lifted nature and allure that captivates. The texture is porcelain-like, svelte, and pretty. A juiciness emerges in the mid-palate, accompanied by fleshy yet firm tannins. The wine boasts fabulous fruit presence at its core, still displaying youthful qualities while slowly incorporating tertiary tones. I found red cherries, redcurrants, and a hint of blackcurrants as well as earth, spice, cedarwood, coffee grinds and toasty oak. There is decent concentration and I found the wine maintains a sense of fluidity with a lively acidity providing a supportive balance in the background.
Some may find the spicy oak slightly overpowering, but I found the overall impression enchanting.
In conclusion, expressing its potential requires more time and further integration. Compact yet elegant tannins, there is a svelte refinement over raw power and a fabulous length on the palate.
70 CS.
Red
2001 Château Lafite Rothschild
94 points
Mid to deep black garnet. A subtle bouquet combines dried flowers, cedar and chalk dust morphing into chocolate buttons and coffee beans coated in bitter chocolate. It is relatively youthful with less noted development than some of the other bottles.
A full-bodied entry with an excellent depth of fruit and a brooding sensation underscored by lively delineated acidity. It is intense with graphite, pencil shavings, tilled soil, forest floor and crushed gravel over some black fruits.
Powerful with concentration and weight in the mid-palate, the wine has dense mouth-coating tannins that, with the fruit, aren't entirely integrated and approachable but have the material to build and will make progress over the next decade. Persistent finish, as it opened, became a little more perfumed, almost delicate, with the blue flowers joined by red.
86.5 CS; 13.5 Merlot
A full-bodied entry with an excellent depth of fruit and a brooding sensation underscored by lively delineated acidity. It is intense with graphite, pencil shavings, tilled soil, forest floor and crushed gravel over some black fruits.
Powerful with concentration and weight in the mid-palate, the wine has dense mouth-coating tannins that, with the fruit, aren't entirely integrated and approachable but have the material to build and will make progress over the next decade. Persistent finish, as it opened, became a little more perfumed, almost delicate, with the blue flowers joined by red.
86.5 CS; 13.5 Merlot
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Comment
Red
2001 Château Latour Grand Vin
98 points
Mid to deep garnet: Complex, intense, brooding bouquet displaying earth, dark fruits and smashed rocks. The entry is powerful, masculine and mysterious! Full-bodied with a fabulous frame of solid, dense iron-clad tannins. This soaring-high wine has vertiginous fresh acidity, giving depth and fantastic concentration yet never appearing heavy. Impressive and precise, like an athletic javelin thrower, the flavours are blackcurrant, oak hints, and graphite, presented in pure form. Incredible length and continues to impress.
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Comments (2)
Flight 3 - 1999 (2 notes)
Red
1999 Château Mouton Rothschild
92 points
Mid to deep garnet with mahogany edges. The bouquet is notably tertiary, with aromas of earth, forest floor, smoke, and marmite spread on toast.
Full-bodied, potent with a sinewy texture that resembles more a shot-putter than the javelin thrower of the Latour. It feels more aggressive, with pronounced tannins enhanced by its fresh acidity. Plenty of cedarwood, smoke with pulverised stone given to a more classic Bordeaux. However, it has a polish or sheen that resembles an overpolished marble statue. Despite its layers and evident pedigree, it has some detracting elements of animal, feral, sticking plaster and sweet fruit that take away the edge. I found it relatively easy to drink, medium-bodied and lacks mid-palate density and depth of its status.
Cold soak for 3threeweeks before fermentation ts a blend of 78 CS, 18 Merlot and 4 CF.
Full-bodied, potent with a sinewy texture that resembles more a shot-putter than the javelin thrower of the Latour. It feels more aggressive, with pronounced tannins enhanced by its fresh acidity. Plenty of cedarwood, smoke with pulverised stone given to a more classic Bordeaux. However, it has a polish or sheen that resembles an overpolished marble statue. Despite its layers and evident pedigree, it has some detracting elements of animal, feral, sticking plaster and sweet fruit that take away the edge. I found it relatively easy to drink, medium-bodied and lacks mid-palate density and depth of its status.
Cold soak for 3threeweeks before fermentation ts a blend of 78 CS, 18 Merlot and 4 CF.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Red
1999 Château Margaux
96 points
Deep garnet, the nose offers Fresh, ripe, intense black and red fruits with hints of liquorice, worn leather and spice. Perfumed.
The entry is svelte and seamless, fine-bone porcelain tannins with refinement, richness, and a fleshiness of fruit weight. A finely toned athlete, this is a chariot of fruit, flesh, and verve. Medium to full-bodied with a firm structure, the mid-palate has layers of fleshy fruit complexed with liquorice, Victoria plum, blackcurrant and boysenberry, dry spices and a touch of tobacco and mint. Some oak is also noted on the extended length of this utterly alluring wine.
The entry is svelte and seamless, fine-bone porcelain tannins with refinement, richness, and a fleshiness of fruit weight. A finely toned athlete, this is a chariot of fruit, flesh, and verve. Medium to full-bodied with a firm structure, the mid-palate has layers of fleshy fruit complexed with liquorice, Victoria plum, blackcurrant and boysenberry, dry spices and a touch of tobacco and mint. Some oak is also noted on the extended length of this utterly alluring wine.
1 person found this helpful
Comment
Flight 4 - 1995 and 1998 (2 notes)
Red
1995 Château Latour Grand Vin
98 points
Deep garnet with a black-red hue. The nose is intense and brooding, with red fruits and tertiary notes gradually unfolding. Draws you in with its richness and captivating presence. Full-bodied and powerful, displaying concentrated layers of black fruit, immensely dense with incredible weight, depth of tannins, and a lengthy mid-palate that coats the mouth and lingers endlessly. Flavours of dark chocolate (90%), aniseed, saline, herb, mineral and some wild elements.
1995 is a massively structured wine with impressive length and a seamless blade of the finest-grained tannins; it is muscular yet elegant, reminiscent of an Olympic swimmer and with remarkable fruit concentration.
1995 is a massively structured wine with impressive length and a seamless blade of the finest-grained tannins; it is muscular yet elegant, reminiscent of an Olympic swimmer and with remarkable fruit concentration.