Dinner with Paul Goldschmidt, the proprietor of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay at Ripple
Ripple Restaurant in DC
Tasted Friday, April 19, 2013 by dcwino with 1,221 views
Introduction
Paul Goldschmidt, the owner of Chateau Vray Croix de Gay (Pomerol), Chateau Le Prieure (St Emillion) and Chateau Siaurac (Lalande de Pomerol) was visiting DC so we got together at Ripple for a nice dinner. Unfortunately Paul’s train from New York had a major delay and he was only able to join after 10pm when we already finished our dinner. Despite having to take a taxi from Baltimore, Paul was in good spirit to introduce his wines from 2010 and 2012.
For me the 12 is a vintage where Cabernet Sauvignon was not achieved phenolic maturity which resulted in a bit of green notes. Haut Brion has the highest % of Merlot in the GV in this vintage. La Mission also has very high % of Merlot. Of course there are a number of Chateaus who still made great wines like Palmer and Margaux but even some of the classified growth from northern Medoc produced uninspiring and unenergetic wines.
The highlight of the night for me was the 78 Cantemerle which showed beautifully. I bet this would have been an uninspiring wine without much concentration that displayed a lot of green when young. Bob whose opinion I trust and respect thought that the wine was done and need to drunk up in 1988. However, the bottle was showing beautifully.
This made me to think about not achieving phenolic ripeness. In case of Bordeaux as well as in Loire, the green adds complexity and freshness with time make the wine more interesting without being monolithic. For my palate, this style of wines will never achieve the highest ratings as they tend to lack concentration and sweetness. Nevertheless they will be extremely enjoyable especially with food.
At the end of the night Paul poured the 12 Le Prieure and Fombrauge. The Fombrauge is easy to appreciate even at this early stage with ripe fruits, sweet and silky palate and nice integrated tannins. Le Prieure was fresher and showed more structure. If tasted blind at this stage, I would definitely prefer the Fombrauge but Le Prieure will be more interesting with at least ten years of cellaring. It was an interesting exercise.
Flight 1 - Champagne (2 Notes)
Flight 2 - White Burgundy (2 Notes)
The 11 Dauvissat 1er crus have been major disappointment. The 02 Jacques Prieur was too oak, considering the 02 vintage, it was a poor decision, IMO.
Flight 3 - Red Burgundy (1 Note)
This is drinking incredibly well.
Flight 4 - Two matured Bordeaux (2 Notes)
Two exceptional wines with complete opposite style.
Flight 5 - 70 Frist Growth Bordeaux (2 Notes)
The 70 Latour was terribly corked but the Haut Brion was singing.
Flight 6 - Unico (1 Note)
This is a hedonistic wine.
Flight 7 - Chateau Siaurac (3 Notes)
Flight 8 - Château Vray Croix de Gay (2 Notes)
Flight 9 - Château Le Prieure (2 Notes)
Closing
A few folks couldn’t make it and we ended up with seven winos including Paul. For me, six is the ideal number for a wine dinner where the pour can be generous and everyone can converse as a group. It was a wonderful educational evening.
2002 Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 91 Points
France, Champagne
Very sweet, white fruits, fresh apples and flint. Fine mousse, ripe sweet fruits and airy. This particular bottle seems not too terribly complex.
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NV Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Champagne Blanc de Blancs 90 Points
France, Champagne
White fruits, airy, graphite, mineral and smoke. Incredibly fine mousse, air almost evaporate once touching the palate, medium acidity. Seems a bit simple.
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