Harbour Grill, Hilton Hotel
Tasted Saturday, July 25, 2009 by Paul S with 835 views
Interesting educational dinner for Elsa and I. De Montille has always been rather pricey, so this was a good chance to taste through a wide range of their wines along with some well-prepared food. Food was great, it was good to catch up with our hosts, Charles and Michele as well.
Some thoughts on the wines. I was very impressed by two out of the three of the de Montille whites. Perhaps a reflection of the skills that Etienne de Montille picked up while working with Chateau de Puligny Montrachet. I like the style. They all had the typical 2006 fat, but still had great aromatics, plenty of focus and lots of stylish class. In that way, I thought the wines also made a nod towards the whites of Domaine Roulot, whose winemaker, Jean-Marc, was married to Etienne's sister, Alix de Montille. One white, the PM Les Caillerets was disappointing. Strange, given that it has been highly rated over the past few vintages - no noticeable flaws, but perhaps an off bottle?
The reds were a little harder to read. All were good, some really very good, puching within their class for sure, but precious few were outstanding. I thought all of them, including the Pommards and Cortons, showed a light touch. Almost Volnaysien. Certainly classy, again classy and well-defined, with some amount of purity and clarity, and little oak or extraction noticeable in the wines. While they carried the low acid style of 2006, all the wines had a nice balance. The Volnays, in particular, I thought had good typicity. By all accounts, a style I should like, except for a little niggling issue with an unusual sweetness, almost candied, in many of the wines. Not full-blown, new world articifical stuff, but enough to stand out. Was that imparted by the vintage or the maker? The jury is still out on that.
All in all, I came out of the dinner with a lot of positives. I like the Domaine, I like its wines. Just not sure about the pricing though - for that amount, one does expect something special. Maybe other vintages do show a spark that is missing in the 2006s. Until I see that though, it will be difficult to fork out the asking price on these wines.
2006 Maison Jean-Claude Fromont Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Not a bad Chardonnay as Chardonnays go. Not even a bad Burg - but just lacking in Chablis character. Sure, there was a chalky minerality and some stones on the nose, but that was laced through with tons of ripe notes - sweet lemons, honey, honeysuckle, toasty flavours and, with some time in the glass, the slightest hint of premox with dried apricots and peaches showing up. The palate showed the warm wash of alcohol from the attack, along with ripe red apples and some iodine notes. Good acidity for a 2006, but a little disjointed at first, with a some tartness sticking out awkwardly. With time, the wine came into balance, and showed better, with some gunpowder and mineral and bready tones moving into a satisying finish. Lacks interest and typicity though.
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