Visiting Domaine Moreau-Naudet

Chablis, Burgundy, France
Tasted Thursday, September 6, 2012 by Antti with 1,083 views

Introduction

The last visit of our Chablis day was at Domaine Moreau-Naudet. The current proprietor is Stéphane Moreau who kindly welcomed us. The domaine was a bit hard to find for me as the main gate was closed (IIRC), but we received help from a local construction worker, who guided us to the destination through a garage door. We were greeted by Stéphane, his family and two friendly big dogs. We were taken straight to the cellars where we tasted through the range with a couple of more-aged treats.

The domaine is in kind of an up-and-coming-phase. Was very much unknown a couple of years ago, but now gaining a lot of favorable press. It's a relatively small one, focusing very much on quality. Viticulture and winemaking methods are very organic and manual labour-intensive. Everything (even the Petit Chablis) is hand-harvested, the yields are very low, fermentation by natural yeast and elevage mainly in large old oak. Many of the wines tasted were from 2009 vintage, which is not among my favorite years. They were among the best 09s I've tasted. I can very much recommend trying wines from this Domaine.

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 2010 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Petit Chablis

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

    Just what I look for in a Petit Chablis. Light, citrusy, mineral and vibrant. Not very complex but very, very delicious!

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  • 2010 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis

    France, Burgundy, Chablis

    Quite similar to Petit Chablis in style, just with added body and dimension. Still very delicious and ready to drink already. I don't know if it's the biodynamic viticulture or what but these basic wines of Moreau-Naudet are very nice and delicious, just a joy to drink. Highly recommended and just another wine indicating the magnificience of the 2010 vintage.

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  • 2009 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Large left bank Premier Cru, The site was clay-ish (IIRC) and perhaps not quite up to the standard of other Moreau-Naudet parcels. Very much different in character to 2010s tasted just before, warm and ripe stone fruits. Nice and enjoyable but maybe not just quite as structured as I hoped. Neat, and for short-term drinking.

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  • 2009 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montmains

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Another left bank Premier Cru, this time a bit south of the Vaillons, just southwest of the town. As often, also now I prefer this climat to Vaillons. More serious, edgy and mineral, with seaside aromas. Well structured and able to age in the cellar. Good stuff.

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  • 2009 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Forêts is a sub-climat of Montmains, and perhaps the best site on the left-bank, made famous by Dauvissat (who is also a big influence for Stéphane Moreau). M-N's parcel is right next to Dauvissat's with similar vine age (50 years). Very intense aromas of citrus fruits and minerals. Elegant, concentrated, balanced, saline character, made to last time (which can't be soid for most 09s). Among the very best 2009 Chablis's I've tasted.

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  • 2009 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    0,6 ha parcel planted in 1978. 30% elevated in old oak. The 2009 is showing, this is not exactly a typical Valmur. Ripeness and richness is very much on the fore, and this could perhaps even pass for a wine of more southern origin. Ripe stone fruits, mineral impression and a light touch of wood spice. Quite accessible in the mouth already: It's not flabby, but still a bit atypical for Valmur as the structure isn't that steely. But hey, it's 09 and there's nothing wrong in letting the vintage show it's character. It's a very good wine, but perhaps not one for the long haul. (BTW: Allen Meadows thinks this has good long-term potential, what do I know!).

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  • 2005 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Tasted a bit after the 2009 version of the same wine. To my knowledge, these two vintages are not totally dissimilar so perhaps one could expect the 09 to be something like this in 4 years: Absolutely charming and already a bit evolved nose, giving complex fruit character and interesting minerality. Whereas 09 still feels a bit unsettled, this is in a beautiful state right now. Well balanced and very delicious right now!

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  • 1983 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    No clear oxidation. Still alive and behind all the dust there's an interesting nutty character to be found. The structure has obviously mellowed at this age and greatest pleasure is found in the bouquet. Very nice.

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  • 1976 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montmains

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    No clear oxidation. Somewhat similar to '83 Valmur tasted just before, but this time the character is more mushroomy and forest floor-like. Perhaps a bit more vibrant than the Valmur. A nice treat!

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