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Tasted April 13, 2024 by Joshvoulters with 37 views

Introduction

A Tuscan meal paired with flights of white Burg, red Burg and Bordeaux along with a stylistic equivalent from elsewhere. On my part I was more focused on eating, drinking and conversing than a forensic analysis of what was in my glass but I really enjoyed every bottle- certainly no duds here and, as always, a lot of fun with a great group of people.

Flight 1 - White Burgundy (2 notes)

Antipasto Misto

White
2014 Maison Roche de Bellene Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
94 points
Deep and rangy, notes of wood smoke and pixellated ripe lemon, aromatic white flowers. There's wonderful detail and delineation here. Smooth, almost voluptuous and dense on the palate with a brilliance provided by the acidity. Everything is in exactly the place it should be. Wonderful.
White
2012 Kumeu River Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard New Zealand, North Island, Auckland, Kumeu
91 points
So young for a 12 year old wine- the closure must have something to do with it. It's compact, with rich hazelnut, mandarin, vanilla and lemon and just a touch of reduction. It's similar in character on the palate - good ripe fruit concentration but you get the sense that with time it'll relax and express itself.

Flight 2 - Red Burgundy (2 notes)

Tagliatelle con Fegatini

Red
2014 Roagna Barbaresco Gallina Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
92 points
Takes an age to spark into life - this was first uncorked about 14 hours before drinking, followed by a few hours in a decanter. It feels very early in its evolution and I imagine it has more to give with time. Today it's bright and vertical - not enormously expressive but it rewards focus, revealing hauntingly complex Nebbiolo aromatics, spicy and ferrous with a note of freshly sawn rosewood. Wild strawberry and macerated red cherry round out the nose. Smooth and concentrated raspberry on the palate, the tannins are fine and smooth but provide a fiery kick along with sharp acidity- I'd say the structure is a little foreboding at the moment.
Red
2014 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
91 points
Is it a copout to describe this as 'really Vosne-y'? Spicy and velvety red fruit, just an edge of pulpiness in a very appealing way. This was popped and poured so we got to enjoy its evolution in the glass and, while initially quite straightforward, it began to express more floral notes of rose and violet with time. Good concentration on the palate - I found myself expecting and wanting a touch more richness so by comparison I found it just a touch lean and dry- a lovely wine though, and I thought a really good counterpoint to a Roagna Barbaresco of the same vintage.

Flight 3 - Bordeaux (2 notes)

Porchetta, Radicchio, Fagioli

Red
2008 Tenuta San Leonardo San Leonardo Italy, Trentino Alto-Adige / Veneto, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
92 points
A producer I follow but this is actually my first taste of the Grand Vin. It certainly lives up to its reputation - cool, refined and complete. There's a sense of old fashioned clarity and restraint here - dark fruits, spice and rose with just a hint of wet tobacco. It's not trying to ingratiate itself, which is sort of the appeal - resolutely savoury and balanced, dry dark fruits on the palate and a fresh, crystalline impression on the finish. You sense this will age for decades.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1996 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
92 points
In a really good spot: green pepper jumps out of the glass at first pour, joined by ripe dark berries, pencil shavings, a gamey note- although the fruit really leads the way. It impeccably walks the fine line between saturated richness and cool restraint. No hurry with this one.

Flight 4 - Dessert (2 notes)

Strawberry Tiramisu

White - Sweet/Dessert
1997 Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux Réserve Personelle France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
89 points
Brown sugar, barley, lemon peel. It was paired with a very sweet dessert (mea culpa!) which probably left it feeling a bit drier than it really was. A nice sense of precision on the palate with laser beam acidity and good yellow fruit weight.
Red - Fortified
N.V. Cappellano Barolo Chinato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo Chinato
93 points
Just give me a glass of this to sniff and turn the lights off. I love the boldness here - hugely dry, medicinal, herbal nose. I don't have the faculties to unpick what I'm smelling but it's the Northern Italian Christmas of your dreams made manifest. Honestly it's kind of challenging - initially bitter, leafy on the palate with a sweet and structured depth swelling beneath to balance it out. Feels like a remedy… and I've got the sickness
1 person found this helpful Comment
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