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2010 Red Burgundy
Allen & Overy, London
Tasted November 16, 2023 by NickA with 105 views
Introduction
A survey of the vintage organised by the Solicitors' Wine Society as its grander wines come into their drinking windows.
The wines were opened around an hour before we started the first flight and checked, but not decanted.
Flight 1 - Warm-up (1 note)
Red
2010 Domaine Joseph Roty Bourgogne Cuvée Pressonnier
90 points
A straightforward, and straightforwardly enjoyable wine. Brightly-fruited nose, which didn't show much tertiary development; perhaps a gentle waft of smoke? A little bit of florality on the palate, pleasing acidity and a relatively short (though succulent) finish. Refreshing, well-made and not at all rustic. No rush here!
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Flight 2 - Chambolle Premier Crus (2 notes)
Red
2010 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
93 points
Much more bricking than the Bourgogne (and its flight-mate), and a lot more development immediately obvious on the nose, which was soulful, somewhat meaty, and oh so pretty. The palate was harmonious and fine-boned, with high acidity, a blood/iron note and a silky finish. Classic Chambolle, although I fear this wine may now have peaked (~10 bottles showed consistently across the room).
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Red
2010 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes
90 points
Les Feusselottes is higher than Les Charmes, but has a heavier soil and thus actually tends to produce heavier wines. OK, the producer style certainly will have played a part, but that was utterly borne out tonight, with this wine being rather foursquare. A delicate, musky nose. Rather tannic on first sip, although that did abate a fair bit with time in glass. Lots of red fruit, which felt slightly smudged, and a chewy, juicy finish. Mildly disappointing.
Flight 3 - Vosne Premier Crus (2 notes)
Red
2010 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
93 points
Unlike the destemmed Feusselottes, this wine is 100% whole-bunch. Lifted, delicate, berry-fruited nose, with dusky flowers and baking spice coming through. Initially rather solid and weighty, though shapely too, with a savoury note from the stems and a noble, stony quality. With air, the wine lightened up and became increasingly sexy. I'd say this was barely ready, and will improve over the next 5-10 years. Classy Burgundy, and probably my second-favourite wine tonight.
Red
2010 Maison Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts Domaine du Clos Frantin
92 points
Bright, mentholated nose. Much more austere and dark-toned than the Suchots (characteristically), taut and leanly-muscled, grippy and energetic, with a touch of charcoal biscuit on the finish. Well-crafted and sophisticated, and certainly enjoyable, but will be a few years before this dense, Pauillac-ish wine is properly ready.
Flight 4 - Gevrey Premier Crus (2 notes)
Red
2010 Dupont-Tisserandot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers
93 points
Meat, iron, good lift and gentle spice on the inviting, attractive, complex nose: a super first impression. Deep, rounded and full of flavour - frankly delicious to drink - although a slightly dry finish that may improve with a little more time in the bottle. My third favourite wine tonight.
Red
2010 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Petite Chapelle
93 points
Much paler than all tonight's other wines, other than the tomatoey Bertheau. A high-toned, stemmy nose, almost grassy and relatively austere, with a hint of musk coming through. Fine, bright and grippy on the palate, and a good depth of tasty deep blue fruit, although the wine then finished with some dusty tannins. Barely ready, but bloody good.
Flight 5 - Gevrey Grand Crus (2 notes)
Red
2010 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Latricières-Chambertin
94 points
Beautifully deep nose, sophisticated and stemmy. Rather stony on the palate, with delicate red fruit and some greenish musk, all the notes well integrated with one another: full-flavoured without being full-bodied. Finally, a long, mineral-inflected and austere finish. Goodness me, what a wine - my clear favourite tonight (and more ready than most of tonight's premier crus, too).
Red
2010 Dupont-Tisserandot Mazis-Chambertin
91 points
Leaner than its flight-mate, and notably mineral and reserved; closed, even. An ashy note on the nose, with some florality coming through. Spicy and tingly on the palate, with some gingerbread, then clamped down on the finish. Just too serious and unready right now.
Closing
It may well be connected with the choice of producers tonight, but I was surprised at how backward many of these wines were. They were nearly all lovely, though!