Wines of Savoie and Jura

• 2010 Domaine Jean Vullien & Fils Vin de Savoie Montmélian

  France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Montmélian

  Melon and apple. Crisp, light wine with minimal residual sugar. Fresh with some acidity prominent on the finish.

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• 2009 Edmund Jacquin et Fils Roussette de Savoie

  France, Savoie, Roussette de Savoie

  Full bodied white with pear and earth tones. Overall, though, dull and neutral impression like many a white Rhone.

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• 2009 André et Michel Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron ‘En Foudre’

  France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron

  Light golden but not oxidized in the least. Rich and round, some gentle wood, nice, lively citrus and acidity. Real depth and old vine concentration here. Pretty distinctive stuff and completely different than anything else I've had previously from this obscure region.

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• 2007 Frédéric Lambert Côtes du Jura

  France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

  Golden. Oxidative style. Richer, more alcoholic and harsh than fino sherry. I can't warm to this style.

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• 2009 Edmund Jacquin et Fils Vin de Savoie

  France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie

  Pale. Light cherry and smoke. Pretty, light Pinot with a reasonable finish. Much more to this than other Savoie reds I've had. Nice and fairly priced.

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• 2009 Frédéric Lambert Côtes du Jura

  France, Jura, Côtes du Jura

  Slightly deeper than the Jacquin Pinot. Blacker, even earthier fruit. Some tannin. Very good.

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• 2009 André et Michel Quenard Vin de Savoie Chignin Vieilles Vignes

  France, Savoie, Vin de Savoie Chignin

  Beautiful clear moderate ruby. Violets and licorice-aromatics that really invoke Syrah. In the mouth, though, relatively light weight but excellent earth, texture and fine, smooth tannins.

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Well, these are obscure varietals that provide something different for the jaded palate. The classic, oxidative Jura style is something you either love or hate. Both of the Quenard wines, white and red, were pretty revelatory to me in a level of quality I had not experienced in the few Savoie wines I've sampled in the past.