1st Gro(w)th Nite at PRIMAs

PRIMA, Walnut Creek
Tasted Friday, April 30, 2010 by soyhead with 994 views

Introduction

...Bugle call...
Hear ye hear ye hear ye
On the thirtyth knight of April hath doth
Good friends assembelaged to imbybe
All the faymous great groths

It was the 2nd annual first gro(w)th night at PRIMA with a motley crue of entrepreneurs, physicians, and political hacks (with considerable overlap) in attendance. Prior to the event, the email thread discussing the evening was one of the lengthiest I have ever seen but it seems like whatever we decided on we wound up forgetting anyway.

The final list of acceptable wines was determined to be, on the left bank, Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Haut Brion (all 1855 classification), Mouton (elevated to first growth in 1973), and Groth (elevated to first groth in 2010). On the right bank we settled on Petrus, Lafleur, le Pin, Ausone, and Cheval Blanc. Money in the bank would enable one to bring a DRC Richebourg which John happily agreed to include but was vetoed by others. Peter prepared a special menu, and Lance stepped up to the plate to take care of our vinous needs at the table.

Ladies in attendance were Peggy, Steve, John, Bob, Jeff, Errol, Mario, Victor, Duane, and Kevin. Notably absent were Brian, due to an illness in the family, and JD. It was commented that in fact this was just a gathering of Mario and his future dialysis patients - i should hope not.

Everyone’s worst fears were confirmed when Duane showed up with some random bottle label intact, but all scribbed with black ink.

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At this point, what to say? Bringing a Groth to first growth night? I mean heck, people have been erroneously put on the no fly list for a similar spelling stumble, certainly we could cut the doc some slack, no? And when it was hinted that it might be a 1996 Petrus and John jumped out of his chair and exclaimed with glee, 'i knew it!', all was forgiven in my mind.

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This led to some polite grumbling from the cognoscenti - mind you some of us have tried the 1996 Petrus five times, thank you very much!

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Having said that Jeff and Kevin both, to my amazement, picked it out to be a late 70's early 80's california cab, and they were right on. And what made you think that Duane would bring a Petrus, let alone a first growth to first growth night?

Some champagne and whites were served to start the evening which I detail below. I missed the Salon but I think I made it for the rest. Great food, ambiance, and above average company led to sensory overload, and i must admit i found tasting and evaluating these wines a challenge. I think many of us found keeping track of which wine was which to be an equal challenge, and as Lance pointed out, it wouldn't surprise me if a few new first groth cuvees/blends were inadvertantly created that night.

As usual the opinions below are mine only and the scores quite arbitrary, esp on a night like tonight where the overall experience is impossible to quantify. There were some great bottles tonight, and some special wines that i had for the first time ever - thanks to everyone for their generosity.

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Flight 2 (1 Note)

Flight 3 (1 Note)

  • 1994 Château de Fieuzal Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    nose - per jeff 'oxidized honeycomb', per bob 'an old shoe', an odd smell at first which amazingly blew off over the course of several hours. Several people commented on how the nose changed over the evening. Per my notes 'smell not necessarily attractive, like the interior of a new car?, but over the night changes more to honey and custard'.
    mouth - rich and full bodied, good acidity with hints of custard. very good pairing with the lobster. long vanilla finish. Some questioned if this wine might in fact be spoiled, though not me.

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Flight 4 (1 Note)

  • 1995 Jean Noel Gagnard Bâtard-Montrachet 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    This is my second time having this wine, which has huge butterscotch on the nose, followed by smoke and vanilla. To me these are barrel flavors. In the mouth, it is full bodied, with a heavy butter/cream flavor yet still good acidity. Again an excellent lobster pairing. It falls closer to my concept of a rich buttered california chardonnay than an elegant sleek white burgundy, yet this may reveal more about me than anything else.

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Flight 6 (1 Note)

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  • 1983 Château Margaux 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    This was, i believe my first Margaux, and in retrospect i think i drank it way too quickly. Couldn't contain my excitement i guess.
    nose - although it blew off, i swear it first it smelled like freshly diced parsley. I passed the suggestion by Jeff, but dont think i really convinced him. Later red fruit and dirt/dust which made me briefly think of Rutherford dust, just so you have an idea how I would have fared if tasted blind. Per Mario 'leather'
    mouth - mid bodied, and drinking really fresh despite its age. Cherries, red berries, and herbs. Well balanced, classy, and completely belying its age. I would like another glass, please. Score may be conservative.

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Flight 7 (1 Note)

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  • 1994 Château Cheval Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    nose -black tea, herbs
    mouth - mid to full bodied, light red fruit and herbs on the attack followed by a coffee midpalate. Well balanced, but nothing overly powerful here. In some ways reminiscent of a digestif.

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Flight 8 (1 Note)

  • 2003 Château Cheval Blanc 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    nose - smells like cherry syrup
    mouth - big red fruit, possibly even roasted fruit (or am i projecting given the nature of the 2003 vintage?). This wine was probably too young to be drinking. Reminiscent of a Napa cab.

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Flight 9 (1 Note)

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Flight 10 (1 Note)

  • 2001 Château Mouton Rothschild 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    This came right after the 1994 Mouton and my limited notes are suspiciously similar, suggesting a bit of palate fatigue: 'good tannic cassis fruit, roasted coffee'

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Flight 11 (1 Note)

  • 1985 Durney Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Durney Vineyards 92 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley

    "somehow" snuck into out 1st growth night tasting.
    nose - mushroom/truffle
    mouth - considerably fruitier than the nose. i get ripe red fruit (dark cherry). Possibly the ripest wine of the evening. Others commented on it being 'pruney'. Still with huge tannins but terrific balancing acidity. I appear to have been seduced by the fruit.

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Flight 12 (1 Note)

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  • 1990 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    nose - dark tea, blackberry
    mouth - rich, dark fruit, coffee, with complex 2ndary flavors (mushrooms). Long tannic finish with considerble life ahead of it. Consensus WOTN.

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Flight 13 (1 Note)

  • 1966 Château Ausone 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    For sure my first Ausone. nose of caramel, tea, and cocoa. mouth - absolutely huge tannins on this 40+ year old wine. Shocking. The main flavor i picked up was truffle. The power of the wine was undeniable, but the tannins seemed to overwhelm the fruit. I think in the wrestling match between the tannins and fruit, the tannins have clearly won. Could this further develop with time in the bottle? Who knows? Not me as i have no other experience with Ausone, but i have my doubts.

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Flight 14 (1 Note)

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  • 1999 Château d'Yquem 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    nose - apricot, white flowers
    mouth - expanisve floral palate, figs, white peach, with a hint of almonds. complex and very rich.

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