Pale straw. Nicely fresh. Crisp young b de b, some energy and line here. Very decent. ***

Light to mid straw. Quite rich on the nose. Broad with some orange blossom on the nose. Red apple. Good line. Very decent. ***1/2

Mid straw. Not many bubbles, made slightly worse by a detergent-tainted glass. Gains more energy and aroma when decanted into a different glass. Nicely rich now, the sharp cut of its youth transformed to a vanilla crème pat richness of middle aged chardonnay. A mineral line with some tang. Stylistically this is essentially pettilant white burgundy — B de M Corton Charlemagne from a ripe vintage. Twelve years on from my last encounter, and obviously the wine has evolved, become richer and less vibrant, but maybe lost some of its energy too. ****

Full gold. A touch of orange blossom on the nose when first opening with an unctuous texture. Three hours on this has tightened and calmed a little. Waxy and leggy. There’s a surprising lightness and line here with filigree. O peel it’s woven around it. Another wine I’ve not looked at for over a decade, and time has served it well, perhaps freshening it a little. A clear step up from 04 currently, and a more complete wine. ****

Mid gold. A sense more oxidation on the nose. Some furniture polish too. Leaner and more linear with less obvious complexity cf the 01. ***1/2

Full garnet. Really quite rich when opened. Three hours later, still nicely rich, but dialled back slightly, a ourity of fruit and a mineral line. Autumnal fragrance laced with truffle. Elegant, fragranced, nuanced. Just lovely. Fine burgundy with a little oomph. *****

Mid to full garnet with a touch of ruby. Quite richly fruited. The hypothetical blend of the 01 and 07. Three peas in a pod, just at slightly different ages. Gorgeous wine. *****

Mid ruby tending to full garnet. A lot more youthful with good fruit in a mildly structural frame. Another gorgeous wine with such a strong familial resemblance to the 04 and 01. *****

Dense, full garnet to cloudy mid ruby. Blackcurrant with some mocha. A touch of smoke and beef fat. Fine grained tannins and good acidity. Still quite young. It’s all there. ****

Riper and broader than the 96. Gentle mocha with a touch of blackcurrant leaf. Still quite young, showing well and consistently with a bottle from the same case a couple of years ago. Fresh with good acidity and fine tannins. ****

Mid purple to full vibrant ruby. Really sweet and confected strawberry fruit on the nose. Primary. Sweet dark red to blue fruit. Strawberry jam and clotted cream on warm scones. Primary but approachable and really quite drinkable, the ripe fruit balanced by decent acidity and low alcohol (12%), though hardly the last word in complexity, at least at this stage. Bare ****