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Bonneau du Martray Dinner with Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière

RPM Italian - Chicago IL

Tasted October 25, 2015 by Burgundy Al with 418 views

Introduction

Jean-Charles was in Chicago for a brief visit and we were able to schedule a small dinner for a few Martray fans. I brought a few older bottles of his domaine's Corton-Charlemagne from my cellar, most notably from 1989 and 1992 for the group to enjoy.

Flight 1 (11 notes)

White - Sparkling
1996 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses France, Champagne
92 points
Maturing orchard fruit with lots of power and concentration. I like the spice quite a bit here. While i like this wine a lot, I liked it better a few years back.
White
1989 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
94 points
This wine might keep getting better and better with more time in the cellar. Superb concentration with balance. This will last.
White
1992 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
93 points
This seems to keep improving with more time in the cellar. Floral and spice driven intensity with moderately mature orchard fruit. Rich and powerful consistency.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
1996 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
90 points
Best this wine has performed in a decade. Really tasty with mature apple and some peach hints. Some sweet background spice.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2004 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
92 points
Apple and pear on nose and palate.Moderate weight, savory spice. In its peak drinking window, and best for the medium-term through 2020.
White
2008 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
93 points
Open an hour+ before serving. Still an austere powerhouse with huge fruit teasing us with its potential. Texturally powerful as well. Better in another year or three.
Red
1966 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
90 points
Open approx one hour before serving, which I think helped diffuse and soften some dirty notes. Nice balance of mature black fruit and earth with overall moderate intensity and length. Nice in glass for almost an hour, but much less interesting after that.
Red
2002 Bonneau du Martray Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
91 points
Very elegantly styled Corton with lots of red and black cherry, subtle spice throughout. Moderate structure in style that is accessible now, just barely entering its drinking window.
Red
2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Clos Rognet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
92 points
Black and red cherry aromas with lush fruit and muscular spice. Same flavors in general, also forward and engaging. Moderate density. At a good place now, much better than I recall from a few years back.
Red
2003 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Corton-Clos Rognet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
91 points
Open an hour+ before serving. This started very lush and forward, seemingly ripe and simple. More restraint and texture emerged with more air and more time in glass. More cellar time may well pay off for this 2003.
White
1984 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Popped-and-poured. Much better than I'd ever expect, this came across as mature, ripe and slightly sweet, just without much nuance. Less interesting when revisited an hour+ later.
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