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NobleRottersSydney - Sangiovese night

Lucio's, Paddington

Tasted October 13, 2003 by graemeg with 571 views

Introduction

The Noble Rotters gather in Sydney for the October 2003 dinner. Officially, we’re supposed to be drinking Italian Sangiovese, but the theme seems to have broadened to anything Italian, or Sangiovese. Challenging to make decent notes, as I’m on relatively unfamiliar territory here…

Flight 1 (15 notes)

Red
1998 Marchesi Mazzei Poggio alla Badiola Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Bright red, with clean cherry fruit and a touch of earth. Not un-pinot-like. Spicy on the palate – very light, with not much acid and no real tannin to speak of. Minimal oak influence. Shortish finish, but despite the apparently negative notes not faulty, just a light quaffing Italian red in clean modern style.
Red
1998 Castellani Le Lame Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Orangey-red. A rather fungal nose – earthy, barnyard. Some astringency on the palate, but in general a short, light wine.
Red
1998 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Crimson red. Almost citric qualities on the nose, with even a touch of cinnamon or woodspice. Surprisingly light at this age, I find it a little woody and perhaps disjointed. Savoury, though. Hard to call – a wine requiring some time?
Red
2000 Antinori Chianti Classico Pèppoli Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Very dark red. Pepper & sweaty saddle leap first to the nose, and they’re lifted and pronounced aromas. It’s tannin city on the palate, but at least even across the palate, with a long finish. A food wine, in the best sense of the word.
Red
2000 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Titolato Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Clean cherry red colour. Perfumed strawberry aromas. Gently astringent on the palate, although quite light, the balance inclining towards the front palate. Pleasant, but not especially memorable.
Red
2001 Chain of Ponds Sangiovese Jupiter's Blood Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
Light red. Fruit aromas are very reticent – the nose is all of a light woodiness. The palate is dominated by warmth (alcohol?), with soft fruit and a pretty simple flavour profile. Ho-hum.
Red
2000 Step Rd Sangiovese Langhorne Creek Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, Langhorne Creek
Pale-mid red. This presents aromas rather like a turbo-charged Australian pinot. Powerful stewed light red berry fruit. Medium weight on the palate, but it’s all tannin, albeit it soft and fast-fading ones. OK, but a bit one-dimensional.
Red
2002 Tower Estate Sangiovese Australia, New South Wales, Central Ranges, Orange
Bright red. Very clean nose of indeterminate red berry fruits. The palate offers a bright acidic, zesty, wine – makes me wonder about any carbonic maceration techniques used in fermentation which could have given it such a lifted perfumed quality. Spicy flavours with plenty of acid. I liked it better tonight than at the cellar door 2 weeks previously.
Red
1998 Terrabianca Chianti Classico Scassino Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Deep red. A meaty nose, but a bit muted. A dryish, spicy medium weight wine, with not much obvious fruit. I was expecting a bit better for the price I paid…
Red
1999 Fattoria Zerbina Sangiovese di Romagna Torre Di Ceparano Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Sangiovese di Romagna
Deep red. Lots of blackberries and oak aromas. Tannins are unexpectedly soft – but give a pleasant dry finish. The balance is good, length pretty respectable – just misses somehow in the finish for me.
Red
1997 Antinori Chianti Classico Marchese Antinori Riserva Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
This offers a charry macerated nose of worked blackberries and oak spice. Very dry on the palate, and not much breaks through the wall of tannin. Not great just now – a bit hard to drink. Needs a few years, or more to show better. Great potential, though?
Red
1992 Bertani Secco-Bertani Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Valpantena
So much for sangiovese, then. Reddish, with some brick colour. Is this ‘brett?’ Strongly showing a funky earthy quality, with a bacterial hint perhaps slightly suppressing the fruit that seems to be lurking beneath! Still in one piece though – pretty good for Valpolicella!
Red
1998 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Deep red. Clearly the darkest wine of the night – no sangiovese here! Surprisingly youthful nose all of primary blackcurrant fruit. It’s desperately tannic, though – I find this quite over-the-top, and am not sure that it will ever come round to be a balanced and satisfying wine…
White - Sweet/Dessert
1998 De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Sémillon Australia, New South Wales, Big Rivers, Riverina
Golden caramel colour. Very much crème brulee on the nose, carrying through with marmalade on the palate, but with very little acid left, to my taste. Another year or two, and this will be well into the ‘cloying’ category.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Miranda Sémillon Golden Botrytis Australia, New South Wales, Big Rivers, Riverina
Deep gold. A marmalade-infused nose not unlike the Noble One, but with a less refined edge. This has softened as well and is a drink-now proposition. The flavours are pretty big, but the finish is quite short.
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