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North & Central Italy
Terra Rossa
Tasted December 18, 2023 by Joshvoulters with 164 views
Introduction
A Terra Rossa special, taking in a really fascinating cross-section of Piedmontese and Tuscan wines (and a couple from Le Marche)
Flight 1 - Verdicchio (2 notes)
White
2020 Borgo Paglianetto Verdicchio di Matelica Vertis
90 points
I found this had remarkable range and complexity for a young wine raised in steel. Deep, nutty tones with lemon oil and white peach. A buttery character with a touch of sweetness on the palate - not huge depth and at this point the nose is more interesting but there is some texture and good acidity. Very tasty.
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Comment
White
2021 Borgo Paglianetto Verdicchio di Matelica Petrara
88 points
Dense and complex nose: mint, fruit salad sweets, tree sap. Slightly simple on the palate but a good balance of fruit and acidity - just not all that exciting.
Flight 2 - Piedmontese whites (2 notes)
White
2016 Vigneti Massa Derthona Montecitorio
91 points
I'm not sure how much there is to add to Otto's excellent note below - I found this a very compelling wine, especially in contrast to the preceding flight of correct and strait-laced Verdicchios. Some oxidative and developed notes of dried apricot, roast hazelnut, brown butter, a certain wildness and energy. Fun and alive - really good stuff.
White
2018 Giovanni Manzone Langhe Rossese Bianco Rosserto
88 points
Quite closed with notes of white flower, a polished stone impression that doesn't rely much on fruit. Clean and vibrant, nice acidic cut. Really good for the price and worked very well with food where it was unobtrusive and complementary.
Flight 3 - Piedmont ex. Nebbiolo, part 1 (3 notes)
Red
2016 Davide Carlone Vespolina Colline Novaresi
90 points
Really interesting and I was excited to try this. I don't tend to love the white pepper note Vespolina imparts to a blend but here it feels riper, fuller and juicer. Quite advanced with sweet pepper notes, grass, dark cherry, leather. Quite resolved and fruity on the palate - reasonable acidity, some mid-palate hollowness but very distinctive all the same.
Red
2016 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Pre-Phylloxera
87 points
Sweet, dark-toned blackberry fruit, with some notes of furniture polish and violet. Quite solid overall - resolved on the palate with freshening acidity.
Red
2019 Marcarini Dolcetto d'Alba Boschi di Berri
86 points
Chocolate-covered strawberry - sprightly and quiet, not much dimension or complexity for me. Dry- possibly too dry for me - on the palate.
Flight 4 - Piedmont ex. Nebbiolo, part 2 (2 notes)
Red
2013 Vigneti Massa Croatina Colli Tortonesi Pertichetta
88 points
First a single varietal Vespolina at this tasting, now a pure Croatina - my nerd cup runneth over. Evolved and a touch leathery, more VA than is strictly reasonable- notes of dusty library, soy and BBQ beef Hula Hoops. Sweet and fruity on the palate, tannins are fine but add structure. Enjoyed this.
Red
2008 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia
93 points
Super distinctive: cape gooseberry, pulpy tomato, fresh blood orange - it has an incredible sweet vegetal tang. Deep red fruit on the palate, nicely resolved tannins and juicy acidity. Really excellent length - and it hides its 14.5% very well.
Flight 5 - Barolo (2 notes)
Red
2005 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche
93 points
More developed than the last bottle but also slightly richer - both nuances work. Excellent depth and dimension- this one is a winner.
Red
2010 Giacomo Fenocchio Barolo Villero
92 points
Fresh and pulpy with some VA. Tomato and umami depth, marmite, cola bottle sweets. A lightness of touch and high-toned character plays nicely against those deeper notes.
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Flight 6 - Tuscan Sangiovese (2 notes)
Red
2016 Montevertine Toscana IGT
92 points
Embryonic and slightly inexpressive now, and the last sip was the best. Young and closed with macerated ripe cherry notes and liquorice. Violet and rose emerge with air. There's a density which hints at its potential, and fantastic acidic lift to carry it there.
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Red
2006 Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Nocio dei Boscarelli
90 points
Mature with a good balance of resolved, pulpy red fruit and meaty depth. Velvety and typical of the appellation in its luxurious and rounded approach at the expense of angularity and drive.
Flight 7 - Brunello (2 notes)
Red
2001 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
On the precipice of over-development but there's a core of generous red and dark fruit, concentrated with a pulpiness and lovely sweet raspberry richness. Also some boot polish and rubbery notes which aren't quite so appealing. Enjoyable on the palate: velvety and long with good presence.
Red
1999 Pieve Santa Restituta (Gaja) Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille
93 points
My WoTN - has direction, purity and delicacy despite its sunny disposition. Mature with some umami tertiary development and sweet fruit, woody pencil shavings, peppery spice. Soaring perfumed and minty notes emerge with air. Vibrant and resolved on the palate with good length, transparency and clarity.
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Closing
Very helpful exercise to determine that consuming quality Italian wine and food, accompanied by a nice group of people, is a pleasant way to spend one's time.