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Quite a lot of Chianti
Must & Lees, Warren Street
Tasted February 21, 2024 by Joshvoulters with 122 views
Introduction
The brief: base Chianti Classicos from across the appellation, recent vintages and good producers. The outcome: a metric shit-ton of Sangiovese and a unique opportunity for a really detailed comparative tasting.
A really well put together tasting and the average quality was very high. Not huge variation - no duds, nothing mind-blowing - but it's clear that you can drink well, with typicity and reflection of terroir, for not that much money in Chianti.
Flight 1 - Anybody got any Fontodi? (7 notes)
Red
2006 Fontodi Chianti Classico
85 points
I thought this was past its best, or at least it has a level of maturity that masks what I'm looking for in a Chianti Classico. Quite leathery with boot polish notes. Resolved, sweet and plummy on the palate - it's tasty but in quite a generic way for me.
Red
2012 Fontodi Chianti Classico
85 points
Evolved, maybe this hot vintage wine is falling apart a bit quickly? Spicy and slightly volatile, blandly sweet and flat on the palate. For balance, others round the table really liked it
Red
2015 Fontodi Chianti Classico
91 points
Pure and balanced, there's a subtlety and hints of maturity blending well with the primary notes. Dark cherry and rose, earth, mint, a touch of tar. Sharp acidity and a smooth palate entry backed up with fine grip.
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Comments (1)
Red
2018 Fontodi Chianti Classico
88 points
Savoury and meaty, notes of soy, smoke and plum. Quite sunny, smooth and rich on the palate, acidity and tannic grip aren't far behind and it finishes long with a dark bitter note.
Red
2019 Fontodi Chianti Classico
90 points
A really good vintage for this wine - and Chianti in general it seems. Quite rich with nice body. Meaty notes, crystalline cherry, strawberry and a pulpy sweet tomato character. The oak treatment is really classy - perfumed and integrated. Good depth on the palate, it's young and structured and should develop really well.
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Comment
Red
2020 Fontodi Chianti Classico
87 points
Young and ferrous, eucalyptus and pine- lots of herbal notes along with primary and pronounced red fruit. It's a bit disparate right now, the notes not yet integrated and a sense of leanness overall. Not the most inviting at this point
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Comment
Red
2019 Fontodi Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole
89 points
Beautifully perfumed and lifted: light and floral with rose, white flowers and strawberry. Subtle on the palate, smooth with a light/ medium body, fresh acidity. Slightly insubstantial but I think that's the point.
Flight 2 - 2020 Horizontal (8 notes)
Red
2020 Tenuta di Carleone Chianti Classico
92 points
Nothing to contradict my previous note on this wine, and if anything the direct comparison against lots of equivalent bottles from good producers brought its quality into focus. There's a level of detail and delineation which sets it apart- a producer to follow closely
Red
2020 Castello la Leccia Chianti Classico
87 points
Not the most subtle but fun and tasty. Floral and spiced - maybe a bit much on that count - coriander seed, cumin, dark cherry. Oak is possibly a bit muddy. Smooth and concentrated with a velvety palate entry, moderate acidity. A good mid-weeker.
Red
2020 Istine Chianti Classico
88 points
Lifted and perfumed with a fizzy spiced character. Baked earth and mineral notes. A little sweet on the red fruited palate, lots of acid and masses of fine tannins. A pretty, slightly herbal, wine.
Red
2020 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico
91 points
A Gaiole bruiser in comparison to some more delicate Radda wines, this was quite powerful and totally delicious. Some reductive cordite notes carrying a full, meaty nose with real depth to the dark cherry and blackberry fruit and violet. Great presence and persistence on the palate.
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Comment
Red
2020 Val delle Corti Chianti Classico
88 points
Strawberry, ripe tomato, iron, some oak perfume. Confident on the nose with sweet red fruit on the palate, good structure and a savoury finish. Everything's in the right place although it didn't thrill me.
Red
2020 Castello dei Rampolla Chianti Classico
91 points
Really good. Saturated dark cherry, spicy oak, violet, vanilla: contained but deep. Clearly of breeding from a quality producer - a contrast of high toned perfume with fruit depth. Subtly concentrated on the palate with a bitter edge, fine tannins.
Red
2020 Riecine Chianti Classico
87 points
A Pinot quality to this - powdery and slightly vegetal, herbal with red berries and spice. High toned with a gentle concentration on the palate, purple fruit notes and drinking well now without too much structure. Doesn't scream 'Chianti' but interesting nonetheless
Red
2020 Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Retromarcia
91 points
Notwithstanding my reservations about the stupid branding, the liquid is beyond reproach. Quite complex and deep with layers of dark cherry and floral perfume. Real clarity. Flirting with opulence, it's heady, delicious and really quite accessible.
Flight 3 - Isole e Olena (2 notes)
Red
2019 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico
87 points
Lots of violet, I found this quite clenched and the fruit not particularly expressive. More perfume than fruit at this point, some ferrous character. Smooth but compact on the palate, tomato and pomegranate flavours. May need time to relax.
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Comment
Red
2017 Isole e Olena Chianti Classico
88 points
Small red berries, dark cherry, vanilla. Concentrated and compact on the palate, finishes short. Tasty but simple. Not a producer I really get on with at this level.
Flight 4 - The others (2 notes)
Red
2017 Istine Chianti Classico Vigna Cavarchione
90 points
Dark fruit, tar, spice, fresh leather, violet freshness. Raw, with a sense of untamed power. Oak is there, needs time to integrate. Smooth and resolved on the palate, a pleasant pulpy character offset by good structure.
Red
2021 Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Retromarcia
90 points
This wine is developing really nicely - all the good stuff I liked a few months ago remains, but it's filled out and become slightly richer on the palate. Very good indeed.
Flight 5 - Vin Santo (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2011 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
93 points
This was gorgeous - a really nutty, oxidative nose that was a ringer for Sherry with an orange peel note. By comparison the palate is so fresh, sweet and bright - apricot, honey, saffron, lemon peel. Smooth and persistent with clear acidity that cleanses the palate.
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Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
2017 Castello di Volpaia Vin Santo del Chianti Classico
92 points
Quite savoury, dark and spicy - beautiful oak which will eventually settle and integrate. Super acidity and a meaty depth on the palate. Really substantial and very young - sweet, balanced, lovely. Needs time.