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Magnums for Dave

Jean-Georges - New York, NY

Tasted May 14, 2009 by Burgundy Al with 853 views

Introduction

I somehow managed to get an invitation to this wonderful dinner sponsored by Zachys, honoring David Paige. Some really amazing cross-section of mostly magnums, other than a couple of inauthentic magnums of old Bordeaux that weren't served.

Flight 1 (18 notes)

White
1989 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
91 points
From magnum. Surprisingly rich and bright fruit jumps out of the glass. Flavors then show a somewhat greater level of maturity with a combination of medium weight orchard fruit and sous bois earthiness. Finish was less and less fruit, more earthy, but fairly short.
White
1999 Henri Boillot Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
95 points
From magnum. Lush and extravagant fruit on the nose and palate. Incredibly floral nose in that distinct Boillot style. Palate is incredibly rich with flavors of peach, ripe pear and lots of spice. Very alluring and exciting from the first smell through last sip. I would say this is at its peak now, unlikely to get any better.
Red
1985 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
flawed
Slightly corked.
Red
1996 Henri Jayer Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cros Parantoux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
98 points
From magnum. Amazingly ripe fruit on the nose - buckets of wild strawberry and raspberry, with some discernible oak-driven spice on nose. Palate shows massive, muscular fruit concentration, unfolding slowly from start-to-finish, as well as with more time in glass. While this does have a touch of New World heat, its incredible acidity and minerality show its pedigree. Amazing licorice, clove and other spice box components come out over time on finish. I tried to keep this wine in glass all night.
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Red
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
From magnum. Dense black fruit to start with lots of meaty, powerful spice. Smoky black fruit on the palate with massive structure. Great flavors emerge in different layers unfolding as the wine opened up - chocolate, spices of roast meat, black cherry and dried cherry. Got more and more powerful with more time in glass. Hold to 2015, 2020 or later.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1990 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
96 points
Deep, rich peach and apricot on nose, continuing on through to the palate. Great honey, caramel nectar-like flavors with some really impressive candied lemon peel. Huge and massive fruit, but balanced at the same time. Impressive acidity extends the finish of really great wine into a long, great wine.
Red
1990 Château Montrose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
96 points
From magnum. Massive black cherry and black currant on the nose with exotic spice. Same ripe fruits on the palate with alluring, opulent spice. Incredible fruit concentration and density but still complete balanced throughout. This evolves over a full minutes from something massive and primary into a very sensual, exotic wine. I look forward to revisiting this wine from time-to-time over the next two decades.
Red
1986 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
86 points
From magnum. Highly structured and tannic without the fruit to support that structure. Perhaps/ hopefully not a completely representative bottle.
Red
1981 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
90 points
From magnum. Dark fruit with some good meaty spice on the nose. Still quite primary for its age with good density and power. But this didn't show much complexity near the end, and only had a moderate length.
White
2005 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
91 points
Ripe fruit on the nose with some oak that stands out a bit today. Ripe peach and apricot start out on the palate, starts out with intensity but the fruit shortens while the acidity starts taking over from the middle through the finish.
Red
1924 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
91 points
From magnum. Amazingly fresh and lively for its age. Good remaining black fruit with charming secondary, particularly on the nose. Very elegant overall.
Red
1958 Château Latour Grand Vin France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
From magnum. Good nose of secondary character with cedar and tobacco. Fruit mostly gone at first on the palate, giving it a slightly harsh start. Some power and balance emerged in the middle and finish.
Red
1955 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
95 points
From magnum. Really great combination of mostly secondary character with still vibrant fruit. Powerful, dense and great concentration with sensational cigar box aromatics. Great finish with plenty of evolving spice and sous bois.
Red
1947 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
From magnum. Impressive aromas that showed very elegant mushroom character. Really charming flavors and spice, with a slightly muddled finish.
Red - Fortified
1927 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
My notes were brief at this point in the evening. Good aromas and flavors, but not the nuance and complexity we hoped for from great old Port.
Red - Fortified
1948 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
92 points
My notes were quite brief at this point in the evening. Sweet, rich fruit on the nose. Unctuous and powerful fruit. Slightly gritty finish.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1975 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
flawed
Brief notes by this point in the evening. Slightly flawed.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1950 Château d'Yquem France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
94 points
My notes were quite brief by this point in the evening. Lots of spice on nose with plenty of candied fruit as well. Vibrant and bright, lots of energy all the way through to finish. Really interesting and wonderful.
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