2010 White Burgundy from North to South

Beltramo's, Menlo Park
Tasted Saturday, January 5, 2013 by drwine2001 with 299 views

Flight 1 (9 Notes)

  • 2010 Domaine Servin Chablis Les Pargues

    France, Burgundy, Chablis

    Chablis nose of iodine, gunflint and sea breeze. Light but another layer of flesh atop this lithe core. Some underripe citrus and then a penetrating core of acidity that expands all the way back to your molars. Refreshingly brisk and salty. Marvelous village wine.

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  • 2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Immediately riper nose than the Servin with herbs and lime. Medium weight, excellent sense of glycerine and similar citrus fruit, but a rush of acidity and stone that goes to the back of the palate and tightens the finishing impression. A wine showing both the generosity of Vaillons and the structure of the vintage. I'm really glad I own a few bottles of this; they should be (in fact, are) attractive young but then hold well for another 6 to 8 years.

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  • 2010 Faiveley Mercurey Clos Rochette Blanc

    France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Mercurey

    Lemon and wood toast aromatics. Fatter style, subdued, underripe pineapple fruit and lower acidity in the context of the other wines tasted. Woody, resiny finish gives it a slightly gritty, inelegant feel. There is a lot to it for a wine at this level, but the oak is bothersome.

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  • 2010 Domaine Leflaive Mâcon-Verzé

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Verzé

    Very inviting mix of flowers, ripe orange, and chalk. Elegant entry but rich, ripe orange oil notes. Just a touch of wood. Excellent structure and strongly mineral finish. Deliciously bright fruit. This is pretty exceptional for a Macon. I really like its restraint despite its bold, assertive flavors.

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  • 2010 J.A. Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé Les Ménétrières Cuvée Hors-Classe

    France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé

    Very different profile than the Leflaive-sweet lemon and toast. It also develops white flowers with air. Rich, much rounder, creamier and downplayed fruit compared to the former wine. Lower acidity, little minerality and the oak asserts itself, making the finish astringent at this point. Very good material here, but the wood treatment is too heavy for my taste.

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  • 2010 Henri Boillot Meursault

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Floral, citric, oaky nose. Medium to full bodied. Woody base, some nice spice, nuttiness and citrus timidly poke through. Adequate acidity. This is very Meursault, but the wood dulls the wine somewhat.

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  • 2010 Domaine Latour-Giraud Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Beautiful nose of flint, smoke and lemon. Not a big wine but harmonious and subtle with lively acidity, early complexity and lemony fruit that gains momentum as it rolls over the tongue. Great feel and balance, supple already but this should develop gorgeously. I'm not usually a big partisan of Puligny but thought this was a pretty stunning example.

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  • 2010 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Sulfur makes the nose a bit jarring. Large scaled and mouthfilling. Not at all about the fruit, which is very much underneath right now. Some wood, powerful acidity. Serious, backward and not at all well integrated at present. The sulfur returns at the end to make it feel hard and unyielding. This has a lot to it and may turn out to be really good and quite silky, but it is incredibly difficult to read today. Hold and/or decant before trying.

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  • 2010 Château de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Fresh cut flowers and lactic tones-beautiful nose! Light and airy, especially on the heels of the huge Fontaine-Gagnard La Romanee. Incredibly complex and great inner mouth perfume for such a young wine. Delicate, fine, subtle, completely dry, not at all fruit driven. I loved this and got a gut feeling that it could be very special. Probably for the intermediate term, though, rather than burying it for a decade.

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Closing

What a great flight of wines to show the quality of this vintage for a whole range of subregions all the way from Chablis to Macon. Not a bad wine in the group. I can only imagine how great the big boys from the Cote de Beaune might be. Very exciting tasting.

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