Thought this and the Perseval were quite similar to begin with, but the latter pulled ahead with air. Tart red fruit in the natty grower style that didn’t particularly speak to me.

Thin and dilute red apple fruit but gained intensity and weight with air. A chalky minerality, along with more green fruit emerged with time. Thought this was very good after a couple of hours.

Asked the restaurant to open this four hours before dinner. Found this more approachable than the 2012 that I had previously. Think some were disappointed by this to begin with but think they were convinced when it got warmer with time in the glass. A superbly balanced wine, delicate raspberry fruit but with incredible intensity and energy at the same time. Is it worth the tariff over Vilmart, Bereche? Hmm.

Not the most convincing showing after a superb bottle from the same friend last year. Slightly cloudy with tart raspberry and cherry fruit. Rather thin so I thought this was my 2007 instead.

My contribution. Much weightier than expected, with an appealing spice and coffee notes. Good depth on the palate but the Suchots that came later were a step up.

More approachable than the 2014 RSV I had previously but this was still a powerful, tight rendition of Suchots from this producer. Spice with blue and black fruit, an immense structure combined with a silky texture. Thought this was more potential than pleasure today.

Youthful but not as complete and full-bodied as the previous time I had this, could definitely tell this was from a lean vintage so guessed 2011. Others noted bitterness on the finish but thought the shrillness was more distracting to me. Still a very good wine, mind.

Easy tell as the Vogüé (we did single blind). Nicely balanced with attractive dark red fruit, with some coffee notes. Guessed 2010 because of the purity of fruit.

The cooler vintage helped a usually stern wine to give so much pleasure at this stage. Incredibly rich, but the ethereal and elegant aspects of the wine were at the forefront. So pleasurable and hedonistic in a lighter manner, if that makes sense.

Knew the identity of the wine but not the vintage, guessed 2013 because I find Dujacs in cooler vintages have dark red rather than blue fruit, and less stem inclusion. So seamless, juicy and balanced, with an endless finish. Most including myself felt that this was the most complete wine on the night.

So pure, balanced and refined that I immediately said 2010 H-N. Quintessential H-N, Vosne, Suchots, and 2010 - enough said. A true ballerina of a wine.