La Fete: Lunch w/Vincent Laval

Before COVID I would say I was a bubbles drinker, but that perhaps I had never really put the same effort into the category as I have with reds or even with sweets. During COVID, found it was the wine that I most wanted to drink (perhaps because it's less terrible to drink bubbles at 9 am). Laval is one of those champagnes that I'd had before, but really started understanding more about during that time. This was a real treat - lovely set of tablemates and Vincent is very charming.

Brouillade
soft scrambled eggs, matsutake mushroom

• 2016 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Cumières

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  For the base wine this is very lovely and tart and maybe a bit spicy and rounder. Almost reminds me of the flavor of an apricot but without that heavier texture. Very bright. It is the low dosage style that is so popular among the growers but somehow there seems to be more heft and complexity to the wine.

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Wild Maine Belon
beurre d'oursin

Couteaux Casino
fennel, leeks, breadcrumbs

Langoustine
lardo

• 2017 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  More spicy in style and a lit bit sharp to start although the edges soften with time. Very quick finish. It's fun to get to try. Very interesting to try this with two of the older ones to see the evolution.

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• 2005 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  This was a lovely surprise and my favorite of the flight. It's beautiful. More integrated than the '17 and more vibrant than the '05. I get breadcrumbs and thistle and this very bright finish. Drinking well.

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• 2004 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Lemon, bright and a bit less bubbles. This was a kindof polarizing wine for the table and we all seemed to get something a bit different. For some this was all acid and no fruit. For me this was fruit but didn't have the same level of acid. This was a bit more evolved than I would have expected it to be for an '04. Just somehow a bit quieter than some of the other wines.

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Petit Sale
pork jarret, saucisson a l'ail, mackerel, sorana beans

• 2016 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Les Hautes Chevres

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Very chalky and almost a bit salty in style. Less spice. Higher acid. This was served colder than some of the others and came much more alive with some time.

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• 2008 Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Les Hautes Chevres

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Interestingly enough while this is listed as Pinot Meunier (because all of the vintages post 2009 were), it's actually Pinot Noir (and was for all vintages before 2009). One of my favorites of the tasting. It's nutty and fresh and there's this interesting flavor that seems to be some combination of granite and rosemary and I'm not totally sure what but very beguiling.

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Poule au Pot
poilarde ballotine, foie gras, truffle root vegetables

• 2013 Georges Laval Champagne Brut Nature Les Longues Violes

  France, Champagne

  This is more of the light and airy style of champagne and yet still there is more complexity here than with some other versions of this style. More acid. A slightly sharper finish.

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• 2012 Georges Laval Champagne Brut Nature Les Longues Violes

  France, Champagne

  Interesting - there's more age here than I would have expected between the '12 and '13. More brioche and lemon. Very elegant and fresh. Reminds me a lot of a rockface. Very nice.

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Perhaps my favorite flight was the '08 vs. the '16 - one with old Pinot Noir vines and the other with old Pinot Meunier both from the same plot. The Pinot Noir sadly needed to be replanted after that, but that wine was really special. The '05 was also a surprise for me. Given the zero dosage will be interesting to see how these wines age, but we have some laying down to check in.