Gevrey 1er Cru 99s @ Chez Bruce (overflow table)

Chez Bruce, London
Tasted Wednesday, June 12, 2013 by SimonG with 642 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Various nibbles

  • 1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Filling out, far richer on the nose than previously. Nicely mineral and persistent. Elegant but gaining weight. Very good indeed. Top **** but pushing ****1/2

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  • 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Vet full rich nose, all vanilla with just a touch of crab apple.mquite full and rich, more weight through the mid-palate. A little hampered by the Parmesan biscuits but good, I liked this more than most around the downstairs table, but the CH is showing more class today. ****

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Cran and lobster royale with tomato jelly, creme fraiche and caviar

  • 2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Wonderful, quite rich Meursault nose without being overblown. Rich and nutty cut through with precision and minerality. A touch of citrus. Very elegant and showing its class. ****

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  • 2004 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Mineral. A little cheesy initially, though this blows off. A fine chalky texture. Surprisingly light. Very elegant. Lacking in substance but bright and elegant. Shows more classically wit air. Lovely Chablis but for me it's not GC. ***

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Anjou pigeon with celeriac and hazelnut millefeuille, sweetbreads and girolles

  • 1999 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Dark. Rich on the nose. A denseness here. Very meaty and dark fruited. Muscle. Less bright on the palate, but polished and a lovely fruit upfront and to a lesser extent on the finish, but a little two dimensional through the mid-palate currently. ****

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  • 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    A different wine. Lighter, fragrant, an ethereal quality here. Sweet, bright red fruit and a smidgen of vanilla. Bright and transparent. Sweet-fruited, beautifully round. Long and persistent. Seductive. Maybe a slight flightiness and lack of substance through the late mid-palate to finish, but... ****

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

Fillet of veal with bourgignon garnish, truffled pomme daupine and new season's carrots

  • 1999 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Curious how the mice in my old cellar all but destroyed the labels of these, but left the village wine (same bin) untouched. A lovely density and darkness to the fruit. In its own right it's serious, rich, deep and lovely, but it doesn't have the sparkle and the extra level of complexity that the Rousseau shows currently. ****

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  • 1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Denser than the Cazetiers. Darker too. A good thwack of oak but it's well hidden. A 'look at me' quality. Poise, elegance, beauty, coupled with with and intelligence. Beauty in Chanel rather than the Cazetier's prettiness in a floaty summer dress. A clear notch above a bottle of this a month or two back. *****. (95, pushing 96)

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Flight 5 (2 Notes)

Fribourg croque monsieur with pata negra ham, gem and walnut oil

  • 1999 Bernard Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Very dark in the glass. Very dense. Makes the Clair Cazetiers seem a bit wimpy. Dark dense nose, but there's an elegance and freshness coming through on the top notes. Big, dense, dark fruited. A big thwack of tannin on the finish. Dense. Certainly impressive. A muscular athlete rather than anything prettier or more elegant. It may age gracefully though. Time heals. A burg for Phil W at the moment! *(***)

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  • 1999 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Corbeaux Vieilles Vignes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    A brighter mid ruby. Very serious nose. Dense and plush with line and elegance. A ark red-fruited density. Showing well but this needs time. Very serious though. Could be a real star. Currently ***(*1/2) but pushing *****

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Flight 6 (1 Note)

Warm peach clafoutis with toasted almond and amaretto ice cream

  • 1975 Château Rieussec 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Dark amber. Butterscotch and barley sugar nose. A lot drier on the palate. Rich, a touch of botrytis. One to drink on its own rather than with pudding. A richness but the sugar has largely been consumed leaving it with more than a hint of the medicinal. Not my style. ***

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