Bonneau du Martray Dinner with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière
RPM Italian - Chicago IL
Tasted Sunday, October 25, 2015 by Burgundy Al with 420 views
Introduction
Jean-Charles was in Chicago for a brief visit and we were able to schedule a small dinner for a few Martray fans. I brought a few older bottles of his domaine's Corton-Charlemagne from my cellar, most notably from 1989 and 1992 for the group to enjoy.
1996 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses 92 Points
France, Champagne
Maturing orchard fruit with lots of power and concentration. I like the spice quite a bit here. While i like this wine a lot, I liked it better a few years back.
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1989 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
This wine might keep getting better and better with more time in the cellar. Superb concentration with balance. This will last.
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1992 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
This seems to keep improving with more time in the cellar. Floral and spice driven intensity with moderately mature orchard fruit. Rich and powerful consistency.
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1996 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Best this wine has performed in a decade. Really tasty with mature apple and some peach hints. Some sweet background spice.
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2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Apple and pear on nose and palate.Moderate weight, savory spice. In its peak drinking window, and best for the medium-term through 2020.
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2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Open an hour+ before serving. Still an austere powerhouse with huge fruit teasing us with its potential. Texturally powerful as well. Better in another year or three.
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1966 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Open approx one hour before serving, which I think helped diffuse and soften some dirty notes. Nice balance of mature black fruit and earth with overall moderate intensity and length. Nice in glass for almost an hour, but much less interesting after that.
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2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Very elegantly styled Corton with lots of red and black cherry, subtle spice throughout. Moderate structure in style that is accessible now, just barely entering its drinking window.
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2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Clos Rognet 92 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Black and red cherry aromas with lush fruit and muscular spice. Same flavors in general, also forward and engaging. Moderate density. At a good place now, much better than I recall from a few years back.
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2003 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Clos Rognet 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Open an hour+ before serving. This started very lush and forward, seemingly ripe and simple. More restraint and texture emerged with more air and more time in glass. More cellar time may well pay off for this 2003.
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1984 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Popped-and-poured. Much better than I'd ever expect, this came across as mature, ripe and slightly sweet, just without much nuance. Less interesting when revisited an hour+ later.
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