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UK Wine Pages - Vintage Pairs Offline

Le Colombier, Kensington, London

Tasted June 20, 2008 by Paul D with 814 views

Flight 1 (2 notes)

White
2006 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Pale/medium lemon. Sweet, peachy nose, slightly floral. Full bodied on the palate, only moderate acidity, peachy, reasonable length finish. Not really my thing, lacks freshness and grace.
White
2003 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Similar colour to the 06. Slightly more lemony and fresh on the nose, still with peachy, floral notes. Full bodied, peachy palate, subdued acidity again, but this one very long on the finish, some slightly bitter notes. Actually slightly better balanced than the 06. Still not rieslng as I know it though.

Flight 2 (2 notes)

White
2000 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Too cold when first served, again reiticent on the nose, some creamy oak, quite fresh and underlying rich, ripe fruit. Restrained on the palate, good acidity on a slightly lemony finish. Very good but not really attention grabbing enough for this format.
White
1991 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Medium straw, hint of gold. Attractive, bright healthy colour. Complex, fresh, slightly herbal nose with hints of spice and underlying fruit. Dies a little on the palate, does lack a little class - but this is still very much alive and has held up well.

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Red
2004 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Deep ruby, narrow bright ruby rim. Lovely pure, quite red-toned fruit on the nose, creamy vanilla oak notes but not overdone. Fruit comes across as quite plummy on the palate, medium-full bodied, firm acidity, tannins still dominate a tight finish but this shows real promise. Needs at least 5 years.
Red
1997 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Noticeably more developed, quite bretty, earthy with meat fat notes. Medium bodied palate, decent fresh acidity, moderate length finish. Nothing special but drinkable in a very 97 kind of way.

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
1993 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Complex, spicy, earthy nose, hints of iron and a slight note of coffee. Underlying sweet strawberry fruit - really lovely nose. Light/medium bodied, actually quite lean on the palate (perhaps just after the claret?), nice and savoury, some strawberry and raspberry fruit, decent fresh acidity, nice complex finish with those irony/earthy notes again. Coming together nicely, but still needs a few years to fully harmonise. Excellent.
Red
2001 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Dark, rich, slightly earthy nose. Definite richness, even a hint of chocolate. On the palate dark fruit again, plum and black cherry, but really nice, sumputous adidity and quite long. Quite oaky now but has all the ingredients for the long haul. VGI/Excellent.

Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1996 Clos du Marquis France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Deep ruby core, medium rim. Spice, gravel, dark cassis fruit on the nose - obviously left bank. Quite youthful and nice pure fruit. Similar cassis dominated palate, but nice gravelly complexity, lovely fresh acidity and decent depth. Still quite tannic on the finish. Excellent, quite classy, punching above its weight.
Red
1985 Clos du Marquis France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
flawed
Overt cork taint on the nose. Much less marked on the palate, but fruit is stripped and finish short.

Flight 6 (1 note)

Red
1955 Château Lanessan France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
Deep garnet, wide pale rim. Very developed volatile nose, oxidative. Some mint. Tannic, tired palate, not much left in the tank here.
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