CNY Lo Hei at Alex's

We gathered for our annual CNY Lo Hei at Alex's, with Jerming joining us for the first time. The theme was supposed to be "Horse year" wines to match the Chinese horoscope, but some people either did not get the memo or ignored it completely - I will leave it to you to spot which wines were on theme. Wines were blind and BYO as always, but we somehow managed to end up with a nice symmetry on the line-up, especially with a trio of nice Aussie Cabs from around the continent.

• 2002 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  A good wine, but in quite an awkward stage at the moment - this was neither youthful nor matured, and came across as needed more age to develop completely. The nose was almost Burgundy-like, with chalky mineral notes alongside honey and apples and kumquat aromas, with just a touch of guava speaking off Sauvignon Blanc. There was something a bit oxidative in there somewhere, with a faint hint of soy sauce that got me a bit worried. Thankfully, the palate seemed completely devoid of any such tones. Here, the wine had good weight and depth wed to tons of acidity streaming through its more citrus flavours of lemons, limes and green apples on a nice, minerally base. There was good staying power on the finish, which had an almost sticky texture as it coated the back-palate with more of that chalky minerality. I just found the wine a bit less than the sum of its parts though, coming across a bit tight and one-dimensional. In fact, it was only when we drank if with some top-shell clams that it really came alive. I would really wait another 3-4 years more on the evidence of this bottle. It is a good wine though.

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• 2005 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 92 Points

  France, Alsace

  I have been lucky enough to drink this twice in the space of a few months, and this bottle very much confirmed the positive impressions I had from the previous outing. If anything though, itwas rather more forward and expressive this time round. Indeed, I found the nose unusually ripe for a CFE, with a light drizzle of petrol scents over initially tight notes of lemons and mineral that opened up into a pretty floral sweetness with nice orange blossoms scents around the sides. The palate too seemed weightier than the last bottle, coming across unusually round and ripe, with fruitier notes of sweet lemons married to critus yuzu and kumquat peel notes and a very orangey midpalate. Where the bottles were very similar though was the lighter feel of the wine, with it coming across less solidly built and substantial than on the greatest vintages, but still having a decent depth for all that. The fleshy fruit then receded at the finish to show-off a nicely steely core, with more restrained grapefruit tones wrapped around a long, lacy tail of lovely mineral. A surprisingly pleasing, forward CFE, yet one that has the bones to age nicely over the medium term. This was very good.

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• 2002 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  A nice wine, but it needs a lot more time yet. At the moment, it is probably more impressive than enjoyable. The nose was already very complex and developed, with sweet cherries and flowers mingling with deep notes of damp earth and meat, and spice and some herbal, brambly notes, and then just a little fringe of oak - a very rich, layered bouquet. Unfortunately, the palate has a long way to go before catching up with that nose. Though fresh and lively, it was really tightly wound. It was all flowers and silk on the surface, with pure cherries on the attack flattering to deceive with a pleasant richness. However, was a real steely, tightly wound, muscular core beneath that - the proverbial iron fist, velvet glove - with Roumier's typical sense of extraction making itself felt. It was only after 2 hours in the decanter that the base of the wine started filling up slowly with air, with lots of fragrant spice leading the way at the finish. Even then, there was always a sense of tightness and firm tannins about it. Saying all that though, this was impeccably balanced and had some semblance of elegance throughout. This clearly needs lots and lots of time yet though. I would be tempted to say leave it aside for at least 8-10 more years. It certainly has the depth, balance and structure to last.

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• 2002 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Corton-Le Rognet 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Good but not great - this came across very young, as if it was just starting to take a few tentative steps towards developing some maturity. The nose had quite a layer of funky, barnyard notes to it, before rather tight notes of cherries and earth with some spicy hints started coming out. The palate was quite tight too, barely giving anything beyond a few stubborn notes of dark cherry over a base of meat and spice and more of those funky, earthy notes. It had an almost musky wilted flower accent on the finish. All very tight and a little one-dimensional at the moment. I do like the depth and balance on this though. It was very much a classic 2002 and quite a classic Corton. Quite full-bodied, but tightly wound and very structured, with a good underlying balance that will allow it to age well. Needs a lot more time yet - I would leave it aside until at least 2018-2020.

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• 2011 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  I last tried this from barrel a few years back, and I am glad to say that it seems to be living up to its early promise. Like the 2002 Roumier Les Cras though, this was unusually muscular for a Chambolle, particularly for a Les Amoureuses. Rather tight when first opened, but an hour in the decanter revealed an expressive nose of black cherries and rose petals drifting over a fragrant landscape of earth and toasty spice and bramble. There was something rather sweet about it, with a whiff of rose syrup that made a nod towards the Oregon Pinot that came before this. The palate, however, was pure Burgundy, with savoury notes of brambly earth underlying still rather tightly wound flavours of black cherries and blueberries laced with floaty notes of roses, menthol and mint. I liked the juicy acidity on this and the rustle of fine, silky tannins on the attack and midpalate. However, while the feel and flavours of the wine were quite feminine, there was a real masculine structure beneath that, with the tannins hardening up and giving a good chewiness alongside a nicely mouthwatering freshness at the finish. This is still a baby and needs a lot of time yet; I do like what was in the glass though. Give it 6-7 years more at least, and it should be a very nice wine.

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• 2009 Soter Pinot Noir Mineral Springs Ranch 90 Points

  USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Yamhill-Carlton

  I did not quite know what to make of this wine. It was certainly well-made, not paling too much even when put next to a few high-reputation Burgundies. However, there was something a bit soulless about this. I must say that this had no pretensions towards the old world. The nose was a give-away from the get-go, with sweet notes of cherries and orange peel and lots roses and some dried earth - the aromas reminded me a bit of Bandung, a sweet rose syrup and condensed-milk drink that we have in Singapore. The palate echoed the nose quite accurately, again with sweet cherries and roses, this time though with a candy and cola edged to them. High acidity and fine tannins gave the wine a good shape, with a nice balance and structure to it. Unfortunately, while clearly well-crafted and certainly drinkable, this completely failed to move me in any way. I am not sure there is all that much room for improvement with this; it may well get a little better, more complex given a couple more years in the bottle, but I am afraid this just is not what I look for in a Pinot.

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• 2001 Woodlands Cabernet Sauvignon Kevin Reserve 92 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  The first (and youngest) of three pretty good Aussie Cabs, this was the most Bordeaux-like, especially on the nose, with its tobacco and bramble notes laid over savoury-sweet aromas of plums and blackcherries. Quite nice. The palate was still relatively youthful, with chewy tannins and juicy acidity making themselves noticeable as they worked their way through yummy flavours of black cherries and savoury earth. There was a decent depth to this too, all the way into a nice finish, with a dusting of spice and savoury plum powder closed the wine off nicely. Nothing earth-shaking, but this was pretty good even now, and should do even better in a few years time.

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• 1993 Zema Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Family Selection 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra

  Very yummy and at just about the perfect place for drinking now - this was my favourite of the 3 very decent Aussie cabs tonight. Like the 1998 Lake's Folly that came after it, the nose here showed some nail varnish-like VA notes. However, they were rather less obtrusive on this wine, allowing really nice notes of and green herbs, earth and tobacco, and a nice spicy tone to show-up very nicely. It had a lovely, matured palate too, with juicy notes of sweet cassis and blackberries and something savoury in the background that reminded my of tomato beef stew. Still nicely structure by dusty tannins and juicy acidity, it tailed off in a gentle finish of savoury earth and meat, with some spice and Coonawarra menthol and just that little flush of alcohol warmth. Not perfect, but a very enjoyable wine.

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• 1998 Lake's Folly Red Blend 91 Points

  Australia, New South Wales, Hunter Valley

  Pretty nice, but perhaps the weakest of the 3 Cabernets. There was plenty of VA on the nose, with a good whoosh of acetone which sort of distracted one from more pleasant notes of tobacco spice, cassis and stewed tomatoes, with a touch of funky earthiness at the base. The palate was somewhat better. I liked the juicy, chewy feel this still had, with nicely substantial cassis notes wedded to savoury, almost salty accents of earth and damp leaves. Quite yummy. Decent finish too, with a little spicy twist. A bit less well-integrated, less polished than either the Margaret River or Coonawarra, but enjoyable nonetheless. This probably needs a bit more time yet - I would give it 2-3 years more age at least.

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