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Whole Lotta Lafite
Wine Watch, Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Tasted January 26, 2024 - January 27, 2024 by sdr with 96 views
Introduction
I've tasted a number of vintages of Lafite and even done some verticals, but I still felt I had not grasped the Lafite style and confirmed its reputation for longevity. So, time to put on a significant vertical of the Château including some young ones back to the oldies to see how they are showing. I had a sprinkling of them in my collection but accumulated most of them in last year from various auctions. Is Lafite really the "First of the Firsts"?
Flight 1 - Apéritif (1 note)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration 23 Grande Cuvée
From a late release magnum, this is a blend of 2006, 2004 and 2002, 58% CH, 42% PN. These Grande Siècles are ready on release and this one was very fresh and energetic with lots of citrus and yeast.
Flight 2 - The Youngsters (4 notes)
Red
2018 Château Lafite Rothschild
Purple in color, purple in flavor, as in pure grape juice. Immense concentration. Super ripe but not hot or stewed. Really tiring to drink; one sip is plenty. I lack the skill others have to determine how this will evolve. Impressive in its infancy but I can't put a number on it.
Red
2016 Château Lafite Rothschild
94 points
Much more suave than the teeth staining 2018, this 2016 is only moderately tannic and easier to drink. Lots of black fruit. Moderately oaky. Stylish. Will not take decades to come around but it is of course primary now. Rated for potential.
Red
2009 Château Lafite Rothschild
93 points
An odd aroma of beef broth appeared briefly then settled down to a more classic red berry scent. Very tannic but fortunately not bitter. Slightly low in acidity but the stuffing mostly hides it. At age 15 it is an awkward teenager. Too soon to tell exactly how it will turn out.
Red
2000 Château Lafite Rothschild
94 points
Very youthful and exuberant. Lots of red cherry and raspberry fruit, which is delicious. Somehow both very slightly hot on the finish yet gaining sweetness as well. No complexity yet. Nice acidity. I'm optimistic for the future but you can drink it now if you like fruit bombs, Bordeaux-style.
Flight 3 - Are They Ready? (4 notes)
Red
1996 Château Lafite Rothschild
flawed
An off bottle although not corked. The fruit is old and stewed. Probably heat damaged. Sad since this vintage of Lafite can be outstanding.
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Comment
Red
1990 Château Lafite Rothschild
93 points
While this bottle was not nearly as impressive as one from last month it still proves 1990 is a highly successful vintage for Lafite with no roasted or green characteristics. Questionably high in alcohol on the palate which fortunately only detracts very slightly. Creamy texture. Ripe but not overripe. Just lacking the focus of the best bottles. In its early maturity stage and the one to reach for if you want to drink Lafite without too much risk.
Red
1989 Château Lafite Rothschild
92 points
The first growths in 1989 do not have a great reputation other than Haut-Brion but this Lafite is fine. Interesting mix of black current, licorice and wet earth. Sometimes Lafite can resemble St. Julien or Margaux more than Pauillac but this one shows where it came from.
Red
1988 Château Lafite Rothschild
92 points
This Lafite did not taste of the austerity for which this vintage is famous. Actually surprising hints of sweetness which along with cassis, tobacco and dirt make for an interesting drink. But only medium intensity at best and seems older than it is.
Flight 4 - Mature Lafite (4 notes)
Red
1986 Château Lafite Rothschild
95 points
If this bottle is representative the 1986 Lafite has finally come around and is in early maturity. Exciting depth of blackberry and black cherry fruit, "sophisticated" tannins as Clive Coates might have said, and well judged acidity. Sheer pleasure and might even become better with time if it develops additional complexity.
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Comment
Red
1985 Château Lafite Rothschild
92 points
Some of the experts heap great praise on this vintage of Lafite but I am not yet convinced. Soft, friendly and cuddly on the attack but the finish is short and rather thin. Even if you are not trying to be a blockbuster you should last throughout the tasting cycle all the way to the end. Perhaps other bottles are better.
Red
1978 Château Lafite Rothschild
87 points
The decade of the seventies was not kind to Lafite - or to most Bordeaux. This '78 has received praise from some of the experts but is is far beyond its drink-by date. While there is a smidgen of interesting damp earth character it is not enough to make you want a second sip and the wine is too meager on the palate.
Red
1975 Château Lafite Rothschild
84 points
There is no trace of Lafite elegance in this bruiser of a vintage where the tannins and acidity have outlasted the fruit and from an era in which Lafite was not at the top of the echelon. Orange brown and too acidic and thin. Sometimes these old fashioned Bordeaux can be pleasant to drink but this is not one of them.
Flight 5 - The Elder Statesmen (4 notes)
Red
1970 Château Lafite Rothschild
92 points
This was a pleasant surprise from a vintage I included in the vertical out of "necessity" and not because I expected it to be good. But it was, in a very old school claret way. Pale orange, some brown. Classic old Bordeaux aroma of sweet old polished mahogany wood and brick. It is all tertiary now so don't expect any recognizable fruit. Seems even much older than it is, though.
Red
1966 Château Lafite Rothschild
93 points
We were blessed with an excellent exemple of 1966 Lafite, which can often be too lean and too mean. Not this bottle. Good healthy ruby color. Fine generosity in 1966 terms. The fruit is lively enough and the balance is impressive. Held up well in the glass. Undeniably pleasant drinking even if not a superstar.
Red
1961 Château Lafite Rothschild
93 points
This was one of the best examples of 1961 Lafite, a vintage plagued by bottle variation and from which even the better ones are not in the top rank of 1961 Bordeaux. But this bottle was quite pleasing; decent concentration and length and nicely fragrant. I much appreciated its elegance and finesse.
Red
1949 Château Lafite Rothschild
flawed
Tea color. Smells like rain water. Did not survive. Most tasters thought it was corked or otherwise spoiled.
Flight 6 - The Legends (3 notes)
Red
1982 Château Lafite Rothschild
flawed
This was the most "interesting" bottle of the vertical. Purchased many years ago from a New York merchant, the back label clearly stated it was recorked at the château in 1994. On closer inspection, the capsule and label were somewhat suspect, especially since the label was very slightly smaller than usual. The cork also did not seem entirely correct. Still, you want to drink it to see what it might be but if you do, you still can't tell anything except that it is not 1982 Lafite and it is not a good anything, being much too dry and tasteless.
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Comment
Red
1959 Château Lafite Rothschild
94 points
Fabulous mature Lafite from one of its most successful old vintages - but only for about 20 minutes. Beautiful Lafite fragrance of berry and dried flowers. Remarkably full and rich mid palate. Black and red fruit, beautiful structure and balance with just the right acidity and melted tannins. Unfortunately became less clean and lost focus after a while, but the first 20 minutes were a 97 point experience.
Red
1953 Château Lafite Rothschild
94 points
This is what very old claret is supposed to be but rarely is. From a delicate vintage of which Lafite is reputed to be one of the stars. Color as expected for age from a sound bottle - pale tawny, some brown at the meniscus. Gorgeous subtle bouquet of rose and black tea. Not feeble on the palate even if the tertiary flavors of dried fruit demand attention. One of the favorites of the group. A lucky privilege to drink a well preserved bottle of this legend. I might have added a point or two out of respect.
Flight 7 - Sweet Dessert (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1967 Château d'Yquem
87 points
The bottle looked great including the color through the glass. But this was a very weak example. Smells too much like acetone. Only moderate viscosity and not much botrytis either. While it was very sweet, the acidity was much too high so the balance was lacking.
Closing
As usual with large verticals there were some bad ones, some misses, some excellent ones and some over-achievers. I don't find Lafite to be consistently elegant much less sublime. But the best vintages can last extremely well, arguably as well as any Bordeaux, and provide extraordinary interest and enjoyment.
Among the Firsts, I'd vote for Lafite for its complexity, Latour for its concentration, Mouton for its flamboyance, Haut Brion for its stylishness and Margaux for its sheer beauty. Which you rate the highest depends on your stylistic preference.