A Tour of Champagne: Is It All About the Village or the Brand?

Wine and Food Foundation Tasting Room Austin TX
Tasted Wednesday, December 9, 2015 by Winetex with 540 views

Introduction

The idea here was to see if the brands are the key or the location. It's a bit inconclusive because even the Grand Marques have attention to detail during their winemaking that I found very interesting on our trip to Champagne. In other words if you say you are only into "Grower Champagnes" you might be limiting yourself as the percentage of actual "Growers" using ONLY their own grapes is very small. The great majority of Champagne producers have some of their own vineyards and contracts with other vineyards to round out their cuvees. In looking at a map of Champagne you can see why because there are areas where Pinot Noir is the dominant variety and others where Chardonnay rules. The other varieties including Pinot Meunier are a lower percentage of the total harvest.

For my personal tastes I generally find the champagnes with a high degree of Pinot Meunier on the coarse side. It might be an earthiness or other but I can usually pick them out of a line-up for this characteristic.

In all a fine way to de-stress on a Wednesday afternoon. Thanks to Mark Rashap, CWE for the nice tour through my favorite wine region.

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • NV François Labet Crémant de Bourgogne Brut 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Crémant de Bourgogne

    Serviceable bubbles under $15. It is a nice apertif wine and more correct than others in its price range. I've bought this before and would consider it again.

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  • NV Perrier-Jouët Champagne Grand Brut 87 Points

    France, Champagne

    This was surprisingly delicate and rather lightweight. I haven't tried this Champagne in a long time. Not really to my taste as it seemed a bit sweet. Not much to recommend here especially for the price. Wine 2 of 8. 40% Pinot Noir/40% Pinot Meunier/20% Chadonnay

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  • NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    From magnum (as it should be... ) Balanced and sophisticated Champagne with yeasty aromas - not obvious and needs food to shine. Medium weight. 60% Pinot Noir/40% Chardonnay. Chartogne Taillet is one of my favorite Champagne producers. Wine 3 of 8.

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  • NV L. Aubry Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut 89 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Prominent red apple flavors in a fruit forward style. Quaffable. Disgorged Jan 2015. Wine 4 of 8. Aubry is one of the Champagne producers to use all of the varieties in some of their cuvees. This one had significant Pinot Meunier.

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  • NV Varnier-Fanniere Champagne Grand Cru Brut 90 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Wine 5 of 8 and ding, ding we have a winner for my palate. This had good fruit flavors but added in minerality. 100% Chardonnay goodness. Disgorged in 2011. I would buy this.

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  • 2005 Jean-Pierre Marniquet Champagne Tradition Brut 88 Points

    France, Champagne

    Not a lot going on in this wine. Not rated but this bottle on this day 87-88. It seemed very young and acidic so it probably has a long life ahead of it. Wine 6 of 8. This wine is no-dosage but the producer does not want to label it that way.

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  • 1995 Jean-Pierre Marniquet Champagne Prestige Millésimé 92 Points

    France, Champagne

    Very interesting medium-weight Champagne. Tasted as bottle 7 of 8. This was acidic and nicely integrated but still young. Perhaps this producer keeping it on the lies for so long contributes to this? It is also no-dosage but the producer apparently does not want to label it as such and goes with "Brut". Slight smoke and mushroom flavors. At about $75 it might be a cellar candidate but there are others in this price range that might age better.

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  • NV Louis de Sacy Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Nope not for me. As the Closing Wine - #8 of 8. Too much odd funk (dirty socks?) in this budget Champagne. Others liked it so it might be just me.

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Closing

An interesting tour through Champagne. Cheers and Happy Holidays!

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