Magnums for Dave
Jean-Georges - New York, NY
Tasted Thursday, May 14, 2009 by Burgundy Al with 852 views
Introduction
I somehow managed to get an invitation to this wonderful dinner sponsored by Zachys, honoring David Paige. Some really amazing cross-section of mostly magnums, other than a couple of inauthentic magnums of old Bordeaux that weren't served.
1989 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
From magnum. Surprisingly rich and bright fruit jumps out of the glass. Flavors then show a somewhat greater level of maturity with a combination of medium weight orchard fruit and sous bois earthiness. Finish was less and less fruit, more earthy, but fairly short.
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1999 Henri Boillot Montrachet 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
From magnum. Lush and extravagant fruit on the nose and palate. Incredibly floral nose in that distinct Boillot style. Palate is incredibly rich with flavors of peach, ripe pear and lots of spice. Very alluring and exciting from the first smell through last sip. I would say this is at its peak now, unlikely to get any better.
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1985 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Slightly corked.
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1996 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux 98 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
From magnum. Amazingly ripe fruit on the nose - buckets of wild strawberry and raspberry, with some discernible oak-driven spice on nose. Palate shows massive, muscular fruit concentration, unfolding slowly from start-to-finish, as well as with more time in glass. While this does have a touch of New World heat, its incredible acidity and minerality show its pedigree. Amazing licorice, clove and other spice box components come out over time on finish. I tried to keep this wine in glass all night.
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1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 95 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
From magnum. Dense black fruit to start with lots of meaty, powerful spice. Smoky black fruit on the palate with massive structure. Great flavors emerge in different layers unfolding as the wine opened up - chocolate, spices of roast meat, black cherry and dried cherry. Got more and more powerful with more time in glass. Hold to 2015, 2020 or later.
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1990 Château d'Yquem 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Deep, rich peach and apricot on nose, continuing on through to the palate. Great honey, caramel nectar-like flavors with some really impressive candied lemon peel. Huge and massive fruit, but balanced at the same time. Impressive acidity extends the finish of really great wine into a long, great wine.
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1990 Château Montrose 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
From magnum. Massive black cherry and black currant on the nose with exotic spice. Same ripe fruits on the palate with alluring, opulent spice. Incredible fruit concentration and density but still complete balanced throughout. This evolves over a full minutes from something massive and primary into a very sensual, exotic wine. I look forward to revisiting this wine from time-to-time over the next two decades.
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1986 Château Haut-Brion 86 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
From magnum. Highly structured and tannic without the fruit to support that structure. Perhaps/ hopefully not a completely representative bottle.
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1981 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 90 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
From magnum. Dark fruit with some good meaty spice on the nose. Still quite primary for its age with good density and power. But this didn't show much complexity near the end, and only had a moderate length.
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2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
Ripe fruit on the nose with some oak that stands out a bit today. Ripe peach and apricot start out on the palate, starts out with intensity but the fruit shortens while the acidity starts taking over from the middle through the finish.
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1924 Château Gruaud Larose 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
From magnum. Amazingly fresh and lively for its age. Good remaining black fruit with charming secondary, particularly on the nose. Very elegant overall.
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1958 Château Latour Grand Vin 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum. Good nose of secondary character with cedar and tobacco. Fruit mostly gone at first on the palate, giving it a slightly harsh start. Some power and balance emerged in the middle and finish.
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1955 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From magnum. Really great combination of mostly secondary character with still vibrant fruit. Powerful, dense and great concentration with sensational cigar box aromatics. Great finish with plenty of evolving spice and sous bois.
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1947 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
From magnum. Impressive aromas that showed very elegant mushroom character. Really charming flavors and spice, with a slightly muddled finish.
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1927 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage
Portugal, Douro, Porto
My notes were brief at this point in the evening. Good aromas and flavors, but not the nuance and complexity we hoped for from great old Port.
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1948 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 92 Points
Portugal, Douro, Porto
My notes were quite brief at this point in the evening. Sweet, rich fruit on the nose. Unctuous and powerful fruit. Slightly gritty finish.
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1975 Château d'Yquem Flawed
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Brief notes by this point in the evening. Slightly flawed.
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1950 Château d'Yquem 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
My notes were quite brief by this point in the evening. Lots of spice on nose with plenty of candied fruit as well. Vibrant and bright, lots of energy all the way through to finish. Really interesting and wonderful.
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