2010 Burgundies Blind

Lavandou
Tasted Friday, February 22, 2013 by Keith Levenberg with 552 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Flight 2 (4 Notes)

  • 2010 Domaine Dublère Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Poured blind. We had a ringer from Rhys in the lineup and I guessed this was it right off the bat, with its bold, grippy fruit and a spine that seemed reminiscent of a whole cluster treatment -- oops. I was absolutely shocked to see this revealed as the Dublere Taillepieds because the 2009 seemed so empty -- this is the total opposite. The aroma was soft and perfumed, but the fruit on the palate is seriously dense. I'd be curious to try this again outside of a tasting context.

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  • 2010 Domaine Stephane Magnien Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Woodsy scents, not really oak barrels but maybe a little brambly, a little sawdusty. I didn't like that latter aspect, which seemed to surface on the palate too, which was also cool with an almost minty leafiness. This was sparsely concentrated relative to the rest of the flight and maybe even the whole night's lineup. I had included a bargain VDP pinot noir as a ringer and was afraid it might be this wine and that it'd get written off as "well, whaddya expect..." but (fortunately? unfortunately?) it turned out to be one of the 1er crus.

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  • 2010 Louis Jadot Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Not as expressive on the nose as some, but the scents it has seem deep. It starts out showcasing a bit of root beer-like oak, but it's not strongly stamped and seems to absorb and disappear in the glass -- while that's happening the fruit seems to get crunchier in texture with a more floral, rosy perfume. And while it's initially on the pliant side it seems to pick up more solidity over the course of the glass too.

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  • 2010 Domaine Camus-Bruchon & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Pretty. Very pure and vibrant berry fruit that almost seemed reminiscent of Beaujolais, but softer and more sheer. The tannin tightens up on the back end.

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Flight 3 (4 Notes)

  • 2010 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Very primary - pure beries, almost sticky in its grip although without coming across fat. I didn't get any oak, which is a good sign given the new regime here, but I couldn't get a read on anything beyond the fruit, either.

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  • 2010 P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Slightly more restrained than the wine before it, which turned out to be the Faiveley Cazetiers, but it's still richly fruited with a kind of cigar-box smokiness going on. I have some of these so I'll have to have a bottle by itself to get a better read on it, but it's nice to have another solid Ile producer.

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  • 2002 Serafin Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Poured blind. With the exception of the California ringer, this was by far the ripest wine of the night, and in fact not far off from the Cali. Of course, it was the only grand cru. Still, I couldn't get a read on anything here except the rich, ripe fruit and a touch of cinnamon on the nose.

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  • 2010 Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

    Poured blind. Maybe my favorite of the night. I wasn't sure whether this was one of the Rugiens or the Ile des Vergelesses, but the stoniness that seems characteristic of both terroirs was certainly a feature here and made it one of the only wines where I was able to discern a soil signature under the primary veneer.

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