Pre WWS 2012 GJE dinner at Devero Ristorante - 85 La Las, 09 DRC VR and etc

We have arranged a dinner with a few friends who are also the member of Grand Jury Europeen prior to traveling to Villa D’Este in lake como for World Wine Symposium 2012. Devero Ristorante is the main restaurant at Devero hotel which is located in outskirts of Milan. The hotel is near the highway and has absolutely nothing to do outside but the rooms are very modern and minimal not unlike Park Hyatt. The restaurant space is beautifully minimalist once again reminding you a Park Hyatt. I had the pleasure of having a few dishes that the chef Enrico Bartolini prepared in the past and he is one of the most talented chefs. His dishes are classic and flavorful yet modern and inventive. We had a tasting menu where Enrico was discussing with us what the next course will be. It was clearly the best meal of the trip by wide margin. Perhaps it is the economy but the restaurant was not full. I was so envious of my Milanese friends for having such a jewel.

• 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  This is perhaps the second and third best bottles, perhaps the best being the first from my cellar. Surprisingly delicate and beautiful mineral expression. Pear and white fruits and mineral. Perfectly precise. Exceptinal.

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• 1989 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant 95 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant

  Classic mature chenin expression of petrol, lanolin, wax, lemon oil, apple peel, baked apple and honey. Oil yet airy palate, bright acidity and long finish. Perfectly matured and drinking beautifully.

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• 1985 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet

  This is a quintisential example of why the provenance matters. Coming from a cool cellar en magnum format. Slow development has resulted in additional unexpected complexity. A hint of sesame that I typically find in Leflaive, lemon, complex expression of yellow fruits, almost cookie, honey, smoke and a tough of sea salt. Beautiful fresh palate and despite slightly lacking acidity, lovely medium finish. It is drinking more like a premier cru. A great educational experience.

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• 1981 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune 93 Points

  France, Alsace

  Rather delicate despite apple tart like slightly over matured nose. Fully matured complex nose displaying caramel, a hint of petrol, apricot, smoke and ginger. Medium body wine that is drinking beautifully. Another wine with the great provenance speaking through.

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• 1978 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia Soprana 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  The young sommelier thought the wine was flawed. IMO, this is a perfectly find matured Barolo. In all fairness there is a hint of Madeira as the end note but definitely forgiving. Strong truffle note, caramel, cocoa, prune and cappuccino. Soft warm round palate and the tannins are completely resolved. Lovely wine but at the end of the plateau and will not improve.

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• 1961 Château Léoville Las Cases 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  I have noticed some expecting the 61 LLC would be great based on the vintage but not so based on my experience. This is at best mediocre wine. However this is the best example of the 61 LLC by far. Fully matured, some red fruits, cedar, caramel and eucalyptus. Beautiful silky palate and fully resolved tannins. Lovely wine, usually sub 90 wine for me per a dozen also bottle drank awhile back but this is a truly exceptional bottle. Once again, coming from an European cellar.

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• 1959 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste Bottled by McMullen's of Hertford 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  I was afraid that this may not show well due to the travel shock but not so. As usual, impressive dark and intense color. Fully matured but still fresh and expressive, a hint of VA, cedar, caramel, dry red fruits and sap. Despite being a 50+ year old, opulent and generous fruit expression, bright acidity and still noticeable tannins. Lovely wine.

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It is better to be lucky than good.

• 1983 Château Palmer 95 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  Laurent decide to serve the wine blind. As Bill K likes to say, it is better to be lucky than good. Initially thinking the 83 Chave, cedar, cherry and mineral I am thinking. With time, it tastes more and more like a left bank Bordeaux. Laurent informs us that it is from 1983. Fresh, red fruits, merlot like jammy expression, floral and perfume. Soft, round and silky palate. It somehow reminds me either Chateau Margaux or Palmer but seems softer and feminine so I call Chateau Palmer. Lovely wine.

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• 1985 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 99 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  My second bottle of the evening and another bottle that nicely overcome the travel shock. Essence of blackberries, tapenade, smoked meat, lavvender and garrique. Excellent concentration, sweet fruits, bright acidity, mineral and nicely integrated tannins. Very youthful and expressive bottle. With time, a bit more smoke, bacon and wild flowers. Perfectly hedonistic yet seamless beauty.

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• 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Ordered off the list, another absolutely hedonistic wine. Mixed puree of the ripest raspberry and blackberry with a hint of cassis intensity, vosne spice, cassis and sap. Opulent fruits, extremely sweet impression and nicely integrated tannins. Drinking beautifully obviously with very primary fruits. Absolutely delicious. This is a great example of absurdity in using the 100 scale. If I were a critic tasting from barrel, it would have been extremely difficult to rate this wine 95 due to the greatness/reputation of the other DRC 09s no matter how incredibly this wine is showing at the moment. Certainly there are a lot of 97-98 point wines that will not provide no where near the same level of drinking pleasure.

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• NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  This must be a recent disgorgement as the expression is extra fresh even for NV Krug brut. Lemon, lemon zest, apple and brioche. Fresh palate with bright acidity. A nice way to end the evening.

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Whenever we organize GJE member dinners, we somehow ending up having so much fun. Laurent V., my good friend, one of the best tasters I know, always becomes a great comedian towards to the end of the evening despite his serious nature. It was a great dinner with great wines and more importantly with great friends!