United Cellars Grand Cru Burgundy tasting

Harbour 220/L15 131 Macquarie Street
Tasted Tuesday, September 15, 2015 by chatters with 469 views

Introduction

So here I am dragging myself along to United Cellars Grand Cru Burgundy tasting. Quite civilised without massive numbers so I got to spend some time with the wine. This year they were doing a four country offering with Burgundy joined by Australia, New Zealand and the United States.

Flight 1 - Bracket one - France (8 Notes)

Hmm. More than a few stand outs here. And, with the names and classifications on show, that's not really that much of a surprise. What was a surprise was how much I didn't enjoy the Ponsot.

  • 2008 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    tiny pour. Muted red currant and sweet spice, with time the beginnings of autumn leaves and forest floor. In the mouth there is a lot more going on, red berry fruit that sours slightly, leather, earth, green stalky notes here as well, slightly burry tannins, it's quite broad and long. Hmm. I still think it could do with some time.

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  • 2008 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Clos Vougeot

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    tiny pour. Red over black berries and cherry, spice jumps out of the glass; clove with very slight nutmeg. Slight cedar. Ripe but still earthy, polished. Young without being awkwardly youthful. Great nose. On the palate the fruit has a dense quality, the wine is juicy but taut and, despite a little breadth on the mid palate, quite linear with spicy notes joining on the long finish. Good.

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  • 2008 Domaine de la Vougeraie Bonnes Mares

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru

    slightly funky, slightly smoke, almost stalky, polished oak, cedar notes, cream, black over red fruit. Lots going on but it's all quite in balance - if you can have a balanced nose that is. More of the same on the palate but things here are a bit more out of whack; a sourness to the fruit, a slightly too drying note to the muted but chalky tannin, still impressively long but, at this juncture, not for me. Will it improve with time?

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  • 2008 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Funky, slightly musty and, perhaps, oxidised, perhaps some red berry fruit. Sour on the plate. I can't believe it is meant to smell and taste like this. FLAW.

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  • 2012 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    polished oak, cream, vanilla, caramel, over biscuit and cherry, the coffee, toast and some slightly stalky notes. More of the same on the palate, juicy, balanced, complex, lots going on , too young though, still quite puppy fat on the nose and palate, carries long with spice notes and slightly cherry stone, silky tannins. Difficult to spit. Very good. Second taste more than reinforces this. Superb in fact.

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  • 2012 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    A cornucopia of autumn berries, a bonfire in a dew laden garden, a cold pre-winter day, kicking leaves, a tin of cake spice by an oak chopping board, clove, cedar, Crazy nose. On the palate the wine is fresh, juicy, loose limited, the berries are ripe without being overtly sweet, tannins are silky and gossamer. Long, ethereal, young, but glorious. Second tasting reinforces this but the tannins are a bit more robust on this bottle.

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  • 2012 Philippe Pacalet Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Argillas

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    aromas of wood ash, biscuits, with slightly confected lozenge red fruit, sweet spice and slight coffee. In the mouth the wine is fresh, juicy acidity helps things along, fruit flavours are quite muted, tannins are a little drying, it's unbalanced and short despite it's relative complexity. Bit lost after the Corton Bressandes.

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  • 2008 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

    Went back later to try the second bottle. On the nose the initial farty and stalky character blow o to reveal quite a brooding beast with dark berry compote, slightly earthy notes, cedar and a general sense of being quite closed. In the mouth the wine is juicy, again slightly funky and oxidised. Rich though, long and dense. Not for me though. And certainly not for AUD 950 a bottle.

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Flight 2 - Bracket two - USA (2 Notes)

Only the two here and I must confess to rather liking the rambunctiousness of the William Selyem which was a surprise.

  • 2012 La Crema Pinot Noir Monterey

    USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey

    slightly reductive and funky notes, red currant, slight meaty notes cedar…Muted on the palate with spliced but slightly sour red currant backed by more spice, alcohol heat and bitter coffee tasting drying tannins. Nah.

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  • 2012 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Bucher Vineyard

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    Boo Yah! Pronounced aromas of vanilla, sweet spice, ripe red cherry and black berry, some chocolate notes here as well as cedar. On the palate the wine is exceedingly rich, fruit forward and (with the reputation of the producer I know I shouldn't be surprised but) very well balanced. Tannins are present but controlled as is the acidity which makes what I expected to be a cloying, disappointing, jammy cacophony of oral mayhem fresh and eminently drinkable and enjoyable. I rather like it. Does that make me a bad person?

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Flight 3 - Bracket three - New Zealand (7 Notes)

After the success of the Central Otago tasting I went to a few weeks ago I expected a little more from these. I'd probably single out the Rippons as the most disappointing on this occasion. The Felton Road and the Escarpment were okayish.

  • 2014 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Moonlight Race

    New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

    On the nose the initial impression is if sweet spice and jubey black berry fruit that is quite confected and sweet shop. There is some spice and oak underpinning this. The fruit is equally jubey on the palate with some slight menthol notes, barely discernible silky tannins. Pretty in a fruit shop kind of way but defo not for me.

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  • 2013 Fromm Pinot Noir Clayvin Vineyard

    New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

    Slightly stalky notes over ripe cherry menthol. Slightly earthiness and some sweet spice and a touch of ethanol. The fruit is a little less rip on the palate with moderately drying talc textured tannins and a kind of bitter coffee note on the medium plus length finish. Meh.

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  • 2014 Felton Road Pinot Noir Cornish Point

    New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago

    Medium minus intensity aromas of stalky, smoky red berries, polished oaks, slight aniseed also, with time, a touch of maraschino cherry and mocha. More o the same on the palate, refreshingly juicy acidity, tannins are silky, tiny touch of alcohol warmth on the long finish. there is a touch of youthful awkwardness which pushes the balance slightly out of whack but this is nice and will improve with 2-5 years under it's belt.

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  • 2012 Rippon Pinot Noir Tinker's Field

    New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Lake Wanaka

    Slightly confected red fruit, farty notes - wild ferment? - cedar, cream….on the palate a well made and instantly forgettable wine, balanced, long, does lack complexity for me though.
    Footnote - apparently this is AUD 145 a bottle which is simply preposterous.

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  • 2012 Rippon Pinot Noir Emma's block

    New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Lake Wanaka

    Farty and funky aromas with strawberry, clove, cedar, spicy in fact, very slight stalkiness and coffee and also a touch of earthiness. In the mouth the wine has tangy fruit, stalks intrude a bit though with spice. Fruit doesn't carry past quite dense and textured tannins. Lacking a bit of length and, well, interest. Young vines perhaps? Not for me.

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  • 2013 Dog Point Vineyard Pinot Noir

    New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough

    slightly stalks, cranberry, confected raspberry and strawberry sweet spice, quite fruit forward. A slight bitter coffee note joins the fruit on the palate which sours slightly. Tannins are tongue coating and milky. Not bad but not for me. A little short as well.

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  • 2013 Escarpment Pinot Noir

    New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough

    Aromas of fresh, crunchy strawberry, cream, slightly earthy notes, polished oak and, with time, cherry and sweet spices. In the mouth the wine is juicy with flavours of cherry and strawberry fruit and then flour textured tannins, all carry reasonably long with some alcohol warmth, coffee note and sweet spice. nice enough but the coffee 'bitters' the finish a bit too much for me. Perhaps time will soften this. Hmm.

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Flight 4 - Bracket four - Australia (7 Notes)

the Bass Phillip was exceedingly disappointing. The Giant Steps surprisingly good. Yabby Lake was okay.

  • 2013 Mount Mary Pinot Noir

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

    Funky and farty, confected though as well, red berry fruits, disjoined notes, doesn't encourage consumption. In the mouth it's juicy but the fruit is sour and there are stalky almost burnt notes. A lick of lactic mouth coating drying tannins close up the shop. Ugh.

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  • 2013 Curly Flat Pinot Noir

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges

    Stalky, polished oak, slight cherry fruit cedar, sweet spice, a touch of floral lift here as well. In the mouth the wine is fresh and juicy but the fruit is lightly confected and the tannins a touch biter. It's also a bit short for me. Nah.

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  • 2014 Bindi Pinot Noir Original Vineyard

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges

    Cedar, leather (?), stalks dominate muted strawberry and cream notes. In the mouth the wine is awful - spiky acidity accompanies a cloying residual sweetness. Completely out of whack. Can't get this out of my mouth quick enough.

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  • 2013 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium

    Australia, Victoria, Gippsland

    tiny pour. What? Stalks?? Lots of stalks??? I don't remember encountering such prevalent stalks on Bass Phillip before. Also cedar, mud, muted red currant fruit. Bitter coffee, red currant and stalky tannins on he palate. Deeply disappointing.

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  • 2013 By Farr Pinot Noir "Farrside"

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong

    Slightly stalky bonfire notes over red berries and spice; touch of cinnamon today, earth and cedar. More of the same on the plate with juicy acidity Not massively long but well balanced. Okay

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  • 2014 Yabby Lake Vineyard Pinot Noir Single Vineyard

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula

    Struck match! First on the night. This presides over biscuit slightly farty wild ferment and red berry fruit, oddly attractive and compelling. In the mouth the wine lacks a touch of acidity for me but otherwise pleasant enough, quite long and reasonably well balanced (taking into account that slight lack of freshness)

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  • 2013 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Sexton Vineyard

    Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley

    Red tending to black berry fruit, very slight stalkiness and polished oak but reined in, sweet spice, balanced nose. The wine is juicy, fleshy a little sour coarseness to the fruit but otherwise it's rather good. Still young, tannins are a little chalky but the fruit persists long. Very nice.

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Closing

well, there you have it. A couple of the pours were a bit stingy (so sub 5ml) which meant, in the huge glass that they gave us, the wine got a little lost. I tried to encourage them but, alas, to no avail. My bracket order is the order I tasted, rather than the order the room was laid out - they had it Australia, NZ, France, US. The Australians showed very poorly today, for me. Overall though another good but pricy tasting from United Cellars.

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