EWG Dealer's Choice

Some of the East-Side Wine Group for a casual outing on the holiday weekend. We made it a simple theme of 'bring something drinking well' for those of us who had no extended holiday weekend plans. Nothing really stood out for most of us. Lots of good wines but nothing that made us take notice which is a surprise with all the good labels on the table. A wide range of styles and none of them turned up horrible either though there were some in styles that would have kept them from being loved by some on their best days.

• 1983 Schloss Schönborn Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spätlese

  Germany, Rheingau

  The cork look very new so this was probably recorked or bottled recently. A whiff of mustiness lead me to think there might be TCA but this seemed to fade and the wine was still very expressive in aroma and flavor. Gregg and Robert immediately thought the same so there may have been something mild. Lots of stone fruit and apple character in an expressive way. Very lean and clean yet substantial in fruit still. Very nice despite the TCA concerns. The wine had faded later on so it is surely in its window.

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• 2007 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  I'm surprised to see another note on this wine by me in June as it is quite different from this tasting. This tasting was different from what I've come to expect from an Aubert Chard anyways. Nose of saline and lemon custard. Light bodied without the richness I've come to expect from these wines making it almost elegant. Almost as the finish was cleft with a touch of heat. Other tasters claimed they noticed a lot of oak but again, this didn't strike me as being strongly oaked as they normally do. I have to say I liked the lighter body of this even if it didn't come together in total.

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• 1990 Domaine Bernard Delagrange Volnay

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay

  This bottle was much better than the last. Aromas of earthy mushrooms above black cherry and pepper. Lengthy palate if not complex. Lean and hard with strong acidity and tannin still. Iron like minerals and pepper keep it interesting. Good.

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• 1990 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Terrific classic Bordeaux nose of tobacco and green peppers with some sweet florals thrown in. Nicely balanced with medium tannin still hanging around. Clean character. The caveat would be that this was somewhat thin surprisingly. It left it very light bodied for a Bordeaux. That would make me say drink now. I tracked this in my glass for over an hour with consistent results. Good.

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• 2006 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Decanted about two hours prior to serving. Somewhat tight nose initially it does open up with some green stems among sweet, floral dark fruits. I couldn't get that much out of the palate in expression as it was mostly closed to me. The very clean finish stood out behind somewhat soft fruit. Showed better than my last couple go arounds but I think this still needs rest. The green stems are the one pause.

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• 2002 Talley Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosemary's Vineyard

  USA, California, Central Coast, Arroyo Grande Valley

  Dark complex nose with a good dose of brett that starts taking over. Very nice palate feel with the dark fruit actually still seeming young. The brett is present here also which really drags this down. The level is high enough that it over powers the expression of the wine unfortunately as there seems to be something very nice underneath.

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• 2007 Aubert Pinot Noir UV Vineyard

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast

  Mostly an expression of candied fruit. There is a sense of baked fruit and some heat on the nose. No mistaking the style.

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• 2007 Tyler Pinot Noir La Encantada

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  Big fruited nose. Nicely Santa Rita Hills in character with a light greenness to keep the cranberry and cherry fruit from being overly dominant. There is a touch of heat but not overly big or candied. Solid.

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• 2007 Paul Lato Pinot Noir Sine Cera Fiddlestix Vineyard

  USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills

  Nice nose, typical of the region's Pinots. Clean and lighter bodied than expected with a touch of tartness. Nice.

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• 2003 Switchback Ridge Merlot Peterson Family Vineyard

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Very ripe, raisiny, sweet fruited nose. Very ripe fruited palate with brown sugar mixed in. Open finish with heat. Nothing like a Bordeaux variety.

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• 2007 Ippolito Cirò Classico Superiore Colli del Mancuso Riserva

  Italy, Calabria, Cirò Classico Superiore

  Fresh young fruited nose like ripe apples. Almost like carbonic maceration. Clean and lean with very light tannin. Somewhat short of fresh and light in style.

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• 2002 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese **

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Very pretty. The sugar is nearly integrated. Powerful but not big. Lots of apple flavors.
  Last glass taken home and tried the next night. Some diesel coming through and the fruit has gotten fatter with some tartness kicking up. I'd say leave this be for at least a few more years.

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